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2013 RT Limited. Neither my frunk or seat will unlatch from the key or the switch on the dash with Park. The key seems to turn different when I push it down and turn to either seat or frunk. Does the key activate a solenoid and if so where would it be located. I've tried everything. TIA
No, when you push in the key, the tumbler in the lock assembly engages with a mechanism that actuates cables. One direction pulls a cable that unlocks the frunk, the other unlocks the seat. But tension on either one of those latches can cause binding. So, what typically is successful is to push down on the seat or frunk lid while trying to unlatch. Give the seat a little mechanical agitation, also. You've seen how long that latch pin is. It can get bound in the latch if the seat shifts. Does the key feel unusually hard to turn or easy to turn? That will provide a hint if the cables have failed, although I doubt both would have failed together at the same time.
I had same issue 2014 rt Dealer changed key for trunk as well. If you need gas long thin screw driver and don"t damage seat. It can be done but needs replacement
Thanks guys. When I turn the key either way, trunk or seat, do not get the same resistance that I did before. Could both cables go at the same time. And any suggestions on getting the key cylinder out to replace cables.
You would need to check to see if the arm where the cables are attached to the ignition is operating. For both to go out is odd but if the arm is not being engaged this could be the problem. Most you see one or the other and how to open in that case. I would go for the igniton ..... :thumbup:
You can see where the cables are connected to the underside of the switch by removing the side panels and looking in from the side. There's a round end on the cable that fits into a slot, and the cable is pulled up by the switch assembly to actuate the latch at the other end. Not really any kind of arm under there to make it easy to see. At least from the side, you could tell if the switch is operating the cables and if the problem is at the other end. Sorry, but the only experience I've had in that area was when the glove box cable came off under there. Luckily I was able to re-attached it from the side and silicon it into place so it wouldn't come off again. To change out the entire switch, the manual calls for removing the whole top console assembly as step 1. Not fun. Just don't know if there's any easier way to do this. Someone else might. My sense is that it's an internal problem with the switch mechanics that is not engaging when you push in on the switch...or it's just plain broken. I trust you've given it a good amount of mechanical agitation and perhaps some lube inside? Remember, a switch changeout is going to require new keys and everything that goes with that.
Ya, I just replaced my seat cable two weeks ago:banghead: what fun that was, will not do it myself again. You would think there would be a easy way to lube the cables that hook up to the switch and what a hellish place to get to, It's one of those I can see it but cannt get my fingers on it!! Like the boys have already said your problem could be the key switch and wouldnt I love to see how they get that out!! Good luck you can use a long screwdriver to unlatch the seat and if you think it's the cable do your home work on the site and look into the emergeny cable a lot of the guys have put on both of those latches could save you a lot of skin. :gaah:
Switch is bad. When you press the key in and feel no resistance, it is not working. Replace.
I'm guessing that you are " out of warranty " …. if so re-placement is going to be expensive, even if you can do it yourself ….. I have put emergency " pull cables " on mine ( one month after I bought it - the ignition switch is only strong enough to start the bike ) ….. It's pretty easy … I was putting them Spyders as a vendor @ events ….. good luck …. Mike :ohyea:Quote:
Originally Posted by cptjam
For what it is worth, I bought a '14 ST used and the previous owner had replaced the pins for both the seat and trunk with solid stainless pins of the same length, thread and diameter as the latch pins. I don't know where he got them, or if he made them. You can't lock anything up with them in, which could be seen as either blessing or curse I suppose.
It occurs to me you could replace the pins a lot cheaper and easier than repairing the cables, but there is the downside of losing the ability to lock up.
Best wishes,
Rob
I can understand the Seat PIN change - your body will keep it shut …. however that won't work for the Frunk, if the New Pin doesn't have the re-leaf cut into in, the latch Can't hold it shut …... ….. jmho …. Mike :ohyea:Quote:
Originally Posted by RideOn
Well, I rode the ST around for two weeks with the straight pins and never had a problem either way. The frunk stayed shut - air pressure I suppose - and never lifted at all in motion. Since I live in the city, though, I did put the original pins with the cutouts back in so I could lock up and not need to worry about it.
A couple of magnets would hold it shut. Way cheaper than the lock assembly.
Thanks all. Got the seat open and just going to hold the latch open. The funk is a different story. Got it open but now will not close and latch. The latch will close when I do it manually but when I close it, will not latch.
The answer to your issue is in my Post #9 ….. or Not …. your choice ….. Mike :ohyea:Quote:
Originally Posted by rwyma