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My wife and I purchased a 2018 Spyder RT in December. We are loving riding it in Florida, but will need to trailer it up to North Carolina in the summer. I have a 6 X 12 foot utility trailer that it will fit on, but I don't think the 4 foot long ramp/tailgate will work. Does anyone here have experience with this issue? I am thinking maybe a 6 foo ramp, or separate aluminum ramps of longer length. Thanks in advance for any info. I love learning from others with experience.
Congratulations on the RT! I have the same question so I’ll be following this thread. But I need it to travel from cold NY to sunny Florida. Lol. I’m looking at a Haulmark now, heard bad things about Diamond, but also read some bad reviews on Haulmark axles. What brand trailer do u own? I really want a used IronHorse but I’ve been looking since July w no luck.
Good luck, I’m sure someone here will be able to help you.
:agree: :congrats: on your "Christmas Present"! :thumbup:
If you can scare up a couple of 6 foot ramps: they should work fine in conjunction with the tailgate.
They'll pick your front wheels up early, and reduce the changes of dragging your bike's nose...:shocked:
The tailgate should be fine for getting the rear wheels up and into the trailer.
If you are brave you could unhitch the trailer and use a block or jack to raise the tongue and a chain to keep it from going higher. Ride the Spyder up on it stopping right at the balance point. Hitch the trailer and then run the Spyder on forward to get good weight distribution. Just take it easy and you'll be OK. I've loaded an ATV this way!
How do you know? Have you tried it? 2 things you can do; 1) lift the nose of the trailer up so the 4' ramp will work 2) use 6' ramps mounted 2/3 the way up the tailgate so there's less of an angle to the ramp(s)Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayvis
Don't walk away from Diamond trailers, run!Run fast and run far!After 2yrs and less than 1000mi I had to replace all lights because it got so rusty ground was lost.Lights were wrecked removing from being so rusted.Tires needed to be replaced during same time frame due to severe checking on both sides!No way 2yrs parked in the shade when not used caused that.3yr now and paint is bubbling off.Looks to me like they paint without ANY prep!I use 2- 4' 2x10s.Stop bike so nose is about 2' from ramp and lay out ramps, drive up!This is with a Triton enclosed double sled trailer.I don't know of any rig that has a long enough ramp for an RT to drive right up.Happy travels!
I use the razor http://razortrailers.com/ ride on and off. very easy, pulls great! Highly recommend them.
Others have covered most of your issues ….. However ALUMINUM ramps are going to cost you a fortune …. just get some 2X8 pressure treated planks or Fir if you can find it ….. I'll address two other things - if you screw down TWO 10Ft 2x4's in the trailer the Spyder will follow where you screw them down, and NO where else ….. I ( and many others here ) use one or more heavy duty RACHET STRAPS placed over and in-line with one or more tires … Very High end Car transporter's use this method to secure expensive cars in their trailers …. nothing touches any paint or breakable parts of your Spyder , plus it's a super fast way to do it ….. Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayvis
We use a 78" x 10' Aluma trailer with a bi-fold door and two 2' x 6' boards. This works very well.
A picture would help. Also, what is the deck height of the trailer - that matters a great deal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayvis
I made three ramps out of 2x12's and 2x8's. The front wheel ramps are 32 inches long and the center ramp is 26 inches long. All three are about 8-9 inches tall and held together with deck screws. The center ramp has a slot on it so the ramp edge locks into it so the rear wheel can't kick it out when you go up the ramp. The other two are placed under the front wheel locations and hold their positions without any trouble. When loaded, you can either throw them the back of your truck or place them on the trailer deck strapped in place so they do not become unplanned projectiles.
Separate ramps is an option that Ive used. ANother option is look for a driveway with a steeper transition to the street and park so the trailer tires are in the lowest spot. In combination with either, you can also put a couple pieces of 2x6 under the very edge of the ramp...and you can also keep the trailer hooked up and then raise the tongue jack up to help reduce the angle
How about placing oil change ramps under rear tires of truck and driving up on them, while trailer is still attached, thus lowering the rear of the trailer. It should make the rear of trailer low enough to use whatever length ramps to make loading the Spyder easier. The shorter the trailer, the more the effect. I have a 4' x 8' trailer and I'm considering making the rear of it wide enough to accommodate the Spyder's width and loading it backwards. Might hafta remove the windscreen though.
Or do like I did! Pretty much what you're considering. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...o-carry-SpyderQuote:
Originally Posted by Revalden
I have been trailering my Spyders for years. I have a 5 1/2' X 10' aluminum trailer from Tractor Supply with the stock endgate. Don't know the exact length(height) but no issues to load my Spyder... Just drive the Spyder on to the bolted down wheel chocks, strap down and away we go. absolutely no issues with many thousands of miles....
BIG F
Thanks for all the information! The trailer I bought is a Triple Crown. They are made in the USA (in Ocala Florida I believe).
The deck height is about 30 inches I believe (will measure later) It is a 6 X 12. Now I have many good ideas to run with. I like the idea of using wood planks...aluminum is super expensive...
My neighbor had a Spyder that he tried to load onto a utility trailer with a 4 foot ramp. As he went up, the back wheel lifted up and he lost traction. It was not pretty. I am trying to avoid that situation!
A regular coating of Aerospace 303 will protect those tires from the damage caused by UV. I have a 6 X 12 dove tail with a 32 inch ramp and have no problem loading my 2011 RT. The dove tail adds another 24 inches to the incline.
UPDATE! Scored these from a local NAPA store on clearance. Half Price! They were $30 a pop plus tax, so under $100 for all three! Woo Hoo! no more loading worries.
Nice ramps - I need some of those.
I use an Aluma 6810 tilt bed and put an aluminum angle stop for front wheels. It is awesome. Haven’t figured out how to post pictures on here!
I have a 7 x 14 Haulmark that we haul our Spyder with. In fact I hauled it to the Yuma ride in with it. I added a 10" by full width ramp to aid in the transition from ground to door/ramp and that makes it so I don't have jump the edge. I attached it using 3 large hinges so it folds against the trailer back door. It climbs the door/ramp just fine and does not scrape going over the edge. I have marine grade eye bolts #8 thru the lower front shock mounts and the tie down hooks go thru those in the front. I wrap a tie down around the trailer hitch on the Spyder and pull that to keep the tension on the front. Stays solid and does not move.
I have a 5 1/2 X 10 foot aluminum trailer from Tractor Supply that I have toted my Spdyer on for thousands of miles with no issues. I just merely drop the standard endgate and drive my Spyder on to my wheel chocks, strap it down, close the gate and off we go.
BIG F
Thanks! Used the ramps this past weekend. They worked like a charm....Just glad I found them at a reasonable price...Quote:
Originally Posted by al0vely
We've made a single sheet of plywood version of one of these that folds onto the stock ramp for travel.
Sounds kinda like Pegasus did, though we made it a 2ft extension full width of the stock ramp, used the
remainder of the sheet to double up at the hinge line to support the ramp all the way wide.