So in laymans terms ...don't put back any of the 2 red wires and check small red wire for voltage... ground black multi to frame of bike?
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So in laymans terms ...don't put back any of the 2 red wires and check small red wire for voltage... ground black multi to frame of bike?
You are not trying to find out what power is on the solenoid. It is like a heavy duty switch for the large cable from the battery to the starter. What you are trying to find out is if the two large posts, which would normally have the heavy cable attached to them, are opening and closing. In order to make the switch open and close the power is 'applied to/removed from' the smaller wires. To test that you measure the continuity across the two large posts. No power to the small wires, should mean no continuity measured across the large posts. Power applied to the small wires, should mean there is now continuity measured across the large posts. You should hear a definite click when it cycles. There is no reason to have either of the heavy wires hooked to the solenoid. You are only trying to determine if it is opening and closing. When the solenoid is wired to the starter and in the circuit, then it is acting as a switch and the starter case is grounded. Having the starter disconnected (heavy wires not connected to solenoid) will let you test the solenoid without danger of damaging the starter gears or burning up the wiring.
If you find that there is always an open circuit across the two large posts (not very likely), then test the voltage of the small wires.
If you find that there is always continuity from large post to large post, no matter if voltage is applied to the smaller wires or not, that means the solenoid is not functioning as a switch. It is stuck closed and is always a dead short leading from the battery to the starter.
The solenoid points inside the case could have become welded. If that is the case the solenoid is broken and must be replaced. It is pointless to attempt to get it working again. Even if you could break it loose and get it to open and close, the contact points would still be severely pitted and it would not be 100%. There is also a spring inside the case which should open the points when no power is on the electromagnet. If the spring is broken the solenoid is worthless. The case is sealed. The parts inside the case are not repairable. Throw it away and put a new one on.
http://user.pa.net/~kbeitz/Kevin/Tra...s/solenoid.jpg
That is an excellent diagram. Hope the OP understands how it works. I'm not sure how much more layman I could make the explanation.
yep..replaced starter solenoid and all is right..Thanx Guys!!!
Thank you for letting us know the outcome. Sounds like it was an inexpensive fix if you did it yourself.
Good deal.............
Starter solenoids are like big relays. I've had them stick. Sometimes smacking them w/ a hammer will unstick them. It's only temporary but usually it'll get you home.
:yes::yes::yes::clap::clap: good to hear sorry all other troubles in between, hopefully saved you from a fail somewhere on the road like out of state trip:banghead::barf: &. Good idea to go ahead & document all you can for any possible future troubles. So you can share with a tech if need be. It was a unusual fluke & worth the notes. :thumbup:
Well the brake fail screen came on again!! Im not going to even mess with it ..taking it to the dealer..hope its a quik fix..have to wait another week for an appointment
Well just got back from dealer...They said air in system, worn rear brake pad ..they reset system , changed rear brake pads, replaced crush washers, changed and bled brake fluid..at a cost of $511 OUCH!! Live and Learn...
No :dontknow:everything was checked all good now:thumbup:
Tried the above reset procedure several times without any success. Will try the battery disconnect next to see if that will help.