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Looking ahead :yikes:... ..2014 RTL (in this case), anyone know of a temporary fix to keep the frame parts from bottoming out if the air bag has failed while on a trip? "Somehow" placing "something" in "someplace" to hold the frame components up (?). :dontknow::dontknow:
Not sure you can ride at all, if the bag completely fails. Any experience with this :banghead:
Thanks for input.
If the air bag fails due to a leak in the bag, some folks have put Slime in the bag. If the pump system fails, there's always the Schrader valve.
If the air bag has a leak, it's probably going to be small, at least when it starts. It's pretty much protected from getting a large severe leak ( like a tire can ) .. so imho, although it may be annoying, adding Air from a personal compressor is at best an in-convenience. I honestly can't think of anything that can be used to temporarily re-place what the Air Bag provides . I would also love to know what a fix might be Mike :ohyea:Quote:
Originally Posted by teninospyder
If the compressor fails you can manually air up the bag if you unplug the the dump valve...Or you can run the schrader valve line from under the seat directly to the air bag and manually air it up...Both the above tasks require require removing the right side panels...Roadster Renovation has coil spring spacers (2) that can be installed in the rear shock coil spring that in most cases will you allow the bike to be ridden with a passenger (depending on their weight)...If you install these spacers before any air ride problems you can usually ride with your air ride setting one bar lower than your normal setting...larryd
Quote:
Originally Posted by larryd
Thanks for the reply Larryd. Just to be clear, my concern is if the air bag fails for some reason severely, and air in from the shrader valve just leaks out again...i.e., a BIG air bag leak, whatcan you do to ride it home say 200 miles? Like everyone else I am not expecting this soon or ever. However... . just me overthinking an issue "again" :roflblack:
Hey Ray. A few years ago, we had to ride the entire Blue Ridge Parkway, and back to OH, with no air in the bag. Two up. There's nothing unsafe about it. But, you will feel the rear suspension bottom out over the big bumps. There's a big rubber bumper on the shock shaft, so it’s not as if there’s metal to metal contact. So, you won't destroy anything as long as you take it easy over bumps. If you're flying straight and level, the frame is still suspended by the coil spring. Worse thing is that the rough ride is kind of uncomfortable to your passenger.
We also experienced a leak (one of the fittings) that dumped all the air and would not allow air to be pumped in as it would leak as quickly. Rode it for several 100's of miles until we could get it fixed. Rough ride, but no damage. We just took bumps slower.
I believe Doc Humpreys (Roadster Renovations) put slime in his air bag and worked until he made permanent repairs.
A more permanent fix for 2014 RT rear bladder failure, would be to install a new M2 rear shock; or new/used Fox, Wilbur, or Elka rear RT shock with a Single 700# 2 1/4" I.D. 8 inch long Eibach spring. Your 2014 RT rear shock with many miles on it probably needs replacing by now. The 700# single spring on new rear shock will hold both driver & passenger without air in bladder. JimQuote:
Originally Posted by teninospyder
The base RT has never had an onboard compressor and I know of several people who took delivery of theirs with no air in the bag, for some of them it was thousands of miles later befire they found out they had no air. It will be a rough ride and you would have a hard time getting a jack under the rear of the bike but that’s it.
Thanks Snowbelt Spyder:thumbup: That's the input I was looking for. :yes: We've experienced that exact thing when our compressor system failed - TWICE :banghead: At those times I never asked anyone if the bottoming out was a serious ride problem or not, and we did feel the spyder was bottoming out at multiple times.:yikes: and.....in each case we did make it home :yes::yes: Thanks for refreshing me on my own experience.:thumbup::roflblack:Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder
Ray, Yep my compressor failed on a long ride. It would deflate in about an hour. We just stopped every hour and kept filling it up with our battery powered air supply or at gas stops.
Since I'm a heavy dude myself (275 - 290 lbs) I think I'm gonna follow spyderyderjim's suggestion for my 2013. Even with a working airbag system, I'd rather have the full support.
I wonder how the M2.Shocks ( a new SL Sponsor) compare to the Elka's etc?
Like DGoebel, I'm a hefty guy myself. I'm also getting a bit on the old side, and suffering from air bag compressor failure. My question is "can anyone share any insights on the Baker Built air compressor system?" I have viewed both Dr J's and Doc Humphreys youtube videos on compressor replacement. They both seem a bit more than I am up to at this stage of my life but the Baker Built system appears to be something I can handle. Any help? Thanks
:popcorn: Though I did disconnect the compressor, by pass the pressure valve, and run airline straight from the airbag top fitting direct to the schrader valve and now, the bag holds air.
I think the compressor / adjustment fail more than the actual bag itself and simple is working better., Though I'm going to try some custom M2 shocks to see if the airbag is just a memory.
:agree: I just did the same thing. Wife I left Maine this morning for Nova Scotia. I checked the air pressure tonight and it was at 81.5 lbs. Good to go. If you loose the compressor and you're on a trip, and your air bag is ok, you can remove the RELAY that controls the ACS system. On my 2011 it is R1. This will keep your system from bleeding off air. Bruce
I have thought of a single spring eliminating the airbag but wonder how a 700# spring would act with a solo rider. The combined wt. on my machine . 2014 RT . is 300# . I have no compressor. So I wonder how I would calculate a spring rate that would work with solo and two up. Thank you.
motopilgrim, you have a PM...