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Hi all", I went for a ride on my 2010 RT SE5 yesterday and it was a hot day. When ridng slowly it was running rough and then engine stalled. It cut out and was running on 1 cylinder. I read a post here a while ago about the Vacuum hoses on the vtwins sometimes they are cracked or suck air. I think I will need to replace these 2 hoses.
Rehgards Peter
If you have the OEM plug wires I would replace them also as they are known to cause rough running. Get the wires from Suite sponsor Ron
:agree: Plugs and wires, and while your in there vac hoses can not hurt!! And a can of your most favorite fuel system cleaner! For my spyder I like Seafoam. Good luck
ron jons spark plug wires and plug kit. 3mm silicone vacuum hose to replace two vacuum hoses, canisterectomy, and and it wouldnt hurt to take the crankcase vent tube out of the air cleaner. all of this can be done while you have the panels off. these items fixed all of the problems on my 10 rt.
:agree: BajaRon has the iridium plugs and high tension plug wires which work wonders. The vaccum hoses for sure. The only difference I made is I added a cleanable glass fuel filter to the crankcase vent hose. Let us know how these changes work for you. One other thing would be to check the intake manifold for cracks as well.. :thumbup:
Hi Chupaca I replaced the vacuum hoses then went for a ride and the Spyder ran good, I will ride it on a warm day and see what the Spyder does. I will replace the spark plug leads and the plugs and see what that does.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chupaca
Regards Peter
Hi Mate", I rreplaced the vacuum hoses on the spyder went for a ride just today temperature outside cool to cold spyder ran good. I went for a ride on a hot day spyder ran rough at idle and engine stopped, I ordered the Spark plugs and leads to replace and see if that is the issue. I don't understand why the spyder runs rough at idle and engine stops on a hot day but not a cold day. Anyway I replace the plugs and leads then ride it on a hot day and see what happens. I let you know what happens. The symptoms to me after reading in the forum here all describe possible cause ( plugs and plug leads)
Regards Peter
Hi Mate", I got my plugs and leads from BAJARON there is this thermals grease in plastic bag GD100 it is called I don't know what to put it on and there is Super lube in a plastic bag I don't know what to put it on either. Can you help me on where to apply these products
Regards peter
I would PM Ron directly ….. However the " Thermal paste " is for the spark plug threads, …." leads " ???? are those the spark plug wires ??? ….. if so the super lube would go in the plug Boots ….. Mike :ohyea:Quote:
Originally Posted by peterRT
100% correct! Thermal paste on the spark plugs threads. Lube on the spark plug boots to help the plugs wires slip onto the spark plugs.Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
my Ryker Rally does the same thing, at shop now
Hi Guys", replaced the Canam RT with Bajaron spark plug leads and Iridium spark plugs sorted out that the Thermal Grease was for spark plug threads and the other for boots. Went for a ride today and the Spyder ran good even at idle and did not stall, but the real test is to ride it on a 36 degree Celsius day and see what happens. Thanks to all who post here on this forum. It took me over 8 hours to do the job and that is because I have a bit of arthrisis in my fingers,
Regards Peter
The Ignition Wires & Spark Plug set come with instructions giving directions as to where to apply these 2 products. Everyone who answered was correct. A very thin coat of Thermal Paste on the spark plug threads. Liberal application of Dielectric Grease to the inside of the spark plug boots. Do not apply to the Coil Boots.Quote:
Originally Posted by peterRT
Hi BajaRon", all good now job completed and went for a ride. Engine did not cough and splutter did not stall while riding at low speed, did not lose power when accelerating, The guy emailed me the instructions.
Thanks for all the feedback and information on how to do the job
Regards Peter
Hi mate I replaced the Vacuum hoses, BajaRon spark plug wires and iridium plugs, and air filter went for a ride with no issues yet. I go for a ride on a hot day and see what happens. I noticed the difference better acceleration, better slow speed idle, no engine cutting out and running on one cylinder,
I keep posting here with outcome. I go for a 4 hour ride next week and see how she goes,
Regards Peter
Awesome! I am glad it worked out!
Would not hurt to run some SeaFoam or other quality fuel treatment. Especially on a long ride like you have coming up. Dropping a cylinder or a 'Miss Firing' situation can carbon things up in the combustion chamber and valves. Now that things are working properly again. Getting a good dose of fuel treatment can clean things up for you.
I go for a long ride tomorrow and see how the Spyder goes.
Regards Peter
I looked at a friends 2013 ST that bucked and snorted sometimes. Bike had only 900 miles on it, been sitting for 2-3 years in a garage. One time I couldn't even take off, the bike just shuddered bad. I pulled a plug wire off the coil and no change in rough idle - figured maybe the coil, but found a cracked plug (factory!) on right side (of course - PITA to get to). I put Baja Rons set on it and good to go. Those red plug wires are beefy!
Hi guys I went for a 6 hour ride today in cold weather outside temperature was 19 Celsius bike went really good after replacing the spark plugs and spark plug wires with BajaRon products when I stopped the Spyder and then started the engine up again it ran on one clylider for a few seconds then was ok
When the outside temperature is 30 Celsius or above the engine will run rough at idle
Maybe it is a purge valve
The engine runs rough at idle when the outside temp is above 30 Celsius
Maybe needs a canisterectomy
Hi again", well I did the canisterectomy went for a ride start s up smoother now and does not run rough at idle
Hi again guys", today the temperature was 40c 104 degrees Fahrenheit and I went for a ride stopping and starting at traffic light the spyder did not stop or hesitate to move forwards it ran perfectly since canisterectomy,
Regards Peter
Canister-ectomy. Always highly recommended. Numerous benefits. No downside. Easy and cheap to do. Corrects a huge design flaw in the 2008-2012 Spyders.Quote:
Originally Posted by peterRT
Good move!
Pretty sure the problem is heat. On any day but particularly a hot day after a run stick your finger in the fuel tank when its near full. It nearly burns. I find that while moving everything's fine on a hot day but after leaving the bike for 15 minutes or so when I start it and it will stall unless I give it a little throttle and on take off the engine always stumbles and hesitates unless I'm very gentle on the throttle. The clue is that there is no problem if you warm the bike up to operating temperature without riding, switch it off for a few minutes and then take off there is no problem. The fuel tank is exposed to hot air from the engine and exhaust headers while moving. After stopping the tank is exposed to residual heat in the headers which run very close to the tank and heat rising from the cat. The fuel lines will also get hotter. So the idle stalling and stumbling on take off is vaporisation in the fuel lines. I wrapped the headers, stuck more heat shielding to the tank wherever I good get to it and removed the rear 2 plastic guards behind the suspension(not the skid plate) and it has certainly improved it a lot and the seat no longer gets really hot. Fitting a vent kit right now and will de-cat it it in the near future.