Question for someone with experience doing this:
Can the Front Pulley be removed and installed without loosening belt tension?
Shop manual labor is .5 hour for this proceedure. Wondering if there is a short cut to arrive in completing this operation in .5/hour.
No problem, Jack up the rear wheel till tension is off the lower shock bolt, remove the bolt, raise the Jack till the belt is loose enough to remove from front sprocket. Retourqe the front sprocket bolt when finished.
ExcellentQuote:
Originally Posted by Big Arm
Here's how I did it just a short while back.....
With the bike on the floor and the the parking brake set, loosen the front pulley bolt.
Release the parking brake.
Then lift the rear wheel off the floor just enough so you can rotate it as you walk the belt off the rear pulley.
When done with the front pulley, reverse the process to walk the belt back onto the rear pulley.
Lower the bike, set the park brake, torque the front pulley bolt and you're done.
P.S. Lube the splines with Moly Paste - not Moly lube.
All the important details; succinct. I especially like the belt on, brake on, on the ground tightening part -- minimize stress on transmission.Quote:
Originally Posted by RICZ
�� Ordered new pulley and bolt....I have a 2019 F3L built in 2018. Figured that a newer design pulley and higher bolt torque should resolve any future issues......I believe in preventative maintenance. Red dust is starting to show. My trips pulling a trailer are in excess of 1k.
you mean you werent having any problems no rust dust
I retorqued my 2015 at 10,000 miles and now have 21,000 and no problem- I have a spockett and bolt ready .
Yes, red dust is starting to show.
If there is evidence of red dust, the pulley splines have worn. The pulley should be replaced or if reusing, accomplish the LocTite method for reinstallation. If replacing a worn pulley with a new pulley, reassembled wet with Moly Lube or Moly Paste, not Moly based grease.Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerchris1270
Regarding walking the drive belt off the pulley, before accomplishing this, realize that the Spyder uses a carbon fibre type belt and not a Kevlar or other more flexible fibre type belt. Manufacturers are very specific about not walking the tensioned belt off the pulley as fibre damage may occur, rendering the belt as scrap or inducing early failure. Far better to remove the shock bolt if you are set up to do so.
Consider also to lubricate the bolt flange with Moly. While many have posted the increased torque is in reference to better securing the pulley, I differ on this opinion. I suspect that when comparing the early style 2 piece bolt / washer setup to the current large flange bolt, the added friction of the large flanges drag when tightening must be overcome by a higher setting on the torque wrench, otherwise the torque would be erroneously low. Lubricate the bolt flange and use a quality torque wrench. Even consider dropping the torque setting by 5% to account for the reduced drag when torquing.
All the best however you resolve your worn pulley / red dust concerns.
I believe most manufacturers of timing/cogged belts recommend against "walking" the belt off mainly when the pully
has a flange. Neither pulley on the Spyder has a flange, so it really shouldn't be an issue. Done carefully, it shouldn't
be a problem.
Personally I would loosen the the tension, because it may change due to new pulley vs old pulley. Not that big of a
deal, and it would need to be checked anyway, even if you didn't loosen the tension.
Obviously you would have serious concerns walking a tooth belt over a pulley flange.Quote:
Originally Posted by Possible
The concern here is not focused on whether or not the belt can be removed and reinstalled by walking the belt off and on, simply the materials used to make the cords in the belt. Carbon fibre filaments are far less forgiving than other filaments in regards to untypical loads.
The persons endorsing walking the belt off then on have their opinions. Considering the cost of a new belt, plus if the belt fails some distance from home, the risk vs reward of not releasing the tension is up to each person accomplishing the task. Add to this the frugalness of many Spyder owners that post here, the MSRP of cutting corners may not be on sale when you need it.
All the best to BikerChris and Merry Christmas to all of you.
Shop manual calls for loosening tension of belt when removing......
Shop manual labor rate shows .5 hour to replace front pulley. Seems low considering what’s involved.
i have to ask do you let the bike shift down or do you do it
Tension on the belt can be adjusted with a KrickitII (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a coupla 36mm wrenches which also work to get the oil filter off.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_Ewxr7qwqo and a coupla wrenches.
Re my suggestion to walk the belt of the rear pulley....
I did not realize the belt was not Kevlar reinforced. All my experience with belt drives were with Kevlar belts. Good to learn about the Spyder's belts. Thanks.
is it hard to get the pulley off . do you need special tool
They usually just slip off. Have a new bolt, torque wrench and Moly Paste handy.
How's your rear tire? Maybe doing that will "release" the belt. I respectfully disagree with PMK. It's rather easy to loosen the tension of the belt with the "belt tensioner" bolts, like one should do when changing the rear tire. Jack up the bike and the belt should just slip off, no walking required. As with steering tie rods, counting turns can make the restoration of the belt tension easier. Just run them back the same number (index them first so you get the proper clock). And BTW, if you have a belt idler, bunjee it up off the belt before you do anything.
I had to use a large 3 jaw gear puller. It was tight all the way to the end . I could not get the pully to budge at all by hand or pry bars..
It was the lesser of two evils to loosen the belt tension. With the tire up and the tensioners very loose or slack and the main shaft bolt loose, I took a heavy hammer and slammed the rubber of the rear tire forward to take up the tensioner slack.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rattlebars
I also needed a puller to get the pully off. No need to purchase one as most auto parts stores have a free tool rental program. I just went to the closest one. In my case an AutoZone and browed their 3 arm puller.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis in Lodi
By design, the pulley is a slip fit onto the splines. With wear or contamination from particles from the fretting no doubt the pulley can be difficult to remove. The pulley if worn an appreciable amount can also become wedged. But again, by design, it is a slip fit.
Absolutely, you can disagree with my previous comment, I have zero issue with that. The method of loosening the axle, and then counting turns on the adjusters is 110% logical in theory. Enough so that as an early Spyder owner I used this method several times. Unfortunately, the method of counting turns on the adjusters comes up short on realigning the belt based on the requirement to tighten the axle. Can Am / BRP designed one of the worst axle alignment / tensioning setups I have ever had to deal with on a motorcycle. They use cast aluminum two piece axle holders. These split style holders are inserted into the swingarms box tube structure. By design, they are a loose fit. As the axle starts to see feel tension as the nut is tightened, the right side adjuster moves about. Unfortunately, with this happening, and the need for very small incremental adjustments to the right side axle block, in order to obtain correct belt tracking, the likelihood of getting the same position is not good.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rattlebars
Since there is no means to know where the right side adjuster was positioned prior to loosening the axle, you can set the adjuster bolt exactly the same but have belt tracking issues. Then as you work to get the belt tracking correct, each loosening of the axle and subsequent retightening can reposition the adjuster blocks into another position.
So if you plan to loosen the axle, expect to chase your tail a bit to get the belt tracking as it was. The only tip I have, is that of set the tension via the left side adjuster, and the belts tension will hold the axle in position. For the right side adjuster, you need a long block of wood and a BFH. Snug the axle and beat the axle nut forward in hopes of getting it in the same location.
Can Am could have done a much, much better job designing the swingarm and adjusters.
Rattlebars, all the best using the method you link to, I did not watch the video you linked, just my own experience knows only loosen the rear axle if absolutely required.
My 2019 F3L with 6000 mi. Replaced Front pulley with new robust white pulley.
I followed shop manual by backing off belt adjustment screws 4 turns evenly.... allowing belt to be removed.