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Looking at an 2015 F3-S in my area, 3300 miles. Stock except added saddle shad bags, windshield, backrest. SE6.
Starting price around 14K. Seems fair in normal times but don’t think the market supports that right now. What’s a good price for this bike in anyones opinion? I ride a Honda ST1300 now so not in a crank. Thought?
IMHO .... NADA & Blue book & Edmunds generally are higher $$$ than what they are actually selling for on the open market. ...& options and mods are worth ( maybe ) 25%. of orig, cost ..... annnnnnnnnnnnd it's winter in a lot of area's. ... not high selling season..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
Sounds high to me. I paid 13500 for a pristine '16 F3T last April with 1500 mi on it.
Use the blue books as guides only.
With today's economy, selling prices are going to be on the lower side.
Been watching pricing for years. The "magic" price that initiates a sale is usually somewhere between the wholesale/trade-in price and the private sale price. The retail noted, is about $3K to $4K higher than the trade in. I have always thought that to be unrealistic. Good for the dealers, but bad for the "newbies" who do not do their due dilligence.
A really good place to start is our very own for sale by owner section. Most are priced right. Those going for the "gold" usually will have 500 or more looks, but no hits. Most people on the site are well informed about pricing and let the high ones ride.
Farkles count for little to nothing...particularly on a 5 year old machine. You never get your money back on them. Ask me how I know. :roflblack:
Nada Low Retail $10,363; Average Retail $13,598
KBB Trade-in $9,290; Typical Retail $12,815
So, I am hearing the collective wisdom to be between 9.5 to 11.5, at least the successful sales... I figure if I am going to buy used, I don't need to eat the depreciation too much... all about fair price but this is a market thing too.
Start low on any negotiations. You can always go higher. If you give them what they are asking, you may lose a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by dfester007
My first offer usually generates a comment like "you are offering me WHAT"? And...keep that poker face on. If they think you are dying to have it, you will pay for it. :roflblack:
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfester007
I don’t know about it being a negative market right; I talked to a dealer and they are selling like crazy- best year ever. Motorcycling/bicycling being one of the better social distancing activities right now. As a buyer of a 2015 I would need to account for inspections that have or have yet to be done. A lot of people fixate on the miles but if fluids have been in there for 2-5 years it’s probably time to flush and fill- that’s not cheap. Being an F3-s and not a standard I would start at 11.5 and see where that takes you. Good luck.
Do you have any pictures of your 2015 F3-S?
I paid ~$15K for a brand new F3S-SM6 in 2019, so that sounds pretty high to me. One thing to remember is that when people buy accessories, they pay new price and that's what they think they're worth. However, as soon as it's on the bike they're used, and their depreciation is right up there with the bike's.
Late to the game but.....
First, know what you're willing to pay and stick to it. Be willing to walk away. I've walked away from quite a few deals (vehicles and other things) just to get a call from the seller a few days later asking if I was still interested in the item for what I offered. If you walk away, give the seller your contact info. If you still see it for sale a couple weeks later, give the seller another call and reiterate your original offer.
Second, as others have said, start low but not so low that it insults the seller. If he's asking $15k and you feel it's worth $10k AND you're willing to pay $12k, offer $11k. If he balks (and I'm sure he will), ask him for a counter offer. Maybe he'll counter with $14k. Then you come back with $12k and let him know you're not willing to pay more. Unless a seller states his offer is firm, it's not.
A Spyder is worth what someone is willing to pay for it. Sounds easy enough but when anyone starts hitting you with silly book prices especially if they are retail then they should ask for a check from KBB or whatever site they are referring to. I’ve never known the internet to pay for ANYTHING. I’ve sold 3 Spyders so I’ve got a pretty good grasp of how they move but it really depends on the scenario. If you are dealing with someone who has a lien then most of the time they want their payoff which usually means they are buried or upside down. I am personally always willing to take less because the last thing I wanna do is take calls from folks trying to wear me out over few hundred dollars. Low miles on a 5 year old unit doesn’t mean it’s in great shape, every Spyder stands on its own which is why book pricing doesn’t really mean much to me. I will always pay more depending on the unit and records kept detailing the history. Paper trails normally lead to a solid owner who has taken care of the unit. Good luck...