Printable View
Good Morning. I am new to the forum. I have a 2011 Spyder RT and you can feel a miss in the engine at idle, the engine light is on and I retrieved the code for the engine code and it gave me a P018B code. I googled the error codes on this machine and have a 55 page list but this particular code is not in it. It has a P018A code in the list but not a P018B code.
Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
P081B Prestarting relay short to V+
Possible causes.
Blown fuse, damaged or disconnected relay, damaged circuit wires, damaged connectors or damaged ECM output pins, damaged headlamp overrun switch.
Service Actions
Check fuse.
Disconnect prestarting relay.
Measure resistance between terminals 85 and 86 on relay (expected value: 70 to 90 ohms).
Measure resistance between harness connector FB-C4 and ground (expected value > open).
Measure resistance from harness connector: ECMB-C4 to FB-C4 (expected value: < 2 ohms).
I hope this helps
Ok I will try this. Wonder if it will take care of the miss also. Thanks for the info, I will post the results soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by billybovine
Based on the circuit in question, probably won't take care of a miss. When my 998cc started getting a miss I ordered the plug & wire kit from bajaron (sponsor here) off EBay. Wires are way heavier, plugs are iridium fine tip. Miss went away. Also if you haven't you must replace the 3mmID x 5mmOD vacuum lines on the left side at carb. They will crack and cause a miss. Plenty of info here & YouTube.
ok Great...that is good information. I am about to tear the plastic off of it and see what I can find out.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevencovert
Where is the FB-C4 connector and the ECMB-C4 connector?Quote:
Originally Posted by billybovine
Thanks,
I don't have time to look it up. But I will assume that FB is fuse box and ECMB is the engine control module.
May I suggest if you are getting this deep. Get yourself a digital copy of the service and repair manual. Not very expensive. Can be download in a short period of time depending on your internet speed.
Right. This is not a very common code, bluegrass. One post from back in 2013 indicates that the problem was solved by simply replacing the Pre-Starting Relay - which is R2. Relays are in the front fuse box with the fuses. Relay numbers are labeled on the cover. I would do that before I got into removing connectors from the ECM. You don't have to get them through BRP. Folks have gotten them from an auto parts store. A bad relay is much more common than a harness problem, unless you have reason to believe that you've had harness damage. Come to think of it, you could do a quick and dirty check by removing R2 and moving R1 into the R2 position temporarily. They are the same relay type. Your air compressor won't run, but you could see if the code clears. If you don't have the air compressor system and no R1, you can do the same thing with your headlight relay R6...or if you don't want to do any swapping, just get a new relay and eliminate that potential cause.
Spyder Relay
From another Spyder owner:
MasterPro Ignition part BWD REF: R3110 (SMP REF: RY-232) is exactly the same as the relay in our Spyder. This relay can be purchased at Murray’s. We compared the relay in the Spyder with the BWD: R3110. They are identical…including the schematic drawing, as well as the amperage at each terminal/prong.
Rodger at NordRide in Mount Morris, MI says the OEM relay we got at Murray’s is good. He also said that BRP sells this part for about $10.00. Now whether this price is to the dealers or the consumer, I don’t know. With that said, Murray’s sells it for around $9.00.
Seems like the common one is the
Duralast
19271
41-5100
I will see if one of our local auto parts stores has a replacement. Now, after I replace this do I have to clear the code manually or will it clear itself?
Th resistance between terminals 85-86 was 130.2 ohmsQuote:
Originally Posted by billybovine
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluegrass2020
Resistance Hi out of spec, just as it was in that other post. Yep, replace it. The code will clear itself if this is the root cause of the problem. You may have to ride it of awhile, turn it off and remove the key for 10 or 15 minutes and then come back and restart. I know - having to remove the key doesn't make any sense, but there's so much anecdotal evidence out there that it sometimes works, thought I would mention it.Quote:
Originally Posted by bluegrass2020
Just out of curiosity, I checked the ohms on the new relay before installing and it was the same resistance. 132ohmsQuote:
Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder
That IS interesting. And the code? :popcorn:
How old is the battery? If it is on the way out or the connections are not tight, when you are starting the engine, the voltage will be brought down low and you may experience electrically related codes that may in fact not be actual problems. I experienced two codes that popped up when working on my RT last month that went away once the battery was replaced and the bike run for a bit.
As for swapping plugs, wires and vac hoses, I just finished all that up on my bike. Not a fun job, you have to take the bike half apart to access the front cylinder. I documented it here if you are interested, since I didnt see that much out on the web showing what is involved: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ance-on-the-RT