Anyone know how to get to the back of the license plate bolts??
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Anyone know how to get to the back of the license plate bolts??
From the looks of parts fiche 09-Body and Accessories Upper Cargo, which includes the rear fender and rear fender extension, it appears BRP doesn't want you to know. At least that's how I view it. :gaah:
I have not looked but does the strip come off? If so the only way would be to remove the back panel. I had mine off a while back but didn't look for anything like that.
I put my plate on after getting it in the mail. It went on with a couple of screws into the hard plastic mount; no nuts or bolts.
What spyderdave said. The F3T/L requires nuts/bolts. The 2020+ RT doesn't. Just screw the plate to the plastic. Screws not bolts.
It can be done, but you are going to have some scars when you get done. Just installed the license plates on the new F3L for Linda. Several tries, many cuss words, and a big martini when I was finished.
My hands are medium size. You have to stick your hand up between the fender and the tire. Then, start looking for those blankey, blank holes or nuts you have to remove. The working area is sub par, and to small, IMO. And that's no joke. Perhaps the designers of the product will be relegated to changing out license plates for eternity. And that's no joke either. :yes:
Maybe I miss read your post/question. If you want to install a tag simply unscrew the screws that's there. Where the plate mounts is a strip with several threaded holes in it to attach the tag.
Also the op is asking about the 2020 RT L not a F3L which is different I believe.
Again, the F3T/L requires nuts/bolts. The 2020+ RTs do not.
100% agree. We have both and the F3 is a PITAQuote:
Originally Posted by MONK
My question is because my plate trim has very nice American Flag bolt heads with nuts that I would like to put back on instead of the ugly screw heads that are there now.Quote:
Originally Posted by K80Shooter
Then you'll have to wedge your hand behind the rear fender. Have fun with that. May be easier coming up from the bottom instead of from the side.Quote:
Originally Posted by FINFAN3DP
What is the thread size/pitch? If they are just a tad bigger you might can drill and retap the holes, also you could drill out the holes and insert helicoils of the correct size. A little blue locktite will hold the new bolts in place. "Do this at your own risk though"Quote:
Originally Posted by FINFAN3DP
As Monk stated you might be able to get your hand in there but I doubt it. If so just drill the holes out and use your nuts on the back side. Removing the rear panel is doable but it takes a while, if you're going to add any extra lights I would do it all at the same time.
Something like this is what I was thinking about if you know what threads you have. https://www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-In...ts_id=16410701 Once you get the correct size put some thread locker on this piece before you install it permanently.
Not sure the plastic fender is thick enough for a nutsert.Quote:
Originally Posted by K80Shooter
No way would I try a "nutsert" Google that name for more info. I used those in the truck/trailer repair business for many years, they are installed with a sort of a rivet gun which I feel would break the plastic. If the op wants to use his bolts he would have to drill through the plastic anyways then a determination could be made. The ones I posted are only 1/2" long, the screws in my tag are almost that long themselves. If a portion was to go through the back side a little it wouldn't hurt anything IMHO once locked into place.Quote:
Originally Posted by MONK
Again the op can do this or not do this at his option/risk. He asked for options and I feel this is one but that's just me.
Can you use something like this nylon screw holder?
No backside access required.
https://www.amazon.com/Chrome-Licens...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Maybe I used the wrong name. I was referencing the link that you posted. I think that may be too long.Quote:
Originally Posted by K80Shooter