Is my compressor dead?

Noticed on the last ride that we have been bottoming out on somewhat small bumps, especially railroad tracks. So today I popped seat and determined no air in bag. Could not get compressor to kick on, so I added air manually to 40 psi and left for a couple hours and it held. I then started bike and adjusted settings to soft, and the air was released out through the system as it would normally, but then when I adjusted settings back to hard, nothing from the compressor. I have checked the fuse F5 on right side box and it is good.
It appears that the compressor is not working, but wanted to see if there were any other troubleshooting steps people may have for me before I load up and head to dealer.

And to add to the whole issue, my extended warranty ran out on May 20 2019.:sour:

Certain conditions must be met for the compressor to operate.
1. Engine on.
2. Must be in gear. 1st or reverse will do
3. All of the rear compartments must be closed.

Try your test again.

Check the seat switch too.

Thanks for the replies.
Certain conditions must be met for the compressor to operate.
1. Engine on.
2. Must be in gear. 1st or reverse will do
3. All of the rear compartments must be closed.

I had met all the above conditions on first test, but did it again to double check and also checkded the seat switch. It seemed in tact, but I pulled and re-seated.

Same result

Last unplug it and check power going to the compressor. Check your ACS switch too

I copied out of the manual below.

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINES ERROR CODE "MANUAL" REMAINS ACTIVE IN GAUGE 1. Leak in the ACS system. - Check ACS system to detect leak, refer to ACS SYSTEM LEAK TEST. 2. Faulty ACS position sensor or wiring. (Refer to ACS POSITION SENSORfor testing). - Check ACS position sensor signal circuit continuity. - Check ACS position sensor input voltage. - Check ACS position sensor ground circuit continuity. - Perform the ACS position sensor reset with B.U.D.S. 3. Damaged position sensor. - Check ACS position sensor for damage, refer to ACS POSITION SENSOR INSPECTION. REQUESTED SETTING DISPLAY DOES NOT CHANGE IN GAUGE 1. Faulty ACS Switch (CSS) or wiring. - Check ACS switch continuity, refer to ACS SWITCH. - Check ACS switch control circuit, refer to ACS SWITCH. SUSPENSION SETTING CAN NOT BE CHANGED ON VEHICLE 1. Make sure the following requirements are met: - Engine is started. - Parking brake is released. - Gearbox in gear (first or reverse). - Rear storage compartments are closed. 6 rmr2013-035

2. Damaged fuse. - Check F5 fuse in RH fuse box (RFB), refer to POWER DISTRIBUTION AND GROUNDS subsection. 3. Damaged relay. - Check R3 relay (load shedding relay), refer to POWER DISTRIBUTION AND GROUNDS subsection. - Check R4 relay (ACS relay), refer to ACS RELAY (R4). 4. Faulty multifunction gauge control circuits. - Check multifunction gauge control circuit continuity to ACS relay (R4) to (PIN-19). - Check multifunction gauge control circuit continuity to ACS solenoid valve (PIN-18). 5. Faulty ACS compressor or wiring. - Carry out an ACS COMPRESSOR OPERATION TEST. 6. Faulty ACS solenoid valve or wiring. - Carry out an ACS SOLENOID VALVE OPERATION

The compressor normally fails mechanically. You actually might be able to hear it running, but not pumping.

If you determine the compressor has failed, go to YouTube and search for: can am Spyder compressor. I have a video there showing how to replace it. 41 minutes long.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by trikermutha

Check the seat switch too.

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I assume you are talking about the pillion switch. This is commonly repeated but incorrect. Seat switch has no bearing on the air ride.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by billybovine

I assume you are talking about the pillion switch. This is commonly repeated but incorrect. Seat switch has no bearing on the air ride.

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Mr. Billybovine,

You seem pretty well up to speed on most of this stuff, help me set this permanently in my tired old brain.

To my understanding, the pillion switch is to see if there is a second occupant on the Spyder to made nanny adjustments. Is that correct? Stands to reason, if the bike is moving forward under power it will have at least one occupant unless something has gone horribly wrong.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by billybovine

I assume you are talking about the pillion switch. This is commonly repeated but incorrect. Seat switch has no bearing on the air ride.

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You are correct. :bowdown:

It Signals the VCM when the PRS switch is depressed. the VCM applies changes to the control parameters, mainly to reduce maximum allowed lateral acceleration and yaw.

I went back and looked it up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by trikermutha

You are correct. :bowdown:

It Signals the VCM when the PRS switch is depressed. the VCM applies changes to the control parameters, mainly to reduce maximum allowed lateral acceleration and yaw.

I went back and looked it up.

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Trikermutha,

So it only activates with the addition of a rear seat passenger?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by h0gr1der

Trikermutha,

So it only activates with the addition of a rear seat passenger?

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I believe it does as the extra weight/passnger etc plays into the Pillion switch and controls the parameters on the VCM mainly to reduce maximum allowed lateral acceleration and yaw.

In the short term is it feasible to put 35-40 psi in manually until I figure out if I want tackle replacement myself or have dealer do. I added air yesterday and it is holding, so I’m assuming it should hold......

I just had an air suspension issue on our 2014 RT Limited on a ride recently. I took it to our dealer and it was found out the programming in BUDS was not working adequately for this system. I also thought I lost the compressor as I aired up the air ride system using the schrader valve manually. It would lose air so I thought a leak and compressor issue. Sometimes though, it would hold air - very erratic... System did not blow any fuses, but the compressor would not air up the suspension....

They reprogrammed the air ride system (probably just a BUDS update) and it works perfectly - no parts needed!! You may want your dealer to check if the system is faulting due to BUDS! Good luck....

Like others have stated, engine running and in gear for system to respond.....

I did see in the manual that there is a checkbox setting that could be unchecked through buds that says wether or not the unit has a compressor. I will see if the dealer can check for me. Ext weekend, good thought Jim.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jim&Teresa

I just had an air suspension issue on our 2014 RT Limited on a ride recently. I took it to our dealer and it was found out the programming in BUDS was not working adequately for this system. I also thought I lost the compressor as I aired up the air ride system using the schrader valve manually. It would lose air so I thought a leak and compressor issue. Sometimes though, it would hold air - very erratic... System did not blow any fuses, but the compressor would not air up the suspension....

They reprogrammed the air ride system (probably just a BUDS update) and it works perfectly - no parts needed!! You may want your dealer to check if the system is faulting due to BUDS! Good luck....

Like others have stated, engine running and in gear for system to respond.....

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I just went thru this Sunday. My compressor died on MD. It is my second compressor. By the way the replacement compressor has a splined shaft instead of a D shaft and set screw. BRP learned from earlier compressors. Any way there is a relay just for the air ride suspension. On my 2011 RTS it is R1. It should say on your relay cover which relay it is. Remove it, this way it wont bleed out your air. This is a quick, temporary fix. I just converted mine back to a standard RT. I may order an aftermarket compressor, (VIAIR 98c, $87.00, Amazon). OEM is $385.00. Bruce

But yes, if you decide to remove the switch/automatic adjustment, you can run a simple airline from the schraeder valve direct to the airbag.

That is what I did. But for OP find out which relay controls the air ride and remove it. As I stated in above post.

Thank you for the info, the relay is in the right block. It’s either r4 or r5. I will check the manual tomorrow and pull that relay.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by safecracker

That is what I did. But for OP find out which relay controls the air ride and remove it. As I stated in above post.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Brentc

I did see in the manual that there is a checkbox setting that could be unchecked through buds that says wether or not the unit has a compressor. I will see if the dealer can check for me. Ext weekend, good thought Jim.

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The first and only time the air suspension failed on our bike is this time when the bike has over 55,000 miles on it... No issues with the bike overall - We purchased it new in 2014 ....it's been a great ride.....I don't know why BUDS malfunctioned in regard to the air suspension.....

My forth compressor went last friday. It should be under warranty but if not I will look into a simple fill system

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steviep

My forth compressor went last friday. It should be under warranty but if not I will look into a simple fill system

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After 2 system failures, I disconnected the bleed-off control connector and now just fill using the Schrader valve under the seat when necessary. Until I can actually fix the issue, or the bag actually fails, this works fine for me. :ohyea::ohyea:

One thing that also works for me...not all may agree...is this. When I first put air into the system a while ago, I measured from the ground to the bottom of the rear fender (or in my case now from the bottom of my extended splash flap to the ground. In my case that is 7". Before a ride, or even during if I am curious or concerned, I just use my itty bitty tape measure and check that dimension. If it is significantly less than that amount, I put air in. If not, I don't worry about it. This eliminates the issue I had with losing a lot of air every time I tried to use a gauge to check the pressure. I ALWAYS lost 3-5 pounds and had to "try again" :banghead: Others may be able to use those small tire gauges better than me and I applaud you for it :roflblack::roflblack: OK...…….that's my story and I'm sticking with it. :thumbup:

PS: we ALWAYS ride 2 up, and the ride and control with no bottoming out is much better at 70 PSI that 40-50 or lower, that mine WAS bleeding off to. :yes::yes:

I have 2014 RTS and also had two system failures...Over this past winter I reworked my air system to suit me...I disconnected the factory system completely...I put in a Viair compressor, air dash gauge, intermitting rocker switch in place of the factory hard/soft control switch, replace all the quick lock air fittings with compression type, new air bag with a bottom cup, drilled & taped the dump valve for the air gauge line and wired in a relay to control the compressor and dump valve, and wired the trigger/control post of the relay to be activated only when the stop lights are on...I can now adjust the air pressure to suite my riding conditions in seconds and DO NOT HEAR THE CONSTANT RUNNING OF THE COMPRESSOR and DISCHARGE of air at every movement of the bike...

Having a dash air gauge, YOU would be amazed at the changes of the static air pressure in the bag with the movement of the bike and the weight of the riders...It will vary as much as 30 lbs.

NO I did NOT take any pictures...

But I did have a considerable amount of HELP & SUPPORT for a VERY KNOWLEDGE forum member...

larryd

Quote:

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Originally Posted by teninospyder

After 2 system failures, I disconnected the bleed-off control connector and now just fill using the Schrader valve under the seat when necessary. Until I can actually fix the issue, or the bag actually fails, this works fine for me. :ohyea::ohyea:

One thing that also works for me...not all may agree...is this. When I first put air into the system a while ago, I measured from the ground to the bottom of the rear fender (or in my case now from the bottom of my extended splash flap to the ground. In my case that is 7". Before a ride, or even during if I am curious or concerned, I just use my itty bitty tape measure and check that dimension. If it is significantly less than that amount, I put air in. If not, I don't worry about it. This eliminates the issue I had with losing a lot of air every time I tried to use a gauge to check the pressure. I ALWAYS lost 3-5 pounds and had to "try again" :banghead: Others may be able to use those small tire gauges better than me and I applaud you for it :roflblack::roflblack: OK...…….that's my story and I'm sticking with it. :thumbup:

PS: we ALWAYS ride 2 up, and the ride and control with no bottoming out is much better at 70 PSI that 40-50 or lower, that mine WAS bleeding off to. :yes::yes:

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How did you disconnect the bleed off connector, where do I find it

(Bump)
I just replaced my 4th compressor and this BRP ACS system seems way too complicated. (BTW, what does ACS stand for?)
I've tried reading/following the Troubleshooting procedure in the Rear Suspension subsection of the service manual and was about to pull my hair out.
I can't believe BRP wants you to balance the RT on (2) short pieces of 4x4 wood. But then you need BUDS to check everything out, and I don't have BUDS.
Looks like I'll just go with a manual system as my next big ride is just two weeks away.
It's my intention to pull R1 relay (I have a 2012 RT-S) to keep the compressor from running and disconnect the solenoid wiring connector at the "dump" valve.
I'm contemplating installing an air pressure gage on the right side of the dash, where my analog temperature gage used to be, so I can easily monitor system pressure at anytime.
Any thoughts or suggestions?

Sent you a PM metman...Call me...larryd