I have yet to put Speed Bleeders on my 2017 F3L as I only had it since Feb. and only have 400+ miles on it due to life getting in the way. But I will be ordering (by phone) soon.
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does anyone have a part # for 2015 RT Speed Bleeder?
I sent them an email today. Witney replied and I've ordered Speed Bleeders for my F-250, CRV and F3 Limited.
F3
Front……SB8125L
Rear…….SB8125L
ABS Unit….SB1010S
Here is a copy of my order for my 2014 RTS...I have a ISCI hand brake kit...
Order Summary
Speed Bleeder Bag & Hose Combo SB9010 Speed Bleeder Bag & Hose Combo
$6.00 x 1
$6.00
SB1010S / 9407, H9407, 9497-2, H9497-2 Speed Bleeder SB1010S SB1010S / 9407, H9407, 9497-2, H9497-2 Speed Bleeder
$7.00 x 1
$7.00
SB6100 / 9417, H9417 Speed Bleeder SB6100 SB6100 / 9417, H9417 Speed Bleeder
$7.00 x 1
$7.00
SB8125L / 9405, H9405, 9422, H9422 Speed Bleeder SB8125L SB8125L / 9405, H9405, 9422, H9422 Speed Bleeder
$7.00 x 3
$21.00
That's a very fair price for the great convenience Speed Bleeders provide. Not to forget to mention the firm pedal and lever they give you.
Update
The SB8125LL does not fit into the F3 banjo bolt where the original bleeder comes out. I've sent in more information about the bolt to settle on what's going on. Now I need my wife to get home so I can have her help me bleed the air out of the line....
The reality is, I think you only need 1 speed bleeder to bleed these brakes plus one of the abs unit. Everything else I was able to bleed the normal way using one hand on the brake pedal and the other on the wrench.
I still intend to put speed bleeders on, but for those who want to be smart with their money, you probably don't need them on every fitting on the bike.
I have speedbleeders on the 2012 RTL...however not on the VSS/ABS....I don't have BUDS....I'm good with about a 90% fluid exchange. The BUDS can measure hydraulic pressure as well as other factors-I've been corrected by purists on this matter that it is important since afterall ya need to stop and other systems are tied into this algorithm-but we all get to make our own decisions -some good some bad. I'm happy for the most part. I'm not happy in comparing my 2014 RTS Brembo brakes vs my 2012 RTL brakes....the early brakes in comparison are poor. I know both Lamonster and BAJARON support the idea that changing rotors and pads on the pre brembo SPYDERS brakes can help increase functionality. Well-I don't think they could possibly get any worse so there's that thought.
speedbleeder.com has a chart on the web site.
I've used this https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0143 from Motion Pro for years and it works excellent.
There are a number of aids that make the bleeding process easier. But this won't get the ABS module bled. I am in the camp that it's not necessary. The amount of fluid in the ABS unit is relatively small. And the system is not static. The fluid gets moved around. So, changing it ever 2 years or so is going to keep the system more than clean enough.
Haven't bled the ABS on 1330 yet, but on the 998's I used a 1/4 drive socket with about 12" extension with a 1/2" socket. Took off tupperware on left side, lowered the socket down center front of the engine. Was able to put one eye on the bleeder and got socket on the bleeder. Cracked it open, made a mess (pump pedal tighten method), but all brake codes went away and pedal became rock solid. This was on a 2008GS, probably minute air builds up over many bleeds and pad changes IMHO.
Also to be fair not messing with ABS bleeding unless pedal is squishy with a fresh three wheel bleed. I change out fluid by pulling thru 3 wheel's bleeders until all fluid replaced.
All I know for sure is when I bled my brakes using BUDS very little fluid came out from the ABS unit. Probably not more than a teaspoon.