Wheel alignment etc

I have read so many threads about Spyders darting from side to side because of holding on too tight etc - as I am a bike rider for almost 50 years etc I thought it was down to this that mine was bad on anything but smooth roads. But this morning I decided enough was enough so checked the Spyder. First thing I did was look at the rear wheel alignment to the centre line of the frame so placed straight edge on the rear tyre side walls towards the front of the bike and measured in the same place the distance to the straight edge - left side of wheel - 110mm and ride side of wheel 135mm. So rear wheel was not true to frame........ However if I adjusted it correctly the belt moves over almost off the rear spocket - so adjusted so that the belt runs about 2mm gap to sprocket. Now checked the front toe in and both were at zero - able to measure each one idividually. Set it as article to 0.5mm on both - so total 1mm toe in. Took it out and much better. Now not fighting it all the time. Took my 9 year old to local town and was so relaxed talking with him that was speeding all the way without noticing :) :)

The alignment really helps and after the Laser alignment started being used it was found that many spyders were even out of alignment from the dealer. The old method was to align to the frame but now it is to align to the rear wheel. Once the rear wheel and belt adjusted correctly the front wheels are aligned . You have seen the effect and your ryde has become much more enjoyable..congrats...:2thumbs:

Just a update - Today had to ride to local city and before I would have taken side roads as was nervous of the Spyder on the freeway but thought I would try it after the adjustments and what a --king difference. Now riding along at 130kph over taking things one handed etc. So happy :) :)

Please let us have a little more detail on you front wheel alignment method.
Thanks

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Originally Posted by Eckhard

Please let us have a little more detail on you front wheel alignment method.
Thanks

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My method is in first post - cannot really add anything to that (sorry). Think main thing was the difference in toe in from zero to 1 deg toe in :)

So you used a straight edge that was attached to the front wheel and measured to the frame? How long was the straight edge? What was the distance between the points measured to allow you to setup a delta of .5mm. Based on your last post the distance to have .5 degree angle would be 57.2943250647mm. Or some multiple of .5 mm and 57.2943250647mm. As it is difficult, if not impossible, to accurately measure 57.2943250647mm it must have been a multiple thereof and a large multiple thereof to get any any accuracy in the angle measurement.

I guess I will go back to exploring the laser method of doing the front wheel alignment.

Eckhard
First I used a straight edge to see if the rear wheel was square to the frame but it was not - but if I squared it to the frame the belt drive would almost come off the rear cog - so had to adjust the rear wheel to allow for the belt to run about 2mm from the inside raised part. The front wheels where set using a toe in / out tool - similar to photo attached but mine does each wheel seperate. .

That was enlightening. Thank you.

Only being a Spyder owner for less than 3 months I have a question. My ride is preowned 2014 Spyder RT Limited. With 21000 miles and well maintained. The Kenda tires on the front are cupped and sing on the road. My question is who performs a laser alignment? Is it a Dealer service or a tire garage service?

This wheel alignment issue is an absolute joke and a fixable one that BRP don't seem to give a stuff about.
How long does it take to remedy a known problem that is a safety issue as well as an obvious flaw for test riders with any feel for what is going on.
Dealers pass the buck and refuse to take responsibility, BRP the same; not a good look for all involved. Customer feels let down early in the relationship and passes his thoughts on down the line.
It's just dumb. :banghead:

A cautionary tale on who you take it to. Just because a dealer has the tools, don't trust them to know how to use them. In areas that aren't swamped with Spyders, they may only do one or two alignments a year. I asked my servicing dealer about laser alignment, they said they did them. I asked more about it, he didn't ask my weight, riding style, whether I ride 2 up, or any of the other questions I've heard are pertinent to setting the toe correctly, to match you and your bike. Choose someone who does a lot of alignments, you'll probable end up with a better job. I'm going to ride 400 miles to get mine set.

Well this is what did just to satisfy my curiosity about the alignment thing.
I got 2 pieces of carbon fiber square tube about 24” long.
I rotated my tires so I had clear sections of the sidewall at the bottom, that is to say no raised lettering and numbers just smooth sidewall.
I placed the rod on 2x4 blocks off the floor and held them snug against the sidewall on both sides.
I then measured behind the wheel outside to outside of the rods. 61 5/16”
I then measured in front of the wheel outside to outside of the rods. 61 2/16”. Yes I know 61 1/4”
A difference of 3/16”. Tow in .?

I’m thinking this is good and don’t fix it if it anit broken! Thoughts.? Bill

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I then measured in front of the wheel outside to outside of the rods. 61 2/16”. Yes I know 61 1/4”

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61 1/8" BTW Seems like a typo as your calculation is correct.

The numbers say toe-in. But it is .448 degrees. .22 degrees per side. Seems a bit high. Let's see what the other say.

I see this is an older thread but I have the same handling issues as this. I recently purchased my 2011 RS-S with only 3200 miles on it and would assume the alignment should be good from the dealer, but I guess I will have to check this out! It does seem very unsafe when it will shoot you from on side to the other.
Does anyone have anything to add to this that might help me out or save me some time?
Thank you for any help.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by starman1900

I see this is an older thread but I have the same handling issues as this. I recently purchased my 2011 RS-S with only 3200 miles on it and would assume the alignment should be good from the dealer, but I guess I will have to check this out! It does seem very unsafe when it will shoot you from on side to the other.
Does anyone have anything to add to this that might help me out or save me some time?
Thank you for any help.

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The time to have the alignment done would be now because they get real busy in the spring and it can take 3 to 4 weeks to get in if you wait till May. There is a dealer in Hanover (MotoSports Inc.) that has the equipment and is very good. Here is a list of PA dealers that do laser alignments. "click: http://www.spydercomfort.com/dealerspa.htm Make sure and call ahead to make sure that they still have the person there to do the alignment. I know Hanover is good, I have had mine done there.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by starman1900

I see this is an older thread but I have the same handling issues as this. I recently purchased my 2011 RS-S with only 3200 miles on it and would assume the alignment should be good from the dealer, but I guess I will have to check this out! It does seem very unsafe when it will shoot you from on side to the other.
Does anyone have anything to add to this that might help me out or save me some time?
Thank you for any help.

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Just type "wheel alignment" or even just 'alignment' into the search box & hit the little search symbol, then select anything with a thread title that looks like it might help your particular issues - there's a VAST amount of info on this subject here, and most of it agrees that the BRP/factory method of alignment is not all that great, at least on the earlier Spyders! :gaah:

Sure, there's potentially a lot of reading involved in doing this, but by spending the time searching & reading thru some of what's already been posted, you could well save yourself a lot of time & $$ chasing after your tail while trying to sort out any ride & handling issues on your Spyder, even if your particular concerns aren't alignment related.... However, unless it's already had a 'proper' alignment done by someone who knows what they're doing (which sadly, despite there being a few standout exceptions as noted above, probably means NOT by a dealer! :rolleyes: ) then there's a very good chance that such an alignment would be a benefit; altho so could replacing the tires; installing an a/mkt swaybar; lowering the front tire pressure to 16-18 psi IF your Spyder already has 'real' tires fitted & is not still running the OE Kendas or one of their clones; &/or a whole bunch more! :lecturef_smilie:

That last bit above about tires raises another concern... is your 2011 but low milage Spyder still running its original factory issued tires?? :dontknow: Cos if it is, even if they still look OK & maybe even have good tread depth left, it's almost a certainty that after 10 or so years of little use, they are WELL PAST being safe to use on the road!! :yikes: Check the date code on the tire sidewall - if they're more than 5 years old & you personally don't know how well or not they've been treated during their life, then you probably shouldn't even ride around the block on them!! :shocked: Check out the thread below & the link posted in it -
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...fying-tire-age

Over to you! :cheers:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bill

Well this is what did just to satisfy my curiosity about the alignment thing.
I got 2 pieces of carbon fiber square tube about 24” long.
I rotated my tires so I had clear sections of the sidewall at the bottom, that is to say no raised lettering and numbers just smooth sidewall.
I placed the rod on 2x4 blocks off the floor and held them snug against the sidewall on both sides.
I then measured behind the wheel outside to outside of the rods. 61 5/16”
I then measured in front of the wheel outside to outside of the rods. 61 2/16”. Yes I know 61 1/4”
A difference of 3/16”. Tow in .?

I’m thinking this is good and don’t fix it if it anit broken! Thoughts.? Bill

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If it was me I would go off the rim not the tire wall!! Even if you had to cut some little stand offs to get your straight edge solid off the rim! just my 2 cents

Thanks

Yes they are the original tires! So I think I will start looking for tires and go from there.
Is there any tire you would recommend?

Any car tire that fits is 1000% better than the Kendas! There are loads of threads regarding tires as well as alignment.