Help with RPM's

I've read many of the posts on this forum and have learned quite alot about can am products. One particular post dealts with proper break in procedures for new spyders. Many said to take it easy for the first few hundred miles but I did read one very different post from a so called expert motorcycle engineer. He said a new motorcycle should be ridden hard at first so that the pistons, rings and seals set fully within the cylinder walls. This made a lot of sense to me.
Today I decided to raise the RPM's higher on my ride today. Currently I have 230 miles on my new F3 (base model). As I rode a few miles today, I had the opportunity to safely raise the RPM's. I went from 1st through 4th gears changing each one at 6200 - 6500 RPM's. What is the max RPM's on my base model F3?
Im assuming it starts redlining at 8000 rpm's and max out at 10,000 rpm's but im not sure. My spyder has the 4.5 inch digital screen and all it displays is what rpm's the bike is currently running.
Any suggestions from anyone on how much to raise the rpm's so the motor breaks in properly?

Thanks

The most important part of breaking in is continually vary the revs. No long stretches in one speed in one gear. Allow the engine to warm a few minutes while you put on your gear. Never hit the starter on a cold engine and take off.
Using those higher revs for shifting is OK, but don't keep it up there for more than a shift and you'll be doing fine.
So a break in is a combination of those two philosophies.

I don't know which engine you have, but it will not rev 10,000 RPMs. If it is the 1330, it is going to be bouncing off the rev limiter at 8,100. You need to read the owner's manual. It does not need to be run up anywhere near the red line for break in.

In addition to varying your rpms, down shift to allow engine braking. This also helps load your rings.

I’ve had no problem just riding normally to the first oil change.

The 1330 likes to be driven in the 3500-4000 rpm range. You will find seemless shifts at the 3500 point. I let it downshift on its own 98% of the time.

The others have given good advice. Take it easy the first 350 or so to get the brakes and new tires set in. Vary the speeds at other times. You don't need all six gears all the time. I keep mine in 3rd all the way up to fifty. Over 60 is when 6th comes in.

I have over 1000 miles on mine now and have not seen the need to run it beyond 5500 rpms. I believe the tach on my 2014 (1330) RT...shows the red line at around 7,000.

The V twins (998's) liked higher rpms and liked to be shifted and kept in the 5500 plus ranges.

There are those who make a compelling case for a WOT break in process. However, there are a number of things that are true of this very controversial method that do not apply to your Spyder. One of which is that this process is started right off the bat. Your Spyder engine has been run 'Driven' (no fuel or combustion) for some time. And then run stand alone, started up with its own ignition, fuel, etc., for an additional period of time. So there is a certain amount of break in already done when you receive your Spyder brand new.

Beyond this. The case for following the manufacturer's recommendations is far more compelling than the WOT, hard break-in process. I would highly recommend using the manufacturer's recommendations. And if you know me. I am not shy about disagreeing with the manufacturer when I think it beneficial.

Here is a good video on this subject. The only caveat I would add is that he is discussing a car engine with a somewhat lower red-line RPM than what our Spyders run. Since your Spyder's red line is a few thousand RPM's higher than the vehicles he is discussing. And it takes more RPM on our Spyder engines to get into the power band and not lug the motor. The appropriate break-in RPM's for your Spyder will also be higher. Check your owner's manual for the correct numbers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...ature=emb_logo

With modern alloys and modern machining break in is only a coupla hundred miles. I rode it home like I stole it.

Some racers break their engines in on the dyno, doing full power runs. One thing I adopted early on is making full power runs on an engine during break in, from about 25% up to about 65% of max RPM range to seat the rings, with a cool down period of varied throttle between. The only reason I won't run it like I stole it from the get go is all the other stuff wearing in together needs a little time to polish out the tiny burrs. I've had good success with this, never had any vehicle broke in like this use oil or not get full mileage on the drive train.

You'd wince at what they do at the end of the assembly line. It's not for the weak of heart.

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Originally Posted by RICZ

You'd wince at what they do at the end of the assembly line. It's not for the weak of heart.

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I am interested, is there more to hear?

At the end of the assembly line, the engine is revved dramatically. How high? It varies engine to engine and I can't tell you.

Talked to a GM engineer (I know different vehicle) his recommendation was to start the vehicle, and as soon as oil pressure is up, to get rolling on easy throttle. Getting it out of cold enrichment as soon as you can helps w/ keeping the fuel from washing down the cylinders. And when cold to keep it under 50-60% throttle. Vary throttle for the first few hundred miles.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RICZ

At the end of the assembly line, the engine is revved dramatically. How high? It varies engine to engine and I can't tell you.

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Tend to agree. I saw a motorcycle video of bikes being tested prior to being crated. These were not Spyders but sportbikes. Apparently, they add just enough fuel, fire the engine, a few seconds of oil pressure then rolling road dyno run to validate power to redline, and selecting every gear.

Yes, certainly not for the faint of heart to see.

There are many various opinions and methods to obtain a good break in. As others stated, start and build oil pressure before moving. These days and on Spyders that is pretty quick being only a few seconds max. Then ride with care without bogging the engine until warmed up, then ride with varied rpm, reasonably under max rpm for a few hundred miles, again not lugging or bogging the engine, but use mid rpms and large throttle openings to get the rings to seal well, and as mentioned, engine braking is good also.

I believe BRP states 3000 miles for the first oil change. Many do that with acceptable results. I differ on this and prefer to do an oil and filter change around 50% of the suggested break in mileage. I go back with oem suggested oil and a new oem filter. I retain the filter until a reasonable time indicates the engine is not making metal. After the 3000 miles, I do a second oil and filter change to my preferred oil.

FWIW, Nikasil cylinders are very hard. The rings are iron and need to bed against the Nikasil, same for the pistons. I am unsure if the 1330 Rotax engine uses moly coated pistons. Very possible but I am not sure. The moly coated piston are now very popular and lessen issues during not only break in but often give very long life in a Nikasil cylinder.