2015 RTS 1330 SE6 Sluggish on Take Off

I’ve got 43,000 miles on it now, it’s been awesome commuter bike here in NorthWest Washington. But she’s starting to hesitate when you first takeoff from a stop. It feels like clutch slippage. It used to be very crisp, in fact, in the rain or dew you had to be ginger or you were sideways with it. After it gets going it seems to be fine. I’ve been wondering if the clutch packs were getting down to end of their life. I’d just had it serviced about 1,000 miles ago and of course they mentioned nothing!! Thanks guys I’m new here and this is my second Spyder, first was a 2013 RT limited SE5 - loved that motor hated trying to fuel it! ��

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Winger76

I’ve got 43,000 miles on it now, it’s been awesome commuter bike here in NorthWest Washington. But she’s starting to hesitate when you first takeoff from a stop. It feels like clutch slippage. It used to be very crisp, in fact, in the rain or dew you had to be ginger or you were sideways with it. After it gets going it seems to be fine. I’ve been wondering if the clutch packs were getting down to end of their life. I’d just had it serviced about 1,000 miles ago and of course they mentioned nothing!! Thanks guys I’m new here and this is my second Spyder, first was a 2013 RT limited SE5 - loved that motor hated trying to fuel it! ��

---

My experience with a 2014 RT SE-6 with 66,000mi. I have done approx. 60 full throttle runs at a registered Drag Track .... I have NO slipping ...not then, and not now.... I have always used Full Syn oil ... Hopefully you are using an Oil certified for WET Clutch operation & the OIL level is correct ... PS I still have the orig. spark plugs. .....good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

sounds like time for a tune up

Make sure you didn't push the "ECO" button...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Winger76

I’ve got 43,000 miles on it now, it’s been awesome commuter bike here in NorthWest Washington. But she’s starting to hesitate when you first takeoff from a stop. It feels like clutch slippage. It used to be very crisp, in fact, in the rain or dew you had to be ginger or you were sideways with it. After it gets going it seems to be fine. I’ve been wondering if the clutch packs were getting down to end of their life. I’d just had it serviced about 1,000 miles ago and of course they mentioned nothing!! Thanks guys I’m new here and this is my second Spyder, first was a 2013 RT limited SE5 - loved that motor hated trying to fuel it! ��

---

While it does sound suspiciously like someone's selected ECO Mode for you, I also hafta ask who did the service/oil change?? :rolleyes: Any chance at all that an unsuitable oil was used?? :dontknow: . What you describe could easily be due to an oil that's not suitable for wet-clutches, or even maybe an incorrect grade &/or quantity?? :banghead:




As for your last comment re your first Spyder, possibly I shouldn't say this now, but maybe you shoulda just got an ECU Upgrade on your 2013 RT Ltd :lecturef_smilie:

My 2013 RT Ltd is still going strong at somewhat more miles than you've got on your 'new' Spyder, and after the ECU Upgrade it not only out-performs just about every 1330 Spyder out there, but it also gets much the same fuel economy.... well, whenever I'm just cruising/commuting anyway, altho maybe it's not quite the same when it's running flat out/on the track! :p . Still, despite that better fuel economy than stock, the smaller tank on the 2013's (22 litres/20 useable or about 5 galls) vs that of the 2014's on (26 litres/24 useable about 6 galls) does mean I don't ever get quite the same range as the 1330's can, so I do hafta fill a little earlier.... :rolleyes: but I reckon that even cruising I still get a lot more fun outta each tank of gas & the V-twin motor than most get out of their 1330's with its larger tank/better range! :ohyea:

As Peter said, we need to know more about the service history. Specifically, were the BRP specified service actions performed at the specified intervals? And by whom?

My experience with dealer service is they specify OEM and p/n for the engine oil used. What does your service receipt show?

The SE6 clutch is engaged by variable controlled pressure acting against spring force. The controls are fairly complex, maybe at 1980s-1990s automatic transmission level. There are feedback controls for both oil temperature and oil pressure (the transmission has two pressure circuits separate from the engine oil circuit).

There is a phenomenon known as "flare" where during the shift operation the engine RPM briefly increases beyond that needed for a smooth shift. Are you observing that?

Are you observing the hesitation anywhere besides takeoff?

Does the hesitation manifest as higher than usual clutch engagement RPM? When engagement occurs is it smooth or harsh?

Engine and ambient temperatures affect shifting. When the engine is cool (2 bars or less) my shifts are butter-smooth (86K miles). And pretty much the same for temperatures in the 60s or less or after freeway riding. They were inconsistent until I switched to Motul 7100 15W50 but I'm not recommending this for you. My point is like the engine, the transmission is an actively adaptive element in the powertrain. And there might be a firmware upgrade available for the TCM. Perhaps some members can provide more information on this.

At 43K your clutch packs should have plenty of life left. Your situation can be improved without replacing them.

Have you pulled off the front belt pulley and inspeced the splines? Be sure touse Moli Paste when reassembling.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Winger76

I’ve got 43,000 miles on it now, it’s been awesome commuter bike here in NorthWest Washington. But she’s starting to hesitate when you first takeoff from a stop. It feels like clutch slippage. It used to be very crisp, in fact, in the rain or dew you had to be ginger or you were sideways with it. After it gets going it seems to be fine. I’ve been wondering if the clutch packs were getting down to end of their life. I’d just had it serviced about 1,000 miles ago and of course they mentioned nothing!! Thanks guys I’m new here and this is my second Spyder, first was a 2013 RT limited SE5 - loved that motor hated trying to fuel it! ��

---

Could be moisture in the tank. Sea foam Will take care of that

I use the Can Am oil service kit done it my self for the last 20k but there was a period way back I used the Lamonster Oil as I was ordering some of they’re parts anyway. I think maybe 2 oil changes with the Lamonster. I try to run alchohol free fuel to when I have time to stock up on it. It does better on mileage on that point I do know where the ECO button is and I can assure you I’m not running against the clock to south Seattle with that thing on. To many Subarus and Prius drivers to weave around! Thanks all for getting back to me on this one I just wondered if there was a clamp up adjustment on these. I’ve read they’re a hydraulic lockup electrically controlled… But with that I have to say being a long time motorcycle rider how much I love the Bosch semi auto paddle shifter on this thing it really is awesome. And I’ve wished I could adapt it to some of my bikes. I know Aprilia actually put the 998 rotax engine with that paddle shifter on one of they’re street fighter bikes years ago. Combine that with a sport touring bike….

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Winger76

I use the Can Am oil service kit done it my self for the last 20k but there was a period way back I used the Lamonster Oil as I was ordering some of they’re parts anyway. I think maybe 2 oil changes with the Lamonster. I try to run alchohol free fuel to when I have time to stock up on it. It does better on mileage on that point I do know where the ECO button is and I can assure you I’m not running against the clock to south Seattle with that thing on. To many Subarus and Prius drivers to weave around! Thanks all for getting back to me on this one I just wondered if there was a clamp up adjustment on these. I’ve read they’re a hydraulic lockup electrically controlled… But with that I have to say being a long time motorcycle rider how much I love the Bosch semi auto paddle shifter on this thing it really is awesome. And I’ve wished I could adapt it to some of my bikes. I know Aprilia actually put the 998 rotax engine with that paddle shifter on one of they’re street fighter bikes years ago. Combine that with a sport touring bike….

---

On the " ECO " thing causing noticeable LOSS of power ..... well at the last SpyderFest in Mo. " Yazz " ( Joy ) & her husband paid for renting the Drag Track ..... A lot of folks showed up ( it was free :roflblack:- why wouldn't they ) ..... We raced in 4 class category's ... I was in the Stock RT class ..... I normally use ECO mode and stupidly left it ON during the track runs .... At the finale' I came in second place in a field of about 14 ..... So either I am one of the greatest Drag Racers :roflblack: or ECO mode didn't matter all that much ( I did beat 12 other RT's ). So I think it was the latter ....jmho , but a true story. ..... Mike :thumbup:

Yes there is a "clamp up adjustment"

Tailorable throttle response is available with the Pedal Commander or Pedal Box.

You're riding on the cool side of WA so high temperature isn't the problem.

Could you clarify hesitation vice clutch slip.

Specifically does it take higher RPM than usual before the clutch starts engaging (ie, hesitation) or once the clutch starts to engage does the RPM increase past expected full engagement and then drop (ie, clutch slip).

Does the issue occur only with your first ride of the day or throughout the day?

I'm going to go out on a limb here -- how old is your battery? If it's older than three years (I'm going to get flamed here) replace it. And use star washers.;)

Another possibility is the long-term trim in the TCM isn't appropriate anymore. But I don't know how to reset it except with a BUDS.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BertRemington

Yes there is a "clamp up adjustment"

Tailorable throttle response is available with the Pedal Commander or Pedal Box.

You're riding on the cool side of WA so high temperature isn't the problem.

Could you clarify hesitation vice clutch slip.

Specifically does it take higher RPM than usual before the clutch starts engaging (ie, hesitation) or once the clutch starts to engage does the RPM increase past expected full engagement and then drop (ie, clutch slip).

Does the issue occur only with your first ride of the day or throughout the day?

I'm going to go out on a limb here -- how old is your battery? If it's older than three years (I'm going to get flamed here) replace it. And use star washers.;)

Another possibility is the long-term trim in the TCM isn't appropriate anymore. But I don't know how to reset it except with a BUDS.

---

With the buds2, you use the "learn engagement point"?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911

On the " ECO " thing causing noticeable LOSS of power ..... well at the last SpyderFest in Mo. " Yazz " ( Joy ) & her husband paid for renting the Drag Track ..... A lot of folks showed up ( it was free :roflblack:- why wouldn't they ) ..... We raced in 4 class category's ... I was in the Stock RT class ..... I normally use ECO mode and stupidly left it ON during the track runs .... At the finale' I came in second place in a field of about 14 ..... So either I am one of the greatest Drag Racers :roflblack: or ECO mode didn't matter all that much ( I did beat 12 other RT's ). So I think it was the latter ....jmho , but a true story. ..... Mike :thumbup:

---

Sounds like old school bracket racing!!

A quick BUDS hookup to reset the clutch engagement points could probably take you back to the old days.