It is exactly the same setup whether a F3, an F3-S, or a F3-Ltd. 2015-2017 Guess I should add "All F-3 models". First time that has ever come up. If you order, use a big computer. The smart phone function will not work correctly.
Printable View
While we haven't actually videoed our Damper install for the F3's, we felt the one Lamont did for the BRP one was good enough, and our kit mounts exactly the same way.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VV5m1okyZ1A
Here are where our videos are located. Work your way through them. Be aware that some information has been superseded as we refined things. I guess I can do a video, but it may be a while. Kinda busy..... btw: Out of all of the F3 kits here and abroad we have sold, no one has had any trouble installing them.
http://dochumphreys.wixsite.com/roadster/install
We are getting ready to start offering a new, easier way to align the pulley. It is pretty easy to align the pulley and adjust tracking all at one time. More about it when we launch it. I tried it on a RT today and it worked perfect and was very accurate.
I have a 2013 Spyder RS-S and would like to find a tensioner for it. I am new to the bike this year and could hear/feel something but not able to put my finger on what it was. I now understand that it has to be the belt vibration.
Not sure it will fit on the RS. Depends on if the area on the left side below the tank is the same. Can you pull panels and post pictures?
I didn't even consider any other damper than Doc's. Very happy with it. The kit comes with everything needed. It was an easy install too.
It was bought in late May and has over 34,000 miles on it, no problems.
Buy Doc's, I think it's the best.
Chuck
The kit #2 - F3 will fit all F3's all years.
https://www.roadsterrenovations.info/
New website - smart phone friendly
I have recently fitted a damper from Doc Humphrey and it was straightforward to fit and works really well, but probably more important than that he is a great guy to deal with and I would highly recommend him :thumbup:. thanks Doc :clap:
Here are a couple of comments from a Gates publication from back in 1993. ww2.gates.com/IF/facts/documents/Gf000280.pdf
Doc has gotten it right it looks like, lightly at 1/3 of the span.Quote:
Q. What causes belt-drive vibration and how can it be corrected?
A. Drive belts experience both vertical and lateral vibrations when their natural frequencies coincide with resonant
frequency of connected equipment.
Belt tension can affect the amplitude of this vibration. Therefore, to correct the problem, first check for proper
tension. A common method to control vertical vibration uses a restraining device (metal rod or idler pulley) placed
perpendicular to the belt span and close to or lightly touching the belt. This device should be positioned roughly
1/3 of the span distance from the larger pulley.
If this does not work, consider changing other drive parameters to reduce the amplitude of vibration or alter its
frequency. Such parameters include span length, belt type, misalignment, inertia of driving or driven machinery,
pulley diameter and weight (inertia), speed, and the number of belts. In some cases (where original unit was
oversized), it may be possible to downsize the drive by reducing the number of belts or belt width, and increasing
the static tension to alter the belt’s natural frequency so it doesn’t coincide with the excitation frequency of the
machinery. When it can be done safely, it is preferable to reduce the static tension to keep the operating belt tension
below the belt’s natural frequency range.
Q. What is the proper procedure for tensioning a drive?
A. First, consider another question: Why is proper tension necessary? V-belts use friction between the belt
sidewalls and sides of the sheave to transmit power. By contrast, synchronous belts use the engagement of teeth to
transmit power.
Over-tensioning either a V-belt or synchronous belt causes excessive bearing load, reduced belt life, and excessive
pulley wear. Under-tensioning a V-belt causes belt slippage, whereas under-tensioning a synchronous belt can lead
to severe tooth wear and even ratcheting (jumping teeth).
Mike, you might be interested in noting the last sentence in the quote above.
I just received a Gates 91132 Krikit II Drive Belt Tension Gauge from BajahRon's to check the tension on my F3 drive belt.
It tells me that I have 200#'s of tension on the belt.
However I'm getting the vibrations when letting up on the trottle.
Now the belt tensioner will supposedly eliminate the vibrations even though the belt is that tight?
Thanks much, guys, JimSTer
Easiest thing to do is reduce belt tension. Yours is way too tight. TST61y014s05 suggests the tension on an F3 be set at 300N +/-100. I would adjust your belt before adding a damper...... Jim
Hello canamjhb:
Thanks so much for your input. You've solidified my thoughts that I need to loosen the belt tension some.
However my tool measures in pounds. So can you translate 300N +/-100 for me?
I saw 160-180 pounds somewhere on here.
Thanks again, JimSTer
My new 2019 special series can am spyder came with belt tensioner from the factory I guess they released that it needed one
I put the BRP tensioner on my RT and on first ride with it installed I heard a clicking sound. So, went home to pull the Tupperware and have a look. And right next to the pulley in the belt is A DAMN PEBBLE STICKING UP THRU THE BELT!! :banghead: Spyder God looking out for me? I haven't ridden it since I found it. I need to wait until next month's payday to buy a new belt. I just hope it hasn't affected either sprocket.