no rear shock

Ok, got back from a almost nice ride with the wife! The downer of the trip, was early into it I was noticing that my ride was going to crap, every bump, pothole, ect was going right up my spine! I have the old RTL bad compressor I believe! Got to dive into that and make sure my shock is still good, and if it is I am going direct from shock to air valve, and be done with this cheap crap! My question I have is, if I go in that direction do I have to unhook the leveling arm or any thing? It's not doing to mess with the computer and throw codes? Thanks for your time!!!

If you have a leak even with direct fill it will ride like crap. You will have to fill it all the time.

I just put a rear shock on from M2 and dont feel I will ever need the compressor/air bag again. It hasn't kicked on once since I installed the new shock. Much better ride too.

That's why I am going to check the shock out and make sure it's not leaking, then I'll plumb it up direct and be done with the pump and valves and switches that fail a lot.

Its an air bag or air spring...Does NOT have an air shock...If you have a bad compressor and want to manually air up the bike and want the air to hopefully stay in you need to unhook the dump valve...Its a 2 wire plug under the right side center panel...If you have another sources of leaks, like lines, fittings or air bag the air will leak out regardless until those leaks are fixed...If you do the direct line from the schrader valve to the air bag you DO NOT need to unhook anything...But, if hooked direct, and the air still leaks out, you'll need to find the leak...

Also be aware of the fact that if you air the bag to 60 lbs. (static pressure, meaning no one on the bike) and you ride double the air pressure will increase to around 90 lbs. setting still, And may go higher when the bike leans or you hit bumps...

I did away with my automatic air ride system...I can change my air ride pressures setting on the seat to suite my riding conditions with the "hard/soft rocker switch...

:agree: The shock is not a air shock. There is a compressor and air bag assist.

Can I ask which m2 shock you bought

Quote:

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Originally Posted by larryd

Its an air bag or air spring...Does NOT have an air shock...If you have a bad compressor and want to manually air up the bike and want the air to hopefully stay in you need to unhook the dump valve...Its a 2 wire plug under the right side center panel...If you have another sources of leaks, like lines, fittings or air bag the air will leak out regardless until those leaks are fixed...If you do the direct line from the schrader valve to the air bag you DO NOT need to unhook anything...But, if hooked direct, and the air still leaks out, you'll need to find the leak...

Also be aware of the fact that if you air the bag to 60 lbs. (static pressure, meaning no one on the bike) and you ride double the air pressure will increase to around 90 lbs. setting still, And may go higher when the bike leans or you hit bumps...

I did away with my automatic air ride system...I can change my air ride pressures setting on the seat to suite my riding conditions with the "hard/soft rocker switch...

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May I ask how you did away with the automatic air ride but was able to keep using the yard soft rocker switch. My 2012 is get the compressor changed this week. 4 th time.

Can I ask which m2 shock you bought


The Can Am Spyder RT Shocks. Its setup for my riding style ,weight ,passenger etc.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by larryd

Its an air bag or air spring...Does NOT have an air shock...If you have a bad compressor and want to manually air up the bike and want the air to hopefully stay in you need to unhook the dump valve...Its a 2 wire plug under the right side center panel...If you have another sources of leaks, like lines, fittings or air bag the air will leak out regardless until those leaks are fixed...If you do the direct line from the schrader valve to the air bag you DO NOT need to unhook anything...But, if hooked direct, and the air still leaks out, you'll need to find the leak...

Also be aware of the fact that if you air the bag to 60 lbs. (static pressure, meaning no one on the bike) and you ride double the air pressure will increase to around 90 lbs. setting still, And may go higher when the bike leans or you hit bumps...

I did away with my automatic air ride system...I can change my air ride pressures setting on the seat to suite my riding conditions with the "hard/soft rocker switch...

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So you did away with the dump valve to do that??? And kept the rest of the system??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by trikermutha

If you have a leak even with direct fill it will ride like crap. You will have to fill it all the time.

I just put a rear shock on from M2 and dont feel I will ever need the compressor/air bag again. It hasn't kicked on once since I installed the new shock. Much better ride too.

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The M2 would be a NICE addition to the bike, then I would want to upgrade the front shocks with it.:2thumbs: But I think a few bucks in fittings, hose, and a good tire gauge and I'll be a lot richer and just as far ahead!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mikey

The M2 would be a NICE addition to the bike, then I would want to upgrade the front shocks with it.:2thumbs: But I think a few bucks in fittings, hose, and a good tire gauge and I'll be a lot richer and just as far ahead!

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I here ya!

Whatever works for you go for it! :thumbup:

But the ride is night and day compared to stock :yes:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by trikermutha

I here ya!

Whatever works for you go for it! :thumbup:

But the ride is night and day compared to stock :yes:

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:banghead: I didn't want to hear that:ohyea:

I have 2014 RTS and also had two system failures...Over this past winter I reworked my air system to suit me...I disconnected the factory system completely...I put in a Viair compressor, air dash gauge, intermitting rocker switch in place of the factory hard/soft control switch, replace all the quick lock air fittings with compression type, new air bag with a bottom cup, drilled & taped the dump valve for the air gauge line and wired in a relay to control the compressor and dump valve, and wired the trigger/control post of the relay to be activated only when the stop lights are on...I can now adjust the air pressure to suite my riding conditions in seconds and DO NOT HEAR THE CONSTANT RUNNING OF THE COMPRESSOR and DISCHARGE of air at every movement of the bike...

Having a dash air gauge, YOU would be amazed at the changes of the static air pressure in the bag with the movement of the bike and the weight of the riders...It will vary as much as 30 lbs.

NO I did NOT take any pictures...

But I did have a considerable amount of HELP & SUPPORT for a VERY KNOWLEDGE forum member...

larryd

Quote:

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Originally Posted by larryd

I have 2014 RTS and also had two system failures...Over this past winter I reworked my air system to suit me...I disconnected the factory system completely...I put in a Viair compressor, air dash gauge, intermitting rocker switch in place of the factory hard/soft control switch, replace all the quick lock air fittings with compression type, new air bag with a bottom cup, drilled & taped the dump valve for the air gauge line and wired in a relay to control the compressor and dump valve, and wired the trigger/control post of the relay to be activated only when the stop lights are on...I can now adjust the air pressure to suite my riding conditions in seconds and DO NOT HEAR THE CONSTANT RUNNING OF THE COMPRESSOR and DISCHARGE of air at every movement of the bike...

Having a dash air gauge, YOU would be amazed at the changes of the static air pressure in the bag with the movement of the bike and the weight of the riders...It will vary as much as 30 lbs.

NO I did NOT take any pictures...

But I did have a considerable amount of HELP & SUPPORT for a VERY KNOWLEDGE forum member...

larryd

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How much air do you have in the bag, standing alone by it self? Just trying to come up with a starting point.