2015 RTSE6 Looking to do a complete bleed out of the brake system. Is there an easy way to get to the bleeder screw on the VSS/ABS MODULE. I am using a mighty vac break bleeder. THANK YOU
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2015 RTSE6 Looking to do a complete bleed out of the brake system. Is there an easy way to get to the bleeder screw on the VSS/ABS MODULE. I am using a mighty vac break bleeder. THANK YOU
Do you have experience bleeding ABS systems ?
And do you have access to the diagnostic computer ? I think that is necessary to do it "right".
I believe there is a procedure. Maybe rear then left then right to bleed. If I can find my annual I will post.
Left front
Right front
Rear
VCM...located in the front of vehicle
You can do rear only but recommended you follow with the VCM...:thumbup:
for what it's worth...
i just bled the brakes on my F3 about 2 months ago, and DID NOT bleed the VCM.... i now have ridden about 1000 miles of smiles with NO ISSUES....
when i bled them, i used a vacuum assist unit, and pulled an entire bottle of Brake Fluid (32 oz.) tru the system... i would imagine that every bit of the old fluid has been replaced... NO computer codes came up, and my brakes feel better than ever now...
jmho
Dan P
SPYD3R
There will remain a wee bit of brake fluid in the ABS unit without using the BUDS to cycle the valving. Is that an issue? There is a certain amount that remains in the calipers that will not be purged out and that's the area subject to the highest heat, i.e., thermal break down of the DOT 4 fluid. The specs say to replace the fluid when it has water content of 4% or greater (see information related to the H-D recall for brake fluids).
The brakes are a closed system. There is no circulation between the ABS module and the calipers, rather a column of fluid. The reason to purge the brake fluid is to remove the potential for high temperatures boiling the water in the brake fluid creating a compressible column of gas and spongy brake control. The highest likelihood of high temperatures is the brake pedal (due to proximity to the exhaust) and the calipers (due to frictional heating).
The ABS system on the Spyder was adopted from an automotive system, which typically receive far less attention than our Spyders.
Wayne
It's a bit easier to get at if you take the left front tire off...
Though the manual say you need BUDS, I have done at least 6 full brake fluid changes with no problems not using BUDS.
I always pump my brake pedal a few times to make sure I have good pressure before I turn the key on...
This is encouraging. My wifes 2008GS has the "double pump" brake pedal. It'll drop about 1.5" the first pump, then only about 1/2" the next and is really solid. She wants ONLY the 1/2" pump. I assumed the bike needed a bleed, but was terrified of the VCM. :yikes::yikes:! I'll have to search for some YouTube videos.
Steve
Do you know what all the BUDs process does? I don't. But after I had the brake line off the rear caliper and bled the rear brake I took it to the dealer for a BUDS check. I was thinking since Nanny is tied into the brake system there may be some calibration or resetting in BUDS that needs to be done to ensure that the VSS can do it's thing properly if it ever needs to. As I see it there are two aspects to the braking system, braking caused by pressing the pedal, and braking controlled by Nanny, especially the ABS. If you don't do the BUDS part of the procedure how can you be sure the Nanny part of the braking process will work properly?
Are you certain the Nanny will apply the brakes?
Nanny will unwind throttle input.
The computer, I guess it could be deemed the Nanny causing it, will attempt to prevent wheel lockup, via the ABS controller and wheel sensors and rings.
Never have I heard Nanny has the ability to apply the brake.
Of course it does.
https://youtu.be/77By0mM1qDA
Agree.
Did not interpret the other guys post regarding the rear brake to be focused on stability control in extreme manuevers and working the front brakes. Nanny does not have brake control of the rear wheel, except ABS.
There is another video also that explains all this and more a bit more in depth.
Your wording and discussion regarding the brakes simply misled me, especially as it mentioned the rear caliper. Sorry, my bad.
Not really. I just wanted to make clear to Purple Guy that even though he has experienced no issues with brake bleeding, if he hasn't checked things with BUDs afterwards he really cannot know it there is gremlin lying in wait to mess things up when he really needs the system to function correctly.
A simulated panic stop after a bleed or flush will cycle the ABS and push out the tiny bit of fluid it hoards.
Not recommending anyone do it.
Though, lots who have ABS bikes and prefer to do their own maintenance do.
While on this subject.....has anyone installed Speed Bleeders?
I'm very interested in Speed Bleeders. I just bought my F3 and I doubt it ever had any service to the brake system (only had 2100 miles on it when I bought it). Anyone have an idea what size the bleed screws are? I'll happily be the guinea pig.
How about if you had a bleed bottle with a check valve in it, for under $27.00?
It's a one person bleed system that works slick as a whistle.
I have leaned that the best way to order Speed Bleeders and get the correct size(s) is to do it by phone. Had I not phoned the order when I had my last bike, I would have ordered incorrectly. Lesson learned.
So are Speed Bleeders. I started working on my bikes and cars in 1952 and for decades, I could never get a really hard pedal or lever. Then I discovered that air seeps past the bleeder threads. Someone recommended Speed Bleeders because they not only have a check valve but also a substance on the threads that provides a seal when the bleeder is loosened. I tried them and have never looked back and got those hard pedals and levers I always wanted.