Printable View
I had a look at a 2017 RT Limited today and the heated grips didn’t get warm while idling for maybe a minute.
It’s still winter so I couldn’t try it on the road, but seller said he thinks they’ll heat up when the RPMs are over 2000 — does that sound right? I checked the owners manual but it doesn’t say anything about that.
Thanks,
Rod
The heated grips are one of the items that is fed through the load shedding relay. That relay turns on when the engine is running, so yes, they should heat up when it is idling. They don't get very warm very fast so maybe you just didn't wait long enough.
I don't let mine just sit and idle, but takes about a mile or two to get really warm.
Thanks for the replies!
And thinking about it a bit more, it dawned on me that there are foam wraps on the grips so that could be why I didn't feel them heat up.
It's been 9 years since I last had a Spyder and obviously didn't remember what the stock grips look like. :dontknow:
It's not the foam grips. I have them on my 2020 RTL and they heat up just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by RodO
I had my Spyder for a couple of winters before I added foam grips, and in cold weather, like down around freezing, it did take longer for the heated grips to be felt through the foam grips, but they still got nice and warm.
Same here. I had some thicker foam before, then I bought the thinner foam from Pierre (canamspyderparts.com). They still don't get as warm or nearly as fast.Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBros
On my 14 RT, I made my own grip covers from EDP foam (like on wet suits) and covered them with Deer skin .... I can feel the heat (does take a bit longer) at 45° + F ..... Mike :thumbup:
Mine will, but I am running old iron, if that makes a difference.
Same here on my '21 RTL.Quote:
Originally Posted by K80Shooter
I haven't dissected a set of Spyder grips, but if they are anything like motorcycle heated grips, it will naturally take a little time for you to feel the warmth. That's because the heating element is under the rubber grip, and it just takes a few minutes for the heat to conduct through that rubber. When it's cold out, I typically start the Spyder as soon as I get to the shop and turn on the grips then don my helmet and gloves. By the time I've done that, the grips are toasty warm.
I start my RT up, turn on the heated grips, put on a jacket, helmet and gloves while it idles. They warmed up on idle. So YES!!
Your voltage will be somewhat lower at idle than at speed. This will slow the rate of heating.
The 1330cc alternator generates about 30% more power at idling/slow speeds low RPM than at higher road speeds. I believe the alternator field strength is reduced at road speeds to improve mileage.
A caution: do not try to increase heated grip output by tying the Lo and Hi power wires together. All three grip wires (Lo, Hi, Gnd) are 20AWG so tying Hi and Lo wires together puts both their currents through the Gnd wire which will overheat it.
The solution is the P=EI equation so get a 12-19V buck convertor then feed it's output through a standard vest heat controller (they all can accept 19V) then into the grips Hi wires. You will still need to be careful not to overheat the grips themselves but they should accommodate the 30% increase 19V will provide.
I had the dealer install the BRP heated grips for the Spyder F3S and at -8C/20 F, with just one heat setting they are minimal at best built for the southern USA weather. Next step will be to adapt some sled type wind deflectors to fit the larger handle bars on the Spyder.
On the sleds you get multiple settings (throttle lever and thumb) and with light gloves and wind deflectors riding at -15C or slightly below I am usually set just above medium. On the older quad (Outlander) you have two settings low and high not so on the Spyder.
The hand warmers on the sleds and quads get warmer (from idle) with increased engine RPM as you do not reach full power in the charging system until 4000 RPM which may be different on the Spyder as Bert stated?