My post only applies to a very specific case, not shifting in general. By holding the paddle a bit longer when attempting to shift from 1st to N, I was unintentionally invoking a double shift. But, since I hadn't pressed the R button, nothing happened.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
Mystery solved!
As soon as I took off the front of the HCM, I saw it. When I manually shifted the bike into reverse from neutral when it wouldn't start the first time, I removed the shift lever. I should have removed the shaft. When I reconnected it, the hydraulic cylinder was all the way back. It should have been in the middle. I don't think I messed with the shifter when I had the shift lever off, but I might have. Since I took the HCM off the bike, I'm going go ahead and disassemble the hydraulic cylinder and inspect it. It doesn't slide from side to side as easy as I think it should. If I hadn't replaced the shifter and purchased the oil tester gauge, this whole ordeal would have only cost me about $60 to fix, but the paddle shifters are known to wear out and the oil pressure tester only cost me $40. I would have spent a lot more money if I had taken it to a Can Am mechanic.
I sort of owe you an apology. The damage might have been self-inflicted. I failed to mark the shift lever or the transmission when I removed the shift lever from the transmission. When I reconnected it, I trusted the gear shift shaft to be in the correct position, but it wasn't. It was stuck all the way back, as if the bike was trying to up-shift. I must have tried to put it into first gear with the shift lever disconnected. In my defense, I got the advice to manually shift the bike using a 13 mm wrench from a different Spyder forum. The user manual has it in there too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder
I commend you on your "sort of apology" it takes a big man to do this publicly ..... Put this in your memory log "Snowbelt Spyder is one of the smartest members we have" ..... JMHO ....MikeQuote:
Originally Posted by Cadaverdog
I know damn near everything about there is to know about the HCM now. I know you can test to see if the TCM is sending the signal to activate the solenoids using a test light. I know which pins on the 8-pin connector go to the individual solenoids. I know how to swap the up-shift and downshift solenoids and change the wiring to the 8-pin connector. I did that to see if the up-shift solenoid was bad. It wasn't.Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
:clap::clap: I have a friend that use to tell his kids, never deprive yourself from learning things the hard way!!:coffee: And from your mistakes we learn also, thanks for sharing!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadaverdog
It sounds like you found the cause of a problem that you introduced. Have you found the cause of the problem that you had in the first place?
Most likely the bike didn't start because I shut it off in gear. When it wouldn't start I removed the gear shift lever from the transmission without marking it. If the HCM relies on the transmission to push or pull the piston inside the hydraulic cylinder into it's neutral position and I hit the shifter while the gear shift lever was off the transmission, which is most likely what happened I inadvertently caused the problem when I reinstalled the gear shift lever in the wrong position. I didn't try stepping on the brake while I started it. I was not aware of that procedure or I would have tried that first. I'll find out when I finish messing with the HCM and put the bike back together. I'll be able to see the position of the piston until I reinstall the cover. If it still doesn't up-shift I'll keep on messing with it until it does.Quote:
Originally Posted by DickB
Glad you got this fixed ..... many, many folks here will say it doesn't matter if you put it in neutral when you shut the engine off, However I'm not in that camp ..... I ALWAYS leave it in Neutral before I shut it off .....JMHO ...Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadaverdog
It doesn't matter if you know to step on the brake when you start it. Unfortunately, I found that out too late. When I found out that I didn't have to put my foot on the brake to start it if it's already in neutral, I got into the habit of starting it up without getting on it, and then letting it run long enough to warm up the engine so that I could check the oil before I rode it. I'll try to remember to check the oil after I ride it from now on, if I manage to fix it so that I can ride it again. I took the hydraulic cylinder on the HCM apart today. When I removed the bellows, there was fresh oil inside. The piston linings looked OK, but since I have it apart, and I had to order new gaskets anyway, I went ahead and ordered new piston linings too.Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
I'm back in the wind. Not counting oil and filters (it needed an oil change), a new shifter ($50 - didn't need it, but I replaced it anyway), a service manual ($30), and an engine and transmission oil pressure tester ($40 Harbor Freight - might need it again someday), it only cost me $60 to fix my bike.
If I had taken it to a Can Am mechanic, it would have cost me more to diagnose the problem than it cost me to fix it, including the new shifter, the service manual, and the test equipment!
I could have saved $60 if I had just moved the gear shift lever back into the right position, but I rebuilt the hydraulic piston, and I replaced one gasket I tore taking it apart. Took it for a test ride; Shifted perfectly.
If you were to figure your own labor in your mess, I think you would have paid maybe less for this repair! :congrats:
And you would've had more hair left on your head too!!!
I'm retired. Fixing that thing gave me a reason to go outside and soak up some sun. I did most of the work sitting down. I've still have plenty of hair and being able to fix it myself gave me a feeling of satisfaction I haven't felt in quite a while.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey