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Is it reasonable for a dealer to charge me for two hours labor to install a Baja Ron saw bar on a F3-T? At the Nor-Cal rally I was told installation on an F3-T is much easier and quicker than on an RT, and takes about 45 minutes if you know what you are doing.
My is offering to buy me one for Christmas so I would like to know.
Thanks for replies.
I had one installed on my RT and only took 45min. Good luck.
If you really know what you are doing and are set up for it. This install can be easily done in less than 45 minutes on an F3. And you are correct. The F3 is by far the least amount of work of any Spyder model for the sway bar install.Quote:
Originally Posted by gnorthern
I would say there are 2 possibilities here. The dealership hasn't done very many of these installs (or maybe none) and they don't want to get shorted on labor. Or, they are just ripping you off (sorry to be so harsh. But it is a possibility).
This install does not have to be done by an authorized Can-AM / BRP dealer. Anyone who is set up to work on motorcycles/ATV's could do it. Some mechanics are a bit afraid of working on the Spyder. But for this install, it's pretty much a piece of cake.
Good luck. Hope you can find a more reasonable pricing on the install.
If you end up doing this install on your own to save money, it isn't that tough. I posted a thread in the general discussion folder about my install experience a few weeks ago. It has tons of info and recommendations in it. I think I called it "Tales from a sway bar install" or something similar.Quote:
Originally Posted by gnorthern
Two hours seems excessive for a dealer. That's about the time it took me to do mine, but most of that time was figuring out how to safely raise and lower the bike to the necessary clearance height.
Not a difficult process, you just need to be careful, especially when jacking up the bike.
If you're getting the bar as a gift: pop for the installation! It's worth it, and you'll be glad that you did! :2thumbs:
My 2 cents: Get it done at a Spyder Rally where there's an experienced installer on site. It'd even be worth it to make a special trip to a Springtime Rally just for that purpose. I'm guessing that in Salem, OR, you're not gonna be doing much wintertime riding anyway.
Caven
:agree:Quote:
Originally Posted by Caven
I called around and found that many of the dealers wanted 2 plus hours and when I asked how many they had done.....most had to get back to me??????? I asked several members of a local riding group and they pointed me to a dealer who only charged an hour labor including changing out the links, and they had done numerous changes. I have since done 2 of Rons sway bars with this dealer (NOTE:::: Ron is absolutely the best in my opinion to deal with and the best in performance on both an F3S and a F3L).
I would have done the change over myself but I was not able to find a suitable lift to get the bike up 24 inches.
So call around, if there charging 2 hours they possibly have zero experience in doing the install.
John
We only charge a half hour labor for install when you buy the bar from our shop.
Has anyone seen or posted a side-by-side photograph of the stock vs the aftermarket swaybar?
If you can get a couple of ATV ramps. Put them on a trailer, or something solid about 2 feet off the ground and drive the bike onto it. Put the parking brake and chock the back wheel and then do it yourself. I have changed 4 of them this way without any issues.
Photos like what you ask for probably exist. But they are of little practical use. Visually, the stock bar and my bar look nearly identical. I even had a customer return his 2008-2012 RS, GS, RSS bar kit after simply looking at it because 'It was identical to the stock bar he already had'. Amazing that someone would think I could get away with selling an identical product to what comes stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by deer30084
My custom bar kits are very unimpressive in the box. They are only slightly larger in diameter than the stock bar. Holding each in your hand you can tell the difference in size and weight. But with a sway bar this short and this small (diameter), a very little bit of change in the right areas will make a great deal of difference in handling.
Another misconception is that you have to be a crazy race fiend to appreciate a sway bar upgrade. While it is true that the harder you ride, the more you will appreciate a sway bar upgrade. Any riding style will benefit from a more stable, planted platform. Many who do not feel the need for a better sway bar have never tried one. I understand the skepticism. I appreciate a discerning customer. It is just that much more rewarding when I get the email or phone call saying; 'I should have done this a long time ago!'.
The tendency when comparing sway bars is to consider only the diameter in judging what you might expect in improvement. This would hold true if the other 2 parameters of sway bar design were the same. However, quality and characteristics of the spring steel and arm length also have a great deal to do with the final result. My bar kits employ changes in all 3 aspects.
For example. Many are installing take off, OEM RT bars on their F3 Spyder. Being a larger diameter bar using the same spring steel compound and arm length, you will get a noticeable improvement in handling on your F3. And, the diameter of the OEM RT bar is the same as my F3 bar kit, leading people to believe that they are getting the same benefit my bar provides. However, because I am using a different spring steel and arm length. My bar will give you about 50% more improvement than the OEM RT bar option on your F3, even though these bars are the same diameter.
Sway bars don't look like much. Pretty simple component. I thought the same thing when I started my sway bar project. But I found that there is much more to a sway bar than what meets the eye.
My sway bar kits are not impressive in the box. But that is OK because where you want them to impress, is on your Spyder.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...00+mile+review
Read my 30,000 mile review.
My dealer charged me a lousy $106.00 bucks to install and worth the chump change.
Darn, if we were a little closer I'd come up and do it for you. It's not a difficult job at all. The only hard part is the getting up and down off the cold concrete floor.
I hear you there. But if you have someone to hand you parts/tools as you go, it really makes a much easier/quicker install. Just be sure you're clear when they let the jack down! ;-)Quote:
Originally Posted by 2dogs
BajaRon: Thank you very much! Thank you for taking the time to write that explanation and description of your product.Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaRon
Mine went on yesterday.Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaRon
I will give my report when I get it back to ride a bit.
I expect to be impressed. :clap:
No problem at all. I don't expect the average person to understand what a sway bar does or how it accomplishes its task. Being in the automotive/motorcycle world for most of my life I thought I had a pretty good handle on this suspension item. But like many things in life, I ended up finding out how little I knew about a sway bar.Quote:
Originally Posted by deer30084
An informed customer is always the best customer. When you have a fair idea of what you want, and you know what the options are. You are much more likely to get what you need the 1st time.
From my experience from all that I have got from Ron you get the parts and a very easy to follow instruction sheet. Changed mine out on the RTL no time at all!! Thanks Ron!!:firstplace:
I was inspecting the links the other day and noticed the ball joints on them had a lot of rust and were frozen in place. I squirted some WD40 and they broke loose. I need to apply some grease regularly and keep an eye on them.
If you've ever spoken to a spyder owner who's experienced an OEM link failure, or have seen the photos of the results of a failure, you'd without question be thankful for Ron's replacement links. From a safety stand point, the links could be of equal importance or greater, than the bar it's self. Thanks Ron.....:thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by AY4B
I wouldn’t give him more than 1 hour and that’s a little fat. I did it first time in 45 minutes as others have said.
Thank you for posting that. I just focused on replacing the plastic links, improving the ride w better swaybar, didn’t even think about need to grease etc. Thanks for bringing that to my attention, guess I should check them every 6 months or so.Quote:
Originally Posted by AY4B
Just to clarify, when I get a new bar, I will have to grease the ball joints. Is that correct?Quote:
Originally Posted by AY4B
I'm asking for the bar plus installation.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman