2015 RTSE6 Looking to do a complete bleed out of the brake system. Is there an easy way to get to the bleeder screw on the VSS/ABS MODULE. I am using a mighty vac break bleeder. THANK YOU
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2015 RTSE6 Looking to do a complete bleed out of the brake system. Is there an easy way to get to the bleeder screw on the VSS/ABS MODULE. I am using a mighty vac break bleeder. THANK YOU
Do you have experience bleeding ABS systems ?
And do you have access to the diagnostic computer ? I think that is necessary to do it "right".
I believe there is a procedure. Maybe rear then left then right to bleed. If I can find my annual I will post.
Left front
Right front
Rear
VCM...located in the front of vehicle
You can do rear only but recommended you follow with the VCM...:thumbup:
for what it's worth...
i just bled the brakes on my F3 about 2 months ago, and DID NOT bleed the VCM.... i now have ridden about 1000 miles of smiles with NO ISSUES....
when i bled them, i used a vacuum assist unit, and pulled an entire bottle of Brake Fluid (32 oz.) tru the system... i would imagine that every bit of the old fluid has been replaced... NO computer codes came up, and my brakes feel better than ever now...
jmho
Dan P
SPYD3R
There will remain a wee bit of brake fluid in the ABS unit without using the BUDS to cycle the valving. Is that an issue? There is a certain amount that remains in the calipers that will not be purged out and that's the area subject to the highest heat, i.e., thermal break down of the DOT 4 fluid. The specs say to replace the fluid when it has water content of 4% or greater (see information related to the H-D recall for brake fluids).
The brakes are a closed system. There is no circulation between the ABS module and the calipers, rather a column of fluid. The reason to purge the brake fluid is to remove the potential for high temperatures boiling the water in the brake fluid creating a compressible column of gas and spongy brake control. The highest likelihood of high temperatures is the brake pedal (due to proximity to the exhaust) and the calipers (due to frictional heating).
The ABS system on the Spyder was adopted from an automotive system, which typically receive far less attention than our Spyders.
Wayne
It's a bit easier to get at if you take the left front tire off...
Though the manual say you need BUDS, I have done at least 6 full brake fluid changes with no problems not using BUDS.
I always pump my brake pedal a few times to make sure I have good pressure before I turn the key on...
This is encouraging. My wifes 2008GS has the "double pump" brake pedal. It'll drop about 1.5" the first pump, then only about 1/2" the next and is really solid. She wants ONLY the 1/2" pump. I assumed the bike needed a bleed, but was terrified of the VCM. :yikes::yikes:! I'll have to search for some YouTube videos.
Steve
Do you know what all the BUDs process does? I don't. But after I had the brake line off the rear caliper and bled the rear brake I took it to the dealer for a BUDS check. I was thinking since Nanny is tied into the brake system there may be some calibration or resetting in BUDS that needs to be done to ensure that the VSS can do it's thing properly if it ever needs to. As I see it there are two aspects to the braking system, braking caused by pressing the pedal, and braking controlled by Nanny, especially the ABS. If you don't do the BUDS part of the procedure how can you be sure the Nanny part of the braking process will work properly?
Are you certain the Nanny will apply the brakes?
Nanny will unwind throttle input.
The computer, I guess it could be deemed the Nanny causing it, will attempt to prevent wheel lockup, via the ABS controller and wheel sensors and rings.
Never have I heard Nanny has the ability to apply the brake.
Of course it does.
https://youtu.be/77By0mM1qDA
Agree.
Did not interpret the other guys post regarding the rear brake to be focused on stability control in extreme manuevers and working the front brakes. Nanny does not have brake control of the rear wheel, except ABS.
There is another video also that explains all this and more a bit more in depth.
Your wording and discussion regarding the brakes simply misled me, especially as it mentioned the rear caliper. Sorry, my bad.
Not really. I just wanted to make clear to Purple Guy that even though he has experienced no issues with brake bleeding, if he hasn't checked things with BUDs afterwards he really cannot know it there is gremlin lying in wait to mess things up when he really needs the system to function correctly.
A simulated panic stop after a bleed or flush will cycle the ABS and push out the tiny bit of fluid it hoards.
Not recommending anyone do it.
Though, lots who have ABS bikes and prefer to do their own maintenance do.
While on this subject.....has anyone installed Speed Bleeders?
I'm very interested in Speed Bleeders. I just bought my F3 and I doubt it ever had any service to the brake system (only had 2100 miles on it when I bought it). Anyone have an idea what size the bleed screws are? I'll happily be the guinea pig.
How about if you had a bleed bottle with a check valve in it, for under $27.00?
It's a one person bleed system that works slick as a whistle.
I have leaned that the best way to order Speed Bleeders and get the correct size(s) is to do it by phone. Had I not phoned the order when I had my last bike, I would have ordered incorrectly. Lesson learned.
So are Speed Bleeders. I started working on my bikes and cars in 1952 and for decades, I could never get a really hard pedal or lever. Then I discovered that air seeps past the bleeder threads. Someone recommended Speed Bleeders because they not only have a check valve but also a substance on the threads that provides a seal when the bleeder is loosened. I tried them and have never looked back and got those hard pedals and levers I always wanted.
does anyone have a part # for 2015 RT Speed Bleeder?
I sent them an email today. Witney replied and I've ordered Speed Bleeders for my F-250, CRV and F3 Limited.
F3
Front……SB8125L
Rear…….SB8125L
ABS Unit….SB1010S
Here is a copy of my order for my 2014 RTS...I have a ISCI hand brake kit...
Order Summary
Speed Bleeder Bag & Hose Combo SB9010 Speed Bleeder Bag & Hose Combo
$6.00 x 1
$6.00
SB1010S / 9407, H9407, 9497-2, H9497-2 Speed Bleeder SB1010S SB1010S / 9407, H9407, 9497-2, H9497-2 Speed Bleeder
$7.00 x 1
$7.00
SB6100 / 9417, H9417 Speed Bleeder SB6100 SB6100 / 9417, H9417 Speed Bleeder
$7.00 x 1
$7.00
SB8125L / 9405, H9405, 9422, H9422 Speed Bleeder SB8125L SB8125L / 9405, H9405, 9422, H9422 Speed Bleeder
$7.00 x 3
$21.00
That's a very fair price for the great convenience Speed Bleeders provide. Not to forget to mention the firm pedal and lever they give you.
Update
The SB8125LL does not fit into the F3 banjo bolt where the original bleeder comes out. I've sent in more information about the bolt to settle on what's going on. Now I need my wife to get home so I can have her help me bleed the air out of the line....
The reality is, I think you only need 1 speed bleeder to bleed these brakes plus one of the abs unit. Everything else I was able to bleed the normal way using one hand on the brake pedal and the other on the wrench.
I still intend to put speed bleeders on, but for those who want to be smart with their money, you probably don't need them on every fitting on the bike.
I have speedbleeders on the 2012 RTL...however not on the VSS/ABS....I don't have BUDS....I'm good with about a 90% fluid exchange. The BUDS can measure hydraulic pressure as well as other factors-I've been corrected by purists on this matter that it is important since afterall ya need to stop and other systems are tied into this algorithm-but we all get to make our own decisions -some good some bad. I'm happy for the most part. I'm not happy in comparing my 2014 RTS Brembo brakes vs my 2012 RTL brakes....the early brakes in comparison are poor. I know both Lamonster and BAJARON support the idea that changing rotors and pads on the pre brembo SPYDERS brakes can help increase functionality. Well-I don't think they could possibly get any worse so there's that thought.
speedbleeder.com has a chart on the web site.
I've used this https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0143 from Motion Pro for years and it works excellent.
There are a number of aids that make the bleeding process easier. But this won't get the ABS module bled. I am in the camp that it's not necessary. The amount of fluid in the ABS unit is relatively small. And the system is not static. The fluid gets moved around. So, changing it ever 2 years or so is going to keep the system more than clean enough.
Haven't bled the ABS on 1330 yet, but on the 998's I used a 1/4 drive socket with about 12" extension with a 1/2" socket. Took off tupperware on left side, lowered the socket down center front of the engine. Was able to put one eye on the bleeder and got socket on the bleeder. Cracked it open, made a mess (pump pedal tighten method), but all brake codes went away and pedal became rock solid. This was on a 2008GS, probably minute air builds up over many bleeds and pad changes IMHO.
Also to be fair not messing with ABS bleeding unless pedal is squishy with a fresh three wheel bleed. I change out fluid by pulling thru 3 wheel's bleeders until all fluid replaced.