Axle torque - how?

I have a 2011 RTS. I have had the tire changed, and the tech did not do a good job of aligning the belt. I have the wrenches and sockets and have done the belt tension and alignment. A bit tricky, but not impossible. However..........

I want to torque the axle to the 96 flb spec, but there is not a tool that I can find that will allow the torque wrench and the socket between the exhaust and the axle to torque it on the nut side. I even found a shallow/low-profile socket that is for oil filters, but it does not come with a 1/2 drive, and if you put the extension/converter on the wrench, the combination is bigger than just the regular 1/2 drive 36mm socket. I looked at several videos on YouTube, but no one addresses how to do the torque!!? In fact, it looks like most people just tighten it so it "feels" right.

I have read several posts here about the need to get an even bigger wrench for the later years that expect to use the 166 flb setting - I cannot even begin to believe that you could fit something even bigger in that space.

Is is OK to torque from the bolt (left) side instead?? That would make it a piece of cake, so that is what I did, but I want to know if there is another way.

Thanks to all in advance for the advise.

Bill

A “crows foot” wrench (Google that) or something like this...the square hole is for the torque wrench.

https://www.pitposse.com/pit-posse-3...le-wrench.html

Remember, though, that when you extend the arm length of the torque wrench, you must adjust the torque setting to account for that. The instruction sheet that came with the wrench would cover that.

I have one of these wrenches. It works great for limited space areas and to do the initial cinching of the axle nut, or to hold one side while using a bigger wrench/socket on the other side, but.... It only comes with the 3/8" drive hole. My 3/8" torque wrench only goes to 80 lbf, so it would not work. If you add the adapter, then it is still too big to put into the space between the axle and the exhaust.

In the "what-it's-worth-department," the instructions with this wrench says that if you put the opening for the wrench at 90 degrees from the handle of the torque wrench it is the same as using the torque wrench and does not require "recalibration." Here again, I tried to do this, but with the extra length there was no way to get the right angle to actually use the thing in this confined space.

....film at 11:00 :D

Works well with the 1/2 " torque wrench from HF. Just keep the open end at 90 degrees from the wrench and you have the same lever arm, so 96 lb ft for the older models, or 166 lbft for the new ones.

Hitch up your britches;)

Put the torque wrench on the other side of the axle.

You could get a 3/8 drive torque wrench.Harbour freight has them pretty cheap/

Bill, if the axle wrench adds 3” to the effective length of a 12" torque wrench, for example, then a setting of 80 ft/lbs on the wrench will actually deliver 100 ft/lbs to the bolt. So, it’s not necessary to keep it at a right angle. You use the extra length to multiply the torque the wrench can deliver. So, in this case, a setting of 77 delivers 96.25 to the bolt and you can use your 3/8 drive wrench. I only used 3” as an example here. I don’t know what the actual length your wrench will add. You measure that and then make the appropriate adjustment. You can make the same adjustment when using the crows foot if necessary. Keeping the wrench at a right angle isn’t a requirement.

Snowbelt Spyder: Thanks for this info. I am going to order the crows foot just because, but this means perhaps I can also use the wrench I have.

What a great resource this site is for all of us. (As long as you don't mention tire pressure or oil!!)

:bowdown:

Ryde safe

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bike-O-Din

Snowbelt Spyder: Thanks for this info. I am going to order the crows foot just because, but this means perhaps I can also use the wrench I have.

What a great resource this site is for all of us. (As long as you don't mention tire pressure or oil!!)

:bowdown:

Ryde safe

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I believe that specific axle wrench I posted extends by 2”. Thus, a setting of 80 will yield 93.33 ft/lbs of torque delivered: using the length of a typical 3/8” drive, 20 - 80 torque wrench is 12” from center of the drive to center of the handle. The axle spec is 96 +/- 5, so you could correctly continue using your wrench and be in spec. Or if you prefer, pull a heavy 80 with the torque wrench.....or set the wrench to 82.

There is an app you can get from the Google Play Store to calc the setting on the torque wrench. It is called Torque Wrench Extension Calculator.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bike-O-Din

I have a 2011 RTS. I have had the tire changed, and the tech did not do a good job of aligning the belt. I have the wrenches and sockets and have done the belt tension and alignment. A bit tricky, but not impossible. However..........

I want to torque the axle to the 96 flb spec, but there is not a tool that I can find that will allow the torque wrench and the socket between the exhaust and the axle to torque it on the nut side. I even found a shallow/low-profile socket that is for oil filters, but it does not come with a 1/2 drive, and if you put the extension/converter on the wrench, the combination is bigger than just the regular 1/2 drive 36mm socket. I looked at several videos on YouTube, but no one addresses how to do the torque!!? In fact, it looks like most people just tighten it so it "feels" right.

I have read several posts here about the need to get an even bigger wrench for the later years that expect to use the 166 flb setting - I cannot even begin to believe that you could fit something even bigger in that space.

Is is OK to torque from the bolt (left) side instead?? That would make it a piece of cake, so that is what I did, but I want to know if there is another way.

Thanks to all in advance for the advise.

Bill

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First off, rear axle torque has been updated to 163 ft lbs of torque. As Spyderann said, use torque wrench on opposite side and hold with nut with the wrench.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SpyderJerry

First off, rear axle torque has been updated to 163 ft lbs of torque. As Spyderann said, use torque wrench on opposite side and hold with nut with the wrench.

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That should have been 166 Ft Lbs of Torque,

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SpyderJerry

First off, rear axle torque has been updated to 163 ft lbs of torque. As Spyderann said, use torque wrench on opposite side and hold with nut with the wrench.

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Hey Jerry. A ridiculously high number that appeared in the owner's guides in 2014. I’ve never seen a service bulletin, TST, etc, nor received a revision to the owner's guide that documented that the new spec applied to 2013 and previous. If you, or anyone else for that matter, have your hands on it, PM me so I can get it or post it. In the mean time, my axle has been just fine since it came out of the crate...and if it ain’t broke......

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bike-O-Din

I have a 2011 RTS. I have had the tire changed, and the tech did not do a good job of aligning the belt. I have the wrenches and sockets and have done the belt tension and alignment. A bit tricky, but not impossible. However..........

I want to torque the axle to the 96 flb spec, but there is not a tool that I can find that will allow the torque wrench and the socket between the exhaust and the axle to torque it on the nut side. I even found a shallow/low-profile socket that is for oil filters, but it does not come with a 1/2 drive, and if you put the extension/converter on the wrench, the combination is bigger than just the regular 1/2 drive 36mm socket. I looked at several videos on YouTube, but no one addresses how to do the torque!!? In fact, it looks like most people just tighten it so it "feels" right.

I have read several posts here about the need to get an even bigger wrench for the later years that expect to use the 166 flb setting - I cannot even begin to believe that you could fit something even bigger in that space.

Is is OK to torque from the bolt (left) side instead?? That would make it a piece of cake, so that is what I did, but I want to know if there is another way.

Thanks to all in advance for the advise.

Bill

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Look on Amazon and you can buy 36mm wrench head that a pull handle or torque wrench hooks in side ways, with this you can put whatever torque your manual calls for! You have room between axle and muffer to get this wrench easily!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder

Hey Jerry. A ridiculously high number that appeared in the owner's guides in 2014. I’ve never seen a service bulletin, TST, etc, nor received a revision to the owner's guide that documented that the new spec applied to 2013 and previous. If you, or anyone else for that matter, have your hands on it, PM me so I can get it or post it. In the mean time, my axle has been just fine since it came out of the crate...and if it ain’t broke......

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So it is 2013 and up. I stand correc
ted.
Here is the response direct from the "horses mouth" Winggirl. The problem is, does "since 2013" mean from the start of 2013, or end of 2013? I'll see if they can clarify......and yes, it appears there are a number of techs out there still torquing 2014/15/16/17s to the old 96ft/lbs figure, which is a worry......either they missed to BRP update or the didn't get one.

Hi Peter!

Since 2013, the torque spec for the rear axle nut has been increased to 166 lbs/ft on all models. So this is the value we should be using.

Pete

I bought a 36mm, six point, 1/2 inch drive deep socket and cut it down with a chop saw so it fits on the nut-exhaust side.