Has anyone built a trailer to haul and Spyder & a two wheeler on the same trailer? Where/how do you start to do this?:dontknow:
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Has anyone built a trailer to haul and Spyder & a two wheeler on the same trailer? Where/how do you start to do this?:dontknow:
I have good news and bad news. I do haul a Spyder and 1-2 bikes together. That's the good news. The bad news is that I did not build the trailer, I use a 7'x12' V-nose enclosed trailer. For a heavier bike, over 500 pounds, I would recommend an even longer trailer. The key to this is figuring out the motorcycle/Spyder and axle positions, to keep the trailer balanced side-to-side and allow for adequate loaded tongue weight. 10%-20% tongue weight is normal. I personally prefer to have at least 15% for the best handling. I generally figure the center of gravity of the bikes and Spyder are around the center of the engine, for calculating the rough loading. With trailer dimensions and material weights, geometry will allow you calculate the approximate axle position and loaded tongue weight. I would not make things fit too tightly. It is typical to have to make slight adjustments in the loading positions to balance the trailer. After you find the right spots, you can then fasten down the chocks and place the tie-downs. Best of luck with your project...if you don't just buy a large flatbed or enclosed trailer and figure it out by trial and error.
I want to transport a Yamaha tw 200 with my RT and can't figure out if the lightweight trail bike should go in the front or back. I'm glad this is being addressed and scotty is on board. Any help would be appreciated. Also what is the best way to determine tongue weight after loading.Quote:
Originally Posted by NancysToy
Wouldn't you want the two wheeler sideways up front on a single axel trailer, and in the rear on a dual axel ??? Thats how I would do it. :dontknow:
I think placement of the 2-wheeler will depend upon overall trailer balance. As Scotty said, it's important to have 10-15% of the total weight of the trailer and load on the tongue.
To measure tongue weight I raise the trailer hitch to the height it will be when attached to the tow vehicle, and then either using the trailer jack or a 2X4, place the trailer tongue on a bathroom scale and read the weight. Weighing the tongue at towing height is important because tongue weight will vary at different heights.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dancogan
I do not think what you are saying is accurate. The tounge weight will be different once the load is on the trailer and compressing your trucks shocks. So the hieght surely will be different with the load. You will only be able to measure tounge wieght with the load attached unless I'm missing something ???
My truck drops about a foot in hieght when I attach the trailer to it.
If you're truck is dropping a foot in the rear (which you did not specify), your tongue weight may be too heavy for your truck even if the tongue weight is within recommended specs. Maybe you should consider a weight distribution hitch that shifts some of the tongue weight to the front axle of your truck and the (rear) axles(s) of your trailer. This will increase the truck's rated tongue weight and trailer towing weight & make the whole rig more stable, when set up properly. When set up properly, you should see both the front and rear springs of the truck settle down about the same amount when hitched & the trailer should have about the same clearance from the ground in front and back (level). If not set up properly, you could literally lift the rear wheels of the truck off the ground, so pay attention!Quote:
Originally Posted by arntufun
I am blessed to have a 20' enclosed Wells Cargo Cycle Wagon, which is a very nice trailer. It has tandem axles with 15" wheels, which gives the trailer a 7000 gross trailer weight limit. It's designed to carry 4 dressers. Kills my fuel mileage down to 8-9 MPG. Rarely trailer anymore because of the cost of fuel, but makes for awesome storage space...
Mark I'm not sure. I fill the bed of my truck with wood for camping and connect my Spyder camper to it. The rear of my truck definitly sits lower than the front.
I also have dual axels and 15 rims for 7,500 # gross wieght. But mines only 14 ' long. Say no more about the gas milage. I know all to well how much that costs. nojoke My Tundra is at 9 MPG towing my Spyder and camper.
I installed a set of Firestone RideRite airbags on my '05 Tundra because I have a slide-in truck camper. Maybe something like this will help your 'sagging Tundra'?
I am not a trailer expert, but the first thing I would do is load it all for travel, then slowly take it to be weighted on a commerical truck scale. It may be that you are over gross weight rating by the truck manufacter and Spring/tire weight rating.Quote:
Originally Posted by arntufun
Wood weights a lot. IMHO
Oldmanzues
My gross towing capacity is 10,100 #. I'm sure I'm close but my truck has the power to pull it. I might look into the wieght dist. system like Mark said. With a bed full of wood, spyder, camper and gear no doubt she squats.
I bet everytime you hit a bump the tonque weight changes,...that's why they are made not to pop off...Mike ...:thumbup:
Dropping a foot when you attach the trailer is a lot. But I did mean to measure the trailer tongue at towing height. I'd be curious to hear what your tongue weight is that causes the truck to drop a foot. If you drive at night your headlights would drive opposing traffic nuts! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by arntufun
Even with a bed full of wood and no trailer she still squats, not as much but it's noticable. Not as bad as this guys though !!! :roflblack:
Wow! It seems like some of you have done this. I'm looking at length and width. I have a 2001 Tundra and pull a 17' food heavy boat with it so I was thinking I could pull a motorcyle trailer also. And, I'm capable of building my own trailer. I was just wondering where to start.
OK, let's get back to the tongue weight and figuring out where to stick the load. First, a small bike like that could be loaded sideways up front, or in the rear lengthwise, alongside the narrow part of the Spyder. It could even be loaded sideways in the rear quite easily. I load the bike lengthwise in the rear with Nancy's Spyder, because it is easier for me to balance the load that way with my axle position. With my wider RT, I load the bike at an angle or sideways. If the heavier Spyder sits too close to the axle, or behind it, the front end of the trailer gets too light. A small bike affects the tongue weight less.
Assuming a single axle trailer, I would weigh the actual tongue weight empty, then measure from the ball to the axle center. That the tongue weight provided by the trailer, and you will add to that. For sake of argument, lets say you load a 500 pound bike, with its engine centered a foot in front of the axle on a trailer that measures ten feet between the axle and the hitch. The 500 pound downward force, a foot ahead of the axle, will push down on the hitch ten times as far away, at 1/10 of its weight, or 50 pounds. Add the trailer's tongue weight and you are probably still well within the 10%-20% desired tongue weight for the loaded trailer. To increase the tongue weight, move the motorcycle a little bit forward. To reduce it, move it a little bit back. Things get trickier with a two-axcle trailer, but in general the second axle reduces the tongue weight, and the trailer must be loaded further forward. If you still have your high school physics books, the chapter on levers will explain this better than I did, or you can find explanations on the Web.
Keep in mind that the trailer hitch and the tow vehicle have a tongue weight limits as well as towing capacity limits. The tongue weight must also be added to any load carried in the vehicle, and the total should not exceed the vehicle load limits. I suspect Arntufun's combination exceeds some of those limits...or is at least knocking on the door. A properly loaded truck rides reasonably level. BTW, if you tow with a pickup truck, you may just want to consider throwing the bike in the truck bed, and towing the Spyder alone on the trailer. I find that easier sometimes with a small bike.
Great info, Prof! I like the idea of the 2 wheeler in the bed of the truck but I have an enclosed shell on the bed so that wouldn't do. I was thinking of building one to where the spyder was closest to the tongue and the "yamaha" two wheeler right behind it. I just have to get my thinking right.
What bikes do you haul in your trailer with your Spyder? We have a 7x12 v-nose but not sure if it's workable to haul my Spyder and hubby's HD Ultra together....he says no. I've had my Spyder in it a couple times but haven't really devised whether or not it would work for both. :dontknow: Your thoughts?Quote:
Originally Posted by NancysToy
when I was 'young & dumb' (no, not yesterday)... I rented a U-Haul with a buddy and got a load of landscaping rocks. About half way home we hit a bump and both tires blew out. Turns out we had about 5500# in a 2000# trailer. U Haul was really mad !!!
I'm not sure if I could work in something as big as the HD Ultra or not. The width of the bike is the main problem, although length becomes an issue from a tie-down standpoint. For a bit more clearance the Spyder rear can be angled, and the bike loaded backwards. Lloaded on the left rear of the Spyder, it is fairly tight for a bike between the wall and the Spyder, but it does fit. Not a problem for getting the my BMW RT in, but no good place to tie it down, so I have not carried that with the Spyder. I could probably move the chocks for the Spyder and the bike farther toward the walls and sneak by, but I haven't tried. I have loaded my BMW R75/5 many times, though, as well as an additional small bike on the right side The best way to see if things fit is by trial and error. When you have an afternoon to spare, load things, and move them around, checking tongue weight and measuring the height at each side near the wheel to see if the load is even side-to-side. Part of the viability of this will be the actual size and shape of the trailer. My trailer is fairly narrow. It may be listed as 7' wide, but it is more like 6'8" inside, and 6'4" at the door cables. The wider the better. My V-nose is a full three feet deep, which allows the Spyder nose to fit very far forward, and leaves more room for bikes. Some v-nose trailers are only two feet deep or less up front.Quote:
Originally Posted by chickridin
Thanks for the reply. Reading this I think I have to give this one to hubby. :( I know what you're talking about with the trailer measurements too. Our trailer measurements are pretty much the same as your's.....but our nose is smaller, more like maybe 2' if that. I think they round those numbers up to make them sound bigger. LOL And your other bikes are smaller than the Ultra. We've been talking about getting an open flatbed trailer, and have found one we like, but not sure yet if we want to make the switch. We've got a couple months to think about it though.Quote:
Originally Posted by NancysToy
Am I correct that the RS will fit in a 5x? trailer, while the RT requires 5-1/2 or 6x? trailer?
Probably so, since the 6x are about twice the $ of a 5x... of course...
The overall width of an RS is 59", so theoretically one would fit a 5' trailer...but I'd never try it. Too little room for error! The RT overall width is 62", so it doesn't have a prayer. Keep in mind that advertised trailer widths are rounded off, nominal figures, so a trailer's available width can be more or less than its categorical designation. Intrusions like fenders, wheelwells, bracing, ramps, doors, or door cables will reduce the clear width, even if the bed is wide enough. Always measure the minimum clear width when considering a trailer for a Spyder. Don't go by the categorical or advertised width or length. They are just ballpark figures.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankPa