Ok, the Spyder arrived - the questions begin

So, after some time dealing with Imototorsports - see the thread on that - the Spyder has arrived. It was already starting to rain, and I didn't have a tag so I rode it a bit around the neighborhood just to test it a little. Starts, runs and seems to shift well so far. Since my 24hr return is up around 2pm, guess I'll be keeping it. So...

One of the hinges on the left side bag is broken. I've taken pics and sent them to the dealer so we'll see if anything gets done. You'd think they'd have seen that before it left service. If they don't take care of it, what's the best fix?

There's a Sena SM10 in the trunk. Form the online manual I found, it seems I need some BT headsets for this? What kind? Or should I replace it?

There's an Sirius/XM system in the trunk, with the antenna up on the dash. That's gotta go. Anyone need one?

The PO replaced the gas gauge with a voltmeter and the temp gauge with an oil pressure gauge, but the oil one is WAY too dim to see even with the clouds out like yesterday. How hard is it to change, and what would be a good replacement?

Short of taking things apart, how can I tell if the headlights/fogs have been replaced with LEDs?

While I was looking at the fogs, way up towards the front of them there's what looks to be a small light. looking inside it it looks like an LED in there. But it doesn't come on with the fogs or the turns, so what is it?

Don't see a tool kit under the seat. Is the OEM kit worth looking for or should I just make my own?

No idea when the last oil change was done so I guess that needs to be soon. The trans filter is supposed to be done at 28k, so guess I need to do that as well, but how hard is it? Might be easier to have the local deal do it?

Since we're "testing" things out to see how well we like it, so I'm not planning on any major farkles yet. I don;t have a garage, just a carport so in your opinion would a full cover be worth it, or just a half cover I can use wherever I park?

That's all I can think of at the moment. I'm sure I'll come up with more as I have more time to work on things. Thanks for your time and advice.

Edit: This is what I get for posting while at work, totally forgot the year/model. Its a 2014 RT-S.

Since I don't know what year or model it is. I'm assuming it's an RT with broken hinge. Doc Humphrey at Roadster reservations has a hinge fix kit. About 100 bucks. The little light next to the fog lights are blank. European bike only have a light there. That's all I can help with.

Tool kit - make your own. Go around the bike and get a tool for each fastener. There aren't that many.

Oil change - Look on YouTube.

Gages - Amazon is your friend

About the Sena SM10, "Motorcyle Dave" will be your best help for that. He is listed on the Home page as a sponsor/vendor.

Warhsuul, Have no idea as I don't get my 2014 RTS until 6/26 so I'll be monitoring your posts for answers. I don't know if it counts as farkel or not but one of the first things I'm going to get is the tire repair kit w/air compressor. There's a post here on the kit but I've lost it for now. Let me know what you think of the ride as you spend more time on it. I'm starting to doubt myself, if I made the right decision on buying the spyder as I sure do see a lot of post of things going bad on them. I need 3 wheels didn't want a HD, $$$$$, liked the looks of the spyder. Hindsight is telling me I should have put training wheels on the VTX, as it is bullet proof and simple.

You should keep that siriusXM on the spyder. The stock radio is useless. I would not be able to live without mine.




Dont worry. You only see the bad things about a spyder because that is what everyone writes about. You will fall in love with it. I gave up my Harley for mine and I have a 2015 Victory Magnum that just sits in the garage. My spyder is the most fun I have ever had.

First things first. If you don't know when last oil & filter change was and Imotorsports cant tell you for sure then do that now. then get hinge fixed. Now just drive it. When you come to the point you are use to it and you are enjoying the ride start to look at changing things but not until then. Live to Ride, Ride to Live!

So they got you covered on many points. The sena , the XM radio, Guages, broken hinge, etc
As to the difficulty in doing things depends on your ablities mechanically. The guages are fairly simple after removing the instument panel. Then just plug unplug replace with your choice. The trans filter is also not that difficult if you do minor engine work
full cover would be fine especially if not using for extended time
the LED lights are very bright and if you see another spyder just take a look at them. If yellowish not LED

Congrats on the new ryde...:clap: don't let the buying experience cloud your ryde as you will see how much longer rydes will wash that all away.:thumbup:

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Originally Posted by BearX16

Warhsuul, Have no idea as I don't get my 2014 RTS until 6/26 so I'll be monitoring your posts for answers. I don't know if it counts as farkel or not but one of the first things I'm going to get is the tire repair kit w/air compressor. There's a post here on the kit but I've lost it for now. Let me know what you think of the ride as you spend more time on it. I'm starting to doubt myself, if I made the right decision on buying the spyder as I sure do see a lot of post of things going bad on them. I need 3 wheels didn't want a HD, $$$$$, liked the looks of the spyder. Hindsight is telling me I should have put training wheels on the VTX, as it is bullet proof and simple.

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I agree with Joel. With any forum you read all the problems with the bikes. Which is probably less than 5% of the bikes. Most on here are out riding. I've had both 15 RTS and 18 F3L. Total miles 25k and no problems.

BearX16. We've had our 2013 RT for 5 years. It has never given us any trouble, even before the heat recall fix was done. Don't look for trouble because it will find you. Ryde and enjoy. Do maintenance and just ryde.

Look at my pic !
Leds on left on pic (pass side and halogen on other side).

Once you learn how to take panels off most things are easy to do. Just remember that on the RT everything starts with removing a mirror.

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Originally Posted by Chupaca

The gauges are fairly simple after removing the instrument panel. Then just plug unplug replace with your choice.

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Maybe, maybe not! It's an oil pressure gauge so most likely there is a tube going to an oil port on the engine.

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Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01

Once you learn how to take panels off most things are easy to do. Just remember that on the RT everything starts with removing a mirror.

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If your planning on doing work yourself, get the Magic mirror mounts or if your handy, make a clone of them. They will save you a lot of grief.

BTW I made a clone of them. Costs $35 or less.

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Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder

Maybe, maybe not! It's an oil pressure gauge so most likely there is a tube going to an oil port on the engine.

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Most modern guages are using a sensor and not running a actual oil line like the old days...The oil light on the spyder is actually for the oil pressure and has a sensor not a line some may tap into that sensor though I don't know if it would work on any guage...:thumbup:

How about a picture of the clone you made? What material you used? Nice to post that but even nicer to post some details about it. Will help other members on this board.

Put together your own tool kit in a nice tool roll bag. The standard tool kit that comes with most all new bikes is only good for driving a screwdriver point through a beer can if you break the pop top off.

The biggest favor you can do yourself is RTFM -- twice at least. There's a whale of a lot of valuable information therein.

I found a 2015 manual in PDF form and I've been reading that over a few times since I bought the bike.

The XM is going, I've had it in cars before and just don't care for it and I'm not going to pay for the service so just another thing I don't need on the tryke.

Same goes for the SM10. Doesn't seem like it's going to do what I want so I'll have to replace it with something. I don't like using the speakers on the bike so I'll need headsets with BT for the phones and intercom. I bought a cheap chinese model for myself a few years ago. It still works, but it wasn't the best. But for $35 I couldn't beat it.

Imotorsports is supposed to be sending me the replacement part to fix the hinge. They were going to try to get the local dealer to fix it, but I don't trust them and said I'd do it myself. There are some add on LEDs mounted to that part and I'm afraid the dealer would hose it up. I'll definitely be getting Docs hinge fix kit.

Not as worried about the oil gauge at the moment, it seems a little inaccurate. When warm, it shows 0 psi.

There might be magic mirrors on it now, I haven't checked. It's been raining off and on since Thursday.

Getting the panels off shouldn't be too bad - I've had a couple ST1300s and I help my brother with his Goldwing. One question about that, though - I don't have the little "air wings" under the mirrors, I have these large black vents. I understand they're aftermarket, but how do I remove them for maintenance?

I can see where I can put jack stands under the a-arms, but where in the rear?

Oh, almost for got - there's a BIG mount for a GPS in the middle of the bars. How can I get rid of it? I'm guessing there's wiring for it as well. Looks like the PO replaced the handlebar bolts with SS, but I think the ones holding the mount are much longer so they'll need to be replaced.

Managed to get a break in the rain Saturday morning and got in about 40 miles with the wife on it. Handles much better than the test ride I had on the '10 model and the 1330 is much more to my liking. It tracked straight when letting go of the bars and seemed to have enough traction even with the front Kendas. The rear is a Kumho Ecsta. Still decent tread on all of them so no rush to replace them as yet.

Rear lift point is on the 4" main frame member. I use a square of rubber tread to keep the jack from slipping off of the flat metal frame. As far as removing the GPS mount, it should be easier than breaking loose the original lock-tited handlebar bolts, but a 24" breaker bar with the right sized allen socket works well with a friend holding the bars steady. You might need to order the original bolts to replace them from Cheapcycleparts or your local dealer....

Enjoy the Ryde and wipe that silly smyle off your face;);)