5 Attachment(s)
2013 Spyder RS - ST Handlebar Swap
This swap will require a moderate mechanical ability. If your handy and have worked on motorcycles and/or cars you can handle this mod. The follow are the tools that you will need.
1. 10mm socket
2. 8mm socket
3. 7mm allen wrench
4. 5mm allen wrench
5. 3mm allen wrench
6. T-27 torx bit
7. straight screwdriver
First use the T-27 torx bit to remove the upper plastic body panel that covers the "backbone" and the side panel (where your knees would be).
Next use the 3mm Allen wrench to remove the black plastic covers on the underside of the handlebars. This will allow access to the 5mm Allen bolts to remove the actual handlebars.
After you have unbolted the handlebars with grips, throttle and (sm5) clutch still attached you can now remove the (4) 7mm bolts that hold the center piece of the handlebars on.
After you have removed the 4 bolts now turn the center piece over. Unplug the ignition switch by removing the rubber boot. The plug has (3) spot to squeeze to pull it off. There are (2) 8mm bolts that hold the black plastic piece that surrounds the ignition switch, remove them now.
Now there are (2) 10mm bolts that bolt the ignition switch to the center handlebar piece, remove them. After the bolts are out push the ignition switch through the hole so that you can grab the black plastic trim ring for the ignition switch. once you grab the trim ring turn it counter clockwise and pull. Now the ignition switch will be separated from the center piece.
Tug on the wires to the throttle and controls to find the wire ties on the right side (above engine) that are holding the wiring harness down. Cut the (2) wire ties so that you have mor play in the wires. You are now ready to reassemble using the Spyder ST center piece.
2013 RS to ST Spyder handelbar swap
Just finished replacing 2013 OME RS handlebar's w/ ST bars, everything fit good, a couple tips if swapping bars, watch for a 3/16 x 3/4 " +- spring when taking the ignition apart ,--- be careful when taking the trunk & seat cables off from under the bars , maybe ( lubricate a bit before removing especially if you end -up removing them a few times ) --- the left plastic cover that goes under the new ST bars has a split on one side (it is supposed to be there according to my dealer (its not broken)
FYI -- Also finished installing new floor boards , not exactly a great experience , cost more the web site stated, got different design than ordered, two small important screws missing & to top it off they supplied the wrong instructions.
2013 RS to ST handle bar swap
Great write up, thanks. I'm getting ready to do this swap... one quick question - why do we need to remove the body panels? Also, is it three total panels to be removed?
Much appreciated,
Bodgerist
Because the rule is you MUST remove at least three body panels to do ANYTHING other than dismounting from the seat and refueling!!!!:yikes::yikes::yikes::joke::lecturef_smilie::lectu ref_smilie::lecturef_smilie:
Finally swapped RS for ST Handlebars - thanks for the excellent writeup!
So, a year after buying the parts I finally made the handlebar swap. Thanks again for this excellent instruction set. A few comments:
- DO IT! If you have an RS, swap out the handlebars! It doesn't take away from cornering at all, and it causes you to sit in a much more comfortable, neutral position. Motored around for over an hour with the ST bars and felt nothing in my lower back. Zero fatigue, Zero discomfort.
- I agree with the earlier observation about the ignition pod. Once you remove the two 10mm bolts and remove the bar with threaded holes, you can lift the whole pod upward toward the direction of the ignition key and just rotate the top boss 1/6 turn counter-clockwise to unlock and remove it. Then the whole pod comes out.
- I recommend buying new bolts for the handlebars and the handle tube clamps - the manual recommends to do so, and they come with loc-tite pre-applied.
- The left hand side ST handlbar plastic cover was definitely a bit of a challenge to install. I finally got it by installing first the lower and back sides, then forcing the forward half around. The plastic is really bendy.
- Routing of the wires on the left hand side goes forward of the hollow. It will all tuck into the plastic cover, except the clutch cable which has it's own recess in the plastic.
- Handle tube clamps get 89 in-lbs of torque to install. Handlebar bolts get 28 foot-lbs. (P604 of the manual)
- You'll need a total of 8 of the small bolts that hold the plastic covers on - you'll only have 4 from the RS.
- My ST handlebar was used and didn't have the green metal cable retainer clips. I reused the ones from the RS, but found there was a clash when installing the left plastic cover, so i removed the clip and just tucked the cables in.
- This took me a total of about 4 hours, but I work extremely slowly.
- Did I mention to make the swap? Do it!
Best of luck,
Bodgerist