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I have a 2015 Limited and I am stuck 15 miles from home and 100 miles from the nearest dealer which most are closed today.
My parking break will not release. The red light flashes until I press the brake release then it goes solid but the break will not release. Then when I turn the key off it beeps as if the brake is not set. Any suggestions on how to get it to release?
Until someone with a lot more knowledge responds to you, I would try pressing on the foot brake as you release/engage the parking brake. The other thing I would check is to see if there is a fuse for the parking brake that you could pull. Sorry if this doesn't help! I am sure there is something mechanical you can adjust/loosen, but I am not savvy enough to tell you what that may be.
Had the same problem to get back on the road use a 12mm wrench right side rear to release the parking brake cable you can leave it undone to get it home or dealer. Remember if you stop somewhere you will need to chock the wheels. Mine ended up being a switch failure. Note: Your regular brakes will still work for stopping.
I now carry a 12mm with me just for this reason.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SOlsenPHS
i have this happening randomly on my 2016 RT-S--- i remove cable from rear wheel--- reinstall--- so far this has worked every time. maybe 3-5 weeks between this happening... no codes.. have no fix just this bandaid... maybe someone has had dealer diagnose and permanent fix this...i carry 2- 12mm... sad reality..
let us know when/if dealer fixes...
March 20, 2019
In a follow up to the above post, regarding the parking brake. all the same conditions and beeps as previously. I have been removing it from rear wheel stay and then the front pulley is able to turn and work normal. Retighten back to factory set and have fun riding… for a while—maybe few weeks, then lock on again…remove cable…repeat. Last week, the front pulley rotated so much, no way to remove from rear mounting point. I removed the rear parking brake stay from the “hub”, and also removed the pulley wheel up front to release the cable. Dealer said may be parking brake switch, so I replaced. Now when remounting front pulley… manual states to hook up to BUDS…….Set pulley at its reference. Wondering if this was the problem all along? Bike is 2016 RT.. under warranty…except I live in Hawaii… Can am has no support in this 50th state… I can ride everyday…that’s how nice the weather is and I often do, but this type of small problem keeps the bike on jack stands!
If anyone has any insight into this I appreciate the feedback…trying to avoid dropping 1k on Buds program. If this can be fixed without it. At this point confused as to procedure. Also if anyone is has suggestions for service when far from dealer…for example… licensed shop… work on it and Can am honor warranty of their product??
Thank you all for any thoughts on this problem…seems like a defect…mmmm..
Thanks for the help....How expensive was it to replace the switch?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chasinsparks
Not sure as mine was covered under warranty.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SOlsenPHS
Either the switch or the motor. Possibly the cable. Remove from rear caliper. Try switch. If cable moves, cable ok. If nothing moves, but cable is not pinched or bent or stuck, remove side panel. You will see motor and front pulley. Remove cable, test for movement. If cable moves freely, try switch. If nothing happens, use a voltmeter to see if power is going to the motor. If yes, motor bad. If no, switch bad. Replace.
FWIW, after reading the few posits regarding this, I tried to listen for the servo motor (if there is one) while pushing the "P" button & heard nothing . So I took a bigger screwdriver & tapped around the the "P" button. this worked. So the switch must have been simply sticking.Quote:
Originally Posted by SOlsenPHS
My 2018 RTL had an issue with the PB today. Was running some errands and at one point when I was going to get going the PB wouldn't let loose. I tried walking around the block with the key, I tried depressing the brake hard enough to release the floorboard and nothing. I was able to release the cable and ride home. I just checked it and it's working fine. I have a service appt set up for next week and I'll take it out and see if I can get it to go bad again.
Now one thought, I have Tried-axis handlebars and the Spyder tech had a brioken shoulder and supervised another guy to do the work leaving him to put it all back together. I got it home with missing bolts and wrong bolts used and I'm wondering if some wires are pinched or something? Guess I'm carring a couple of 12mm wrenches and packable wheel chocks just in case.
Not a common problem, but I see more posts on this brake problem since my 1st bout with it a couple of years ago.
Happened to me 3 times and was eventually fixed under warranty by the dealer. Parking brake motor was the culprit.
Took my 2018 RTL in and the dealer has confirmed the PB motor is bad and now I wait for a new one. Luckily it will be a rainy couple of weeks. A friend tells me he’s heard of 4 others that have had the motor go bad.
Frankly I wish they had a manual parking brake. Too much electronics will eventually give u grief.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eckhard
and we're seeing toooo much of that already.
I had a list of members last year with the same complaint, that numbered 14.Quote:
Originally Posted by Flamewinger
We started with 2 Spyder RS in 2009 and both had problems with the manual parking brakes ... they were not stable ...
just had to have wifes 2018 rt parking brake engine replaced i know thats what the service tech said it was called
Just dropped my 16 RTS off at the dealer with the same issue.
Got it back, dealer said BRP told him to do a couple tests, and when they were done, told him to replace the brake motor.
I have a 2017 RT. My park brake wouldn’t unlock today, took linkage off so I could get home, got it home, it started working. Hooked linkage back up, still worked, came in to eat lunch, went back out to park it, wouldn’t unlock again. I guess I’ll have to take it to dealer and hopefully they can figure it out. It’s still under warranty. Sounds like there’s something wrong with this setup.
April 30 2019
I have posted earlier... see text from it below this new entry... I have not had a single problem since the repair noted below.... will advise it it goes south...however worse and worse front vibration when braking... think its warped discs... have EBC with Pads on the way...will advise when installed. thank you all for the information and brotherhood
i have this happening randomly on my 2016 RT-S--- i remove cable from rear wheel--- reinstall--- so far this has worked every time. maybe 3-5 weeks between this happening... no codes.. have no fix just this bandaid... maybe someone has had dealer diagnose and permanent fix this...i carry 2- 12mm... sad reality..
let us know when/if dealer fixes...
March 20, 2019
In a follow up to the above post, regarding the parking brake. all the same conditions and beeps as previously. I have been removing it from rear wheel stay and then the front pulley is able to turn and work normal. Retighten back to factory set and have fun riding… for a while—maybe few weeks, then lock on again…remove cable…repeat. Last week, the front pulley rotated so much, no way to remove from rear mounting point. I removed the rear parking brake stay from the “hub”, and also removed the pulley wheel up front to release the cable. Dealer said may be parking brake switch, so I replaced. Now when remounting front pulley… manual states to hook up to BUDS…….Set pulley at its reference. Wondering if this was the problem all along? Bike is 2016 RT.. under warranty…except I live in Hawaii… Can am has no support in this 50th state… I can ride everyday…that’s how nice the weather is and I often do, but this type of small problem keeps the bike on jack stands!
If anyone has any insight into this I appreciate the feedback…trying to avoid dropping 1k on Buds program. If this can be fixed without it. At this point confused as to procedure. Also if anyone is has suggestions for service when far from dealer…for example… licensed shop… work on it and Can am honor warranty of their product??
Thank you all for any thoughts on this problem…seems like a defect…mmmm..
I have the same problem. the dealership is replacing the motor.
Ditto,ditto,ditto. Mine at the dealer last two days. Had brake light come on many times, but would release by itself. This time wouldn't release. Had to have it towed on flatbed. Waiting to hear from dealer, Broward Motorsports. Why hasn't BRP handled this problem? It has been going on for many years. Should have been a fix by now!! Thanks for letting me vent. :banghead::banghead:
Let the beeper run until it stops by itself, then turn on key and it should be good to go....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chasinsparks
where is the parking brake cable located? I need to disconnect the parking brake cable because it's stuck..thank..if you can provide images that would be great. thanks
post 3
Right side of bike, just behind the muffler. Loosen jam nuts holding cable to bracket. Pull cable out of bracket after you blocked the wheels. On the end of the cable, there is a little ferrule in a bracket that activates the parking brake. Remove cable from that bracket, and return the cable to where you found it. Ride. If you need more help, call me. My number is below. JoeQuote:
Originally Posted by SpydieRoe
While I have not yet experienced the stuck PB problem yet, I'm going to be prepared in case it happens.
Harbor Freight has a pair of folding wheel chocks for just $8. Here's a link.
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piec..._q=wheel+choke
Good idea, we use those same ones but don’t forget to carry the wrenches you need to release the brake.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueRibbon
Same problem with my 2018 rt, have had other problems also, thinking about trading it in on a Harley trike. Tired of this, most unrealizable and dealerships are few and far in between.
This is an older thread. Goes back to 7/2018. Last post was 9/2019.
To hosed down my spider F3, stop at the wa wa . Came back out to ride off could not move because the parking brake would not release, called for a tow costed me $144.00 driver said it's been happening a lot so I now have my 12mm wrench. Unhooked the cable after getting back to the house it's releasing now Should I take in for service. I only have 3000 mile on the bike. Did a oil change and filter.
Joe thank for your reply will give anymore problems :2thumbs:
You will miss the quality ride of the spyder vs the pickup truck ride of the HD trike.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wykoni
Hi all. I'm new to this forum and a 1st time Spyder rider/owner. I've had my 2018 F3-T for approx two months and have had the parking brake fail to release four times. After the last time, the cable disengaged from the pulley. From what I've learned from the knowledgeable members on this site, apparently, BRP doesn't care and I don't trust dealers. My question is; Has anyone seen, heard of or thought of a mechanical brake to replace the electric brake? My solution has been a wheel chock from Harbor Freight and it works just fine. I live in SoCal and can ride almost everyday. I'm not willing to have my trike sit at the dealer to repair a problem that, most likely, will raise it's ugly head again. I rode two wheels for over 40yrs and I love my Spyder. Should have gotten one a long time ago. Thank you for your comments.
Mine doesn’t always come on?
It took six weeks to get into the dealer and they can't find a problem. I guess from the posts instead of paying a dealer to fix the problem, carrying a wrench and a wheel chock from harbor freight is the best solution. Two hundred dollars to be told that they don't know is not satisfactory! With this many bikes having the same problem Can Am needs to address the issue.
We have rocked the bike back and forth, then start. This worked for us several times.