:agree: It'll come right out the back...
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:agree: It'll come right out the back...
:agree: . . . the problem is getting air in so it flows around the areas that are cooking, now.
That's what the idea of some fans are for...
Or some hoodscoops and additional ducting....
I have been reading about these heat issues that some of you are having and some are not. So here is my theory I
worked in Manufacturing for 20 years ( Aluminum forging ). The company i worked for made, automotive parts, Motorcycle
parts,BRP Seadoo parts etc.. So when i look at the ones that are having heat issues i think about, what area they live in ?
the components on there spyder what specification range they were made at ? upper or lower range ? The reason why i
am saying this in our process with certain parts we made, even though we made them to blue print, sometimes if parts are
produce closer to a higher tolerance would cause a problems when they were put on a vehicle. Also at times we had tooling problems
that caused variation in our process therefore you may have parts that's made on low specification and some high. In manufacturing
you can be making 1 bad part out of 4 and not catching it sending it straight to the customer .
:agree: Agreed, more air flow IN is needed, but also need to be expelled. We installed a smaller fan on the engine bay vent under the left side mirror to help with this very issue & it works well. Will be installing another on the other side to double the effect. :2thumbs:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...1&d=1381325985
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...9&d=1381325973
could wrapping the cat converter with heat tape help at all. hot air rises and the cat does get pretty hot. this is in lieu of not removing it
Difference between Experience and Opinion- Opinion seems logical, but reality isn't :hun: Especially when you are quoting out of context. I have seen all your mods and they are well done and I may try some in the future but I and others have 5yr warranties to worry about and refuse to go much beyond where we have gone without BRPs approval and agreement it will not void the warranty. I also don't want to spend gobs of money redesigning the wheel. Your last sentence is what I have been saying all along it is what we are dealing with and I actually own one and have used your pics to compare the guts. The bottom plates you refer to are totally different in the 2013 than your year including the swoop. The aftermarket support for cooling the 2013 is slim and probably will not get much better since it really is a one off. There is some logic for you :thumbup:
Sorry, I don't know what I took out of context as I copied your statement as you wrote it and only replied to what I had experience in dealing with that may help another. In no way am I trying to argue with you or anyone, I'm just trying to offer our experience in dealing with (I know, NOT THE SAME, but somewhat) similar issues (heat) and what's been tried and what has worked for us. I realize the 2013's & prior year RTs are different, but a $15 deflector panel being removed from the bottom is NOT that major of an undertaking (at least on the 10-12 models) for most of us & it did help in most of our situations with prior year RTs.
If no one tries it with a 13 then no one will know if it would help or not. And this mod is free, except a little of your time and work to do. If you don't like the result, or need to take the unit in for servicing, then just replace the panel before heading to the shop, and they'd be none the wiser.
Like most of you out there, I too still have a warranty until 2016 on our unit to consider with the same possible implications. But I chose to do (with help from many members on here providing their guidance along the way, just like what I'm trying to do here) what I've done to make our ryde better suited for us & not sitting around and waiting for BRP to act, and that was our choice just like it is yours. IN NO WAY AM I SAYING EVERYONE SHOULD DO OR TRY THIS, I'm NOT. I'm just trying to relay information & our personal experiences to those that are seeking it. To each their own, we all have alot of money tied up in our machines, and we each must do what we think is right for us.
2013 RT-SE5 #'s 464 & 474 are the deflectors in reference:
http://parts.spyder.brp.com/cgi-bin/...&ilIF=P&ilRE=8
2011 RT-SE5 #'s 43 & 44 are the deflectors in reference:
http://parts.spyder.brp.com/cgi-bin/...&ilIF=P&ilRE=8
I hear ya and appreciate your efforts you have done some good work but we do not have the under swoop plate that previous years do and I am hesitant to butcher it (swoop)up.I actually think some of the excess heat is due to the new swoop inducing heat into the engine area.I would take the bottom plate (if it were there ) off that in a second. The can fan does not fit a 13. The interior issues are something imho BRP should be trying to figure out. Some components have moved but not that much so I really believe it may be a programing or sensor issue. Why does the ambient temp always read higher than it actually is. The sensor on my truck is at the same height and shows the correct temp out side. BRP's shows 5+ degrees hotter which obviously affects the mapping. Maybe it needs moved to a cooler spot:dontknow:. I will continue to look at options but after looking at my frame and skid plate I am hesitant to expose the wires and engine to the damage those have received in 2k miles. I have the Green Manual so I see everything you showed. In all reality the ball is in BRPs court and all indication tell me the are trying to hit the ball, maybe not as soon as we like , but they are trying. Thanks for you insightful input.:thumbup:
Guys.... :shocked:
I'd much rather see us all attacking the problem... :shocked:
Has anybody given further thought to mounting a scoop under the belly of the bike? A low-profile hoodscoop wouldn't impact ground clearance too much,,, Since it'd be hidden; a simple piece of aluminum could be bent to whatever shape one wanted to try... :dontknow:
I think any scoop under the bike would either be too small to be of much use or so low as to get ripped off at the first good bump. I know it's not unusual for me to scrape the bottom of the bumpskid about once a week, so anything that low or lower would probably be ripped off.
Actually, Magdave alleviated his perceived heat problems with judicious use of reflective tape and foam backed aluminum foil. He describes this in post #119 here. At one time there were some really good pictures, but they are no longer there.
not that I want to get in this battle, but: any thought to putting the "scoops" over the existing vent holes under the mirrors and putting the fan or fans at the bottom rear of the machine to pull the air thru ? it would seem that if you put the fans in the vents under the mirrors and push the air out : your pulling the hot air from the motor and exhaust more toward the operator. just a thought--I am by no means a mechanic or engineer, just an old retired carpenter !!! :doorag:
That's where this thread started... ;)
I haven't figured out how to post a new post, so I'm trying tyhis. BRP had my dealer install the new scoops on my 2012 RT LTD on Saturday as an accommodation to me at no cost. I can't say enough GOOD things about BRP. They addressed my problem with no trouble, took care of me as well as any company could, and my problem is solved. I am a very happy camper.
Seth
Wow... this is an old thread you have dug-up.
Coming direct from the horse's mouth, you are correct in that BRP will provide any RT owner free scoops installed at no cost if they go to their dealer and request them due to heat issues.
Some believe they have to pay for the scoops; or have been told by dealers they have to buy them. This is not true. BRP pays for them, plus for the installation. If a dealer states you have to buy them, then move on to another dealer, unless you want to push the issue with them.
(This info is not related to 2013 models, which have had a recall to receive more than just the scoops.)
A final point... when re-reading through this thread there was much speculation as to whether scoops would help. I can attest, they do help.
They do not fully resolve the heat issue; but heat is decreased with the added air-flow to the engine when moving. They also provide an outlet for hot air to escape upwards when at a stop. They are definitely worth having put on.
When Pyder was down with additional limp mode problems, I mentioned to my dealer that I would like the Heat Management mod installed ( I offered to share cost) and BRP absorbed the entire cost as a warranty item. At least that is what appeared on the invoice. Oh, Pyder is a 2011 RTS with about 56K.
Patrick
I do not have it in writing; but it is true. Go to your dealer and tell them you want the air-scoops installed because of heat on your machine.
Do not let your dealer tell you otherwise. Force them to call on the issue. If they do not; then find another dealer. There are plenty that know about this program.
There may be a time limit on how long BRP will offer this, so do not wait long.
(On another note; were you at Potosi's Beer Festival a few weeks back? We stopped-by that day and ate at the brewery's pub.)