I updated a few more suggestions to this basic "beginner's list" of Do's and Dont's that hopefully will save some people unnecessary grief, and possibly further their enjoyment of their Spyder...:thumbup:
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I updated a few more suggestions to this basic "beginner's list" of Do's and Dont's that hopefully will save some people unnecessary grief, and possibly further their enjoyment of their Spyder...:thumbup:
Thanks for the advice! Especially the shift points!
Well I put my RT in trailer mode and was surprised on how high the RPM was
before it allowed me to shift and also it downshifted much sooner.
I know I was guilty of keeping the rpm to low just for a quieter ride.
I'm thinking maybe I should leave it in trailer mode all the time with or without trailer.
What other things other than rpm does trailer mode tell nanny to do to the Spyder?
Unofficially from what I understand and have read (because I did read the manual from cover to cover as in Rule #1); is that the "trailer-mode" basically lets your RTS-SE5 know you are pulling a trailer; thus many factors come into play with the handling and power of the Spyder.
Beside changing the shifting points (to higher RPM points to save the drivetrain from undue stresses), it also affects your braking, stability and traction control systems as well. Overall then the nanny system could kick-in quicker when it detects something exceeding the Spyder's ability to remain within specific ranges of operation and safety.
Thus, I don't know that you want to always run in the trailer-mode. It simply was a suggestion to help understand how high the RPM's can go by design without causing problems.
too many new riders that has not read this grate thred so bump to the top lits help out some moore new riders.:thumbup::chat:
Yes. The only time you'll want to shift to 5th gear is when you are cruising at a constant speed above 65 on level terrain.
Too many people think that since a vehicle has 5-gears that they always need to "get to" the highest gear. That thought process is wrong, and can be at the root of several problems for a vehicle later-on as the added stress to the drivetrain can cause eventual failures.
Re-read the updated version of the list regarding RPM's.
I never shift until I see the 5,100 RPM range. That includes all gears, except maybe first to second, of which I shift in the 22 to 28 MPH range. Otherwise... it is at the 5,100 RPM range.
What you will notice is that your Rotax engine will actually run quieter, smoother, and have more power at your disposal at the throttle.
I have noticed many Spyder owners lugging their engines trying to get to the next gear as soon as possible and then cruising around in 5th gear with the RPM's in the 3,000 range. These people should be treated as poorly as they are treating the engine and drivetrain! :rolleyes:
EDIT: Also you may find when operating at higher RPM's is you will not have the belt-vibration problem commonly heard about from Spyder owners. My first thought when reading about belt-vibrations is that these individuals are likely running at too low of RPM's most of the time for the gear they are in. Belt vibrations typically occur in the 5,000 to 5,500 RPM range. At that RPM range, the Spyder should be in 4th gear if you are cruising at that pace. Higher RPM's while in the "right" gear doesn't guarantee no vibrations; but you'll find belt vibrations are very infrequent.
Try this advice for a while and see if your experience with your Spyder doesn't "go-up" a notch or two. I believe it will...
READ THE OWNERS MANUAL!
Wait two days and read it again!
Wait one week and read it AGAIN!
I am finding answers that even the dealer service department cant answer! This stuff is not in their heads.
Read it for youself! You will be glad you did!
I just spent 3 hours waiting for my bike to be fixed when, after reading the manual myself, I discovered it wasnt even broken!
I did read the manual when we got the Spyder but it is unlikely you will memorize it the first time!
READ THE MANUAL!
This thread is very useful the new owners to say the least. One of the best threads i have read yet. I picked up my spyder yesterday morning, but before i did i had already read this thread 2 times. Now i find myself back here this morning reading it again just to make sure i soak up all the info. I have also read the owners manual twice and watched the dvd once. You can never have to much info on this machine. and i believe if you read this thread and treat your machine with respect it will last you a long time and save you time in the process.
I've had a few responses to this thread and have added a few new pointers to update the list -- especially shift-point suggestions for the RTS-SE5; as requested. Other Spyder models may have different optimal points.
As a part of due-diligence... this list on the first post is merely suggestions based on various resources. You may find some ideas can be slightly modified for your personal needs.
Remember last rule on the list though... :thumbup:
Check your battery cables, fuses, and such often. Anytime these get loose from vibration... the Spyder acts badly.
I have heard much said about loose battery cables and fuses creating problems. Couldn't the battery cables have some kind of connector that assures they are always tight but at the same time removable? Couldn't fuses be replaced with breakers? Am I missing something? It seems from my reading this has always been a setup issue with less than scrupulous dealers.
I had an experienced biker tell me recently: " the perfect curve or turn is the one where you adjust your throttle and gear choice to the right speed going into the turn to not even need the brakes. Just a gentle float around the bend is what you are after." this has turned out to be good advice. I spend much less time on the brake and much less time have to " manage" the bike in a turn. Makes riding more enjoyable.
brakes ?????? not unless absolutely required, back off the throttle before the turn and accelerate out of it, man just did a 5400 km trip through the mountains, and it was awesome, even in the rain.
Extremely good points. In addition to reading and rereading your manual, you may want to watch the DVD that was included with the purchase of the spyder. Yes, it may be review for most of us, but for some one new to the spyder or motorcycling, it does contain valuable info. Dale
Good info
Thank you for posting this! it is very helpful.
This forum is absolutely great. What a wealth of information and experience and nice, friendly people to discuss issues with. I was a victim of violating #14 as I used to ride big heavy 2-wheelers and I gripped hard and handled hard. A guy with a lot of Spyder experience finally told me to relax and treat the hand grips and steering "smooth and easy". When I tried that and got used to it the Spyder just relaxed along with me and has been a joy to experience ever since. It is amazing how little effort it takes to enjoy this fine machine. I was also advised to keep the RPMs high (5,000) and I tried that and found the bike was much happier. The Battery Tender point is a good one too. They have a harness you can hook to your battery with a plug that is easily concealed that makes it very simple to hook to your Tender. Your battery will last much longer with that. Keeping it at a healthy level means a lot. Keep sharing great advice for us newbies everybody. We appreciate it.
I guess in Texas they do things way different, here in Canada where I live all vehicles must have a PDI Pre Delivery Inspection or your (get ready person). These inspections are mandated to be done by a full papered Journeyman-woman no exceptions. I know the can am dealer here all the Spyders are set up by the Journeyman as well. Think about the liabillity a shop would have if the oil change person set up a bike and it was sold and some thing went wrong, no way would a self respecting shop allow this.
Great post a nd a goodd reminder to all. I have always promoted the higher rpm shift and cruise. No problems through my first RS and now on the RT-S.
I didn't know about the brake fluid, so thanks for that. also, I never had to worry about the battery tender, but I don't think using one would hurt anything. (has anyone tried one of the solar chargers?)
Great thread... What about inspection? Does anyone know about wah it costs and is it covered under any of the warranties?
I am not sure what an "inspection" would cost; but am most assured it does cost something. It would take time to do a good inspection... and "time is money".
My dealer goes through a list they use whenever I take it in. Also there is a list of scheduled items to inspect in your manual (which has recently been upgraded for those with older manuals prior to July '12).
I look through the manual's recommended list and copy it. I take it to the dealer with me when they work on it. I tell them to verify they have gone through the items; plus whatever else I ask them to look at. So far they seem to be doing all right by me. But I still watch closely, because inspections can be "fudged" easily by dealers.
take it to the top a lot of new riders need to read,grate thred.:clap::2thumbs:
This is a great thread.I have followed the original advice which was extremely helpful."Thank