Originally Posted by
Snowbelt Spyder
Well, Dog..I’m just going to have to give it to you straight. I’m sorry if I sound mean, but except for the legacy issue of your center display not working, everything else has been self inflicted. It all started when you grabbed a wrench. It’s fundamental. You have to know how to start your bike.
Any SE5, or SE6 for that matter, can be started in ANY gear. If you happen to turn off your Spyder when it’s still in gear, it stays in gear. The reason for that is that there is no hydraulic oil pressure available to shift it back to neutral. There is no oil pressure because the engine isn’t running. You can push the paddle shifter all you want, nothing is going to happen, nor is it supposed to. You have to get the engine started again, and here is the correct way.
The interlock for starting the engine regarding the gearbox is:
Gearbox in Neutral, OR, brake pedal depressed.
So, if you turn off the bike with it still in gear, you don’t need to go running for a wrench. You just need to put your foot on the brake.
- WITH the brake pedal depressed, perform a normal engine startup.
- AFTER the engine starts, THEN hydraulic oil pressure increases. (the hydraulic oil pump is engine driven)
- AFTER hydraulic oil pressure increases, THEN the gearbox is automatically shifted to Neutral. You don’t have to touch a thing. No paddle shifter - nothing. It all happens in the blink of an eye.
It’s not a battery problem if you have enough battery to start the engine in the first place. So forget that. Let’s continue….
The left hand switch on your handlebars is a CAN Bus module, in and of itself. That means that it is part of the computer’s communication system. Most of the functions of the switch assembly just feed commands into the computers. Paddle shift operation is fed to the Transmission Control Module. It’s NOT directly wired - with 12 volts - to the Hydraulic Control Module. There’s no schematic for that circuit. It’s all CAN Bus signals. The only thing that is directly wired on that left hand switch assembly is the horn button. Well, I’m not sure about the headlight switch on yours. But that’s it. All other functions are CAN Bus.
The Transmission Control Module then operates the solenoid valves on the Hydraulic Control Module. The solenoid valves control the flow and direction of hydraulic oil to the hydraulic piston. One direction for upshift, the other for downshift. Plus, there is clutch operation that it also controls. Nothing happens unless the Transmission Control Module says it can happen. It’s all computerized. There’s no schematic.
The rest of your explanation is just about as clear as mud. You took stuff apart when you didn’t need to. We don’t know if it’s back together correctly, don’t know where or why you’re taking these voltage readings, don’t know if you have the engine running or brake depressed when needed, and don’t know what else you broke in the process. And it appears that you’ve blown up something additional given that you now have more warning lights than you started with. The very fact that you’re asking for a shifter wiring schematic shows that you’re way behind the learning curve with a long way to go learning how that thing works. You can’t get it all from an internet forum.
So, good luck with this. I’m too anal and frustrated to help any further. And maybe I didn’t help. At this point, it just needs to be hooked up to BUDS to see if everything with the Left Hand Switch, TCM and HCM is healthy, and to find out what the fault codes are. BUDS can test all of this stuff. I’m glad that you got a repair manual. A good place to start reading is Page 1. Sorry.