Let us know which unit keeps puking on ya so we know which one not to buy ... ;-}
Excellent job! Parts numbers and sources please! And make this a sticky !!
Printable View
Connectors
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CVDFV2J?psc=1...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CVFRT5G?psc=1...
Set/Decel and Resume/accel switches
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R9P3RKM?psc=1...
On/Off switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Z743TQC?psc=1...
I used this illuminated on-off switch, but it is not bright enough to be seen in daylight. A non-illuminated one would be fine.
The case on this drive-by-wire unit is not waterproof; it is intended to be mounted under a car dashboard. I did seal the connectors on the case with silicone sealer and sealed the openings at the back of the case, and wrapped it in plastic. I have been looking for a waterproof case, but finding one small enough to fit the space is proving difficult. One could use the glovebox I suppose.
Dickb, nice clean job. Good to see you completed it. I am guessing it is working well? So happy to see other people are profiting from my install.
Bajaron, I can understand the control gets wet. I really like what dickb did for his switches. Nice and clean and water proof.
Thanks. It is working well. We don't have huge hills here in central Florida, but it holds speed very well, maybe varying 1 mph for a few seconds up or down hill. The RPMs drop for a moment when activating cruise and relaxing the handgrip, but not enough to affect speed. I still have not used it a great deal, but it is definitely much better than a throttle lock.
Couple coats of this will seal anything.
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/..._AC_SS450_.jpg
It's an insulator, and peelable if necessary. Also holds up to heat. A bit of black tape first to seal any holes that might be hard to peel is probably a good idea.
hi, very good job. A full instruction sheet should be a dream to install this kit....
There is no pedal interface for a motorcycle, as of course there is no accelerator pedal. You cut the two throttle sensor wires and wire directly per the Rostra instructions.
Thanks for the info.
Thanks to all for all their hard work to get the cruise control sorted out. Not an easy task and much appreciated work. THANKS !!!!
Can-Am should have put the cruise control switch where I did. My location is better ergonomically, as you do not need to reposition your hand to reach the switches, and there's one less thing to clutter up the handlebars. (With hand guards, is the switch even farther away?) Ironic that Can-Am issues this warning in cruise control instructions: "Always keep both hands on the handlebar while riding. Otherwise, this could cause a vehicle loss of control."
Also, the factory cruise control is a single button. You use it to turn cruise on and off, and to set the speed. There is no accel/decel capability, like every car that I have ever driven has. To increase speed with factory cruise, you use the throttle to set your new speed, then press the cruise button for at least 1 second. To decrease speed, you must first press the cruise button to deactivate cruise (or tap the brake), set your new lower speed, then reactivate with another 1-second button press. (This from the 2022 Ryker Operator's Guide.) Perhaps not a big deal, but I do use accel/decel switches often myself. Press and hold to accel/decel to the desired speed, or press x times to change x mph.
An advantage is the factory cruise will disable if VSS is activated.
I followed your lead and installed the 250-1882 Universal Cruise for Drive by Wire kit on my 2019 Ryker. I wired the kit up and it works perfectly. I used a couple of variations. I didn’t install an on/off switch. I wired it to be always on and installed two momentary switches for the set and resume. I didn’t have enough room for the nut on the resume switch so I epoxy glued the switch.
this is how i wired the throttle sensors. The blue wire is for the hot side of the brake switch. It is soldered to the red wire in the 4 wire connector. The red wire goes to the start button which is on the same circuit as the hot side of the brake switch.
Hey @Rykerrally, thanks for posting this. If I end up getting a Ryker, I want to do this.
A search for 250-3472 on the site produced no results. Could the number of that part have changed?
Also, I do 3D printing. I could easily print up a waterproof case to any specific size needed.
It's 250-3742 according to the image.
Thank you guys for sharing this. How is this holding on so far?
Perfect after 1 year. Been through several rainstorms, no issues.
I put this writeup with more detail together a while back:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/10Mz...ew?usp=sharing
There is no switch harness, you pull your own wires to the switches, and solder them to the switches themselves, unless you are referring to the cruise switches you pick when you buy the package? Then you will have that 'plug' at the module itself then just add your own wiring and pull it to wherever you want to mount your own switches.
EDIT: Had to go back and find my order, I picked the 250-3742 with the kit (250-1882), and just used the plug at the module, cut the wiring short, and ran my own wiring up to the switches
Thank you very much for sharing this memento; I got a lot of inspiration from it; I copied the installation of the speed sensor and the switches, I just moved the RES/Accel switch next to the on/off switch; it’s a little more ergonomic ... for my hands (see photos) and a little easier to install I think.