My belly doesn't allow me to get under anything anymore. :roflblack: Tom :spyder:
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My belly doesn't allow me to get under anything anymore. :roflblack: Tom :spyder:
I also drove mine around prior to me doing the oil change rather than just letting it idle to warm up. Folks told me that the oil in the engine crankcase doesn't know the difference, but it gets the "stuff" in the transmission side suspended so it will flow out easier. Plus, it was a nice day! Carry on....:popcorn:
Gwolf, I'm with you and will add that I plan my oil changes to be at the end of a long day ride. I pull 'er into the garage and pull the plugs. Only downside of this method is, the oil is damn hot if it hits your hand. Don't ask.
Well it seems from some comments that the Rear wheel somehow moves the oil through the engine …..AMAZING …. what you can learn on this site :clap::clap::clap::roflblack:
My engine don't know anything, but I know if the gears in the transmission are spinning or if it is just sitting there idling. I also know it will stir up more of the particles if it is run through the gears than it will if it just idles a while. The oil is not just in the engine. It also circulates through the transmission.
Believe whatever you want to. I will do it my way. You can do it any way you like.
Differences are what makes horse races.
I don't see anyone saying that. :dontknow: I see Gwolf, me, and others saying that actually riding the Spyder spins the transmission gears, which contain the same oil that you change when you do an oil change. Spinning the transmission helps to temporarily suspend particles so that they can more easily be removed during the oil change, while at the same time warming the oil for easier flow.
If we were talking about a typical car, where the transmission fluid is a totally separate system than the engine oil, that would be different.
Anyhow....flame on :ohyea:
Idling in neutral would also spin the transmission gears. However running up the gears over the road would cause a heck of a lot more stirring up of anything that might be settled.
Idling in neutral spins only the input shaft. Without any of the gear pinions engaged the output shaft does not spin.
Let's agree to dis-agree :2thumbs: ……… Debris , particulate matter etc. is going to be heavier than the oil it is in ….. and if that is the case, when the oil isn't moving that stuff will sink to the bottom of whatever it is contained in ie. engine, transmission etc. the magnets on the drain plugs should be catching any steel / iron metal parts ( that's why they are there )….. and I don't stop my engine and immediately pull the drains, I might wait 15-20 minutes. … I've owned many, many various veh's in my 72 yrs. and never had an engine or transmission failure...… Thanks for all your opinions …. Mike :ohyea:
Its not about the engine, its all about the gearbox and wet clutch...just so happens, the engine must be running to spin the gearbox and clutch.
Circulated oil that has been run prior to draining, and yes it may sit a few minutes, will suspended, aluminum particles, and moisture or acids if present and do a better result removing them.
Will you see immediate failure, have your engine blow up or see detrimental effects from draining cold oil. Very unlikely no, however it is simply not the best method to use.
I, too, am in the ride before oil change group. After 50'sh years, won't change now ...
I'm also in the school of riding it and immediately changing the oil because of the very reason stated above in which a lot more of the particles are suspended in the oil.
I'm also in the school of do it right, or don't do it at all, but whatever "floats" your particles....erm, I mean....boat.
;) :D
Shell Rotella T6 meets JASO MA/MA2 specs so it is safe for wet clutch. $23.00 gal at Walmart. K&N oil filter with all o rings from Bajaron $19.95 and he ships fast. Won't pay the $90.00 for the oil change kit at the dealer again and certainly won't have the dealer do my oil change. I believe "if you want something done right, do it yourself." Of course, you've got to know your limitations.
I do stockpile some if the price is right.
Currently, I could change a 1330 for right at 28.00 . BajaRon o-ring kit from eBay at 12 shipped, an Outlaw filter for 4.50, and 6 quarts of Castrol Power 1 from an AutoZone sale at 2.00 per quart.
The average Joe doesn't need to hoard oil, there are plenty of good deals every day if you look.
Grainger has Mag1 @ 4.00 a quart available and free ship for pickup. The name doesn't do justice to what's inside. A really good, under the radar oil made by a major blender that does a bunch of private labels.
WalMart recently had Quicksilver full synthetic on line at 37 for a 12 pack. That's the lubricant division of Mercury Marine: they got into powersports a while back. Made by Citgo, which BTW, is the folks that bring you Yamalube.
And every late October, early November, AutoZone closes out all the slow sellers. The mentioned Castrol was there last fall. I did get a few of those.
This is one of the big advantages of doing your own oil change. Getting the oil hot makes it flow much faster. Faster flow removes more contaminants and debris. These contaminants settle out and lay on the bottom after a relatively short time. Just idling your Spyder will not do the job. And the shop does not have the time to ride your Spyder before doing the oil change. They might not even start it up. It's just too time consuming. If the engine isn't run long enough to warm the oil, and if you don't ride your Spyder for a few miles first to agitate the oil with the gears in the transmission. You are leaving a high percentage of settled out particles just waiting to contaminate your brand new oil.
As mentioned by others, the transmission and wet clutch also run in the same engine oil. The clutch has fibrous friction plates (like brake pads that work in oil) which run up against steel plates. And, just like brake pads and rotors, they lose a little bit of material every time you engage the clutch. Granted, it isn't that much. But it tends to settle out pretty quickly when the engine is shut down. A magnetic drain plug will catch much of the ferrous materials. But it isn't going to get any of the clutch fibers or any non-ferrous materials. You can get nearly all of this material out with a run and hot drain. You are leaving most of it behind with a cold service.
It's not a matter of life and death, by any means. It's just the difference between doing it, and doing it right.
This is why the pull through oil change stations for cars/trucks are such a good deal. You drive in with hot, circulated oil and you are removing nearly all of the built up junk that has accumulated since your last change. It really is a better way to go.