Sprocket Recall - What's Wrong With BRP's Logistics?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gunner3773

I saw in his recent video, that using Loctite 609 only requires 10 minutes to set.

---

Thats the fixture time cure time is 24hrs.
609 10 minute fixture time 24 hour cure time 2290psi shear strength.
603 10minute fixture time 72 hour cure time 3260psi shear strength.
648 3minute fixture time 24 hour cure time 3900psi shear strength.

So we're glueing together a smaller surface area of splines because we're adding a washer (that no one knows what for) to an unchanged, metallurgy wise, sprocket in an effort to prevent an unknown number of failures 7 years after the fact and after a notification time of 7 months still can't say when the part will be available even though some have been fitted and are out the door and the only official information we can gather is from stealers that are clueless and a tech that makes money from Youtube posts that refuses to answer questions because BRP has scolded him for talking out of class .
:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead:

FFS this is retarded!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Here is a link to the TDS on the Loctite 609. https://tds.henkel.com/tds5/Studio/S...uthorization=2

Here is the 648 https://tds.henkel.com/tds5/Studio/S...uthorization=2

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Cobwebs

Thats the fixture time cure time is 24hrs.
609 10 minute fixture time 24 hour cure time 2290psi shear strength.
603 10minute fixture time 72 hour cure time 3260psi shear strength.
648 3minute fixture time 24 hour cure time 3900psi shear strength.

So we're glueing together a smaller surface area of splines because we're adding a washer (that no one knows what for) to an unchanged, metallurgy wise, sprocket in an effort to prevent an unknown number of failures 7 years after the fact and after a notification time of 7 months still can't say when the part will be available even though some have been fitted and are out the door and the only official information we can gather is from stealers that are clueless and a tech that makes money from Youtube posts that refuses to answer questions because BRP has scolded him for talking out of class .
:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: :banghead:

FFS this is retarded!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

---

:agree: .... I've posted a few times - that there were very few ( if any ) "fretting" issues until the end of the 2014 model run ..... Only BRP knows what changed at that point .... maybe one or maybe a few things .... BRP is NEVER going to admit this, or say what it is/was ..... JMHO ..... Mike :agree:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by EdMat

Here is a link to the TDS on the Loctite 609. https://tds.henkel.com/tds5/Studio/S...uthorization=2

Here is the 648 https://tds.henkel.com/tds5/Studio/S...uthorization=2

---

We've been using 648 for years at the advice of a BRP Spyder tech. Reading the specs of both it seems like 648 is a better match than the 609. Not sure why they went with 609.

LOCTITE® 609 is designed for the bonding of cylindrical fitting
parts. The product cures when confined in the absence of air
between close fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening
and leakage from shock and vibration. Typical applications
include rotor to shafts in fractional and subfractional
horsepower motors. Locks bushings and sleeves in housings
on shafts. Augments press fits

LOCTITE® 648™ is designed for the bonding of cylindrical fitting parts,
particularly where bond gaps can approach 0.15 mm and where
maximum strength at room temperature is required. The product cures
when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal
surfaces and prevents loosening and leakage from shock and
vibration. LOCTITE® 648™ provides robust curing performance. It not
only works on active metals (e.g. mild steel) but also on passive
substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces. The product
offers high temperature performance and oil tolerance. It tolerates
minor surface contaminations from various oils, such as cutting,
lubrication, anti-corrosion and protection fluids. Typical applications
include holding gears and sprockets onto gearbox shafts and rotors on
electric motor shafts.

some have used Locktite 660- any info pos or neg??

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by honsfun

some have used Locktite 660- any info pos or neg??

---

honsfun, I have NO experience to offer regarding Loctite 660, but since BRP now recommend 609 with their new sprocket, and Lamonster recommend 648 (which they have been using for some time with great results), I personally would only be considering either of those two.;)

Pete

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lamonster

We've been using 648 for years at the advice of a BRP Spyder tech. Reading the specs of both it seems like 648 is a better match than the 609. Not sure why they went with 609.....

---

Lamont, how long does it take to cure after using to fit a sprocket?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ulflyer

Lamont, how long does it take to cure after using to fit a sprocket?

---

It should set for 24 hours for best results.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lamonster

We've been using 648 for years at the advice of a BRP Spyder tech. Reading the specs of both it seems like 648 is a better match than the 609. Not sure why they went with 609.

---

How about asking BRP engineers? I presume you have inside contacts that run a lot deeper than what we ordinary mortals have, right?

When I was in the quality assurance field I had a motto, QA QA QA; the Questioning Approach of Quality Assurance leads to the Quintessential Answer.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder

How about asking BRP engineers? I presume you have inside contacts that run a lot deeper than what we ordinary mortals have, right?

When I was in the quality assurance field I had a motto, QA QA QA; the Questioning Approach of Quality Assurance leads to the Quintessential Answer.

---

I don't have the line of communication I once had. I'm just an ordinary mortal too ;)

If you can't even get the pulley, the type of Loctite is not something I am worried about right now.

I am not gonna let the dealership work on my scooter, even if it is free warranty work.

It would still cost about $100 worth of gas and two trips to Gville, which would ruin 2 days for me.

They talking about 6 months to a year just to get the pulley. I am looking for some other source.

Any ideas?

REPOWER ! JET or a SAIL !!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gwolf

If you can't even get the pulley, the type of Loctite is not something I am worried about right now.

I am not gonna let the dealership work on my scooter, even if it is free warranty work.

It would still cost about $100 worth of gas and two trips to Gville, which would ruin 2 days for me.

They talking about 6 months to a year just to get the pulley. I am looking for some other source.

Any ideas?

---

Similar here, I'm thinking just get some 648 and glue my original sprocket with it.If nothings changed with the metallurgy of the replacement why the hell are we bothering.It's the fretting causing the problem so letting those monkeys at the stealership mess with it won't change that.Piss poor design and materials is the underlying problem so barring an aftermarket improvement we're screwed I'd say.

My Spyder is Unusable. I had it checked, and they said it was fine. HA! There is nothing like riding down the road and nothing happens as you lose all drive. One tow truck and 4 hour later I got home. What I learnt is that I am never going to that service Centre again. The recall note did say they should replace it with an interim sprocket to keep you on the road, if I read that correctly; not that there are any in Australia.
More of an interesting point, Martin the Vlogger has done 78,000km with no problems; Great Rydes, 70,000mls; and there is a rider here in Aus hitting 60,000km with no problems; me - at 22,750kms the sprocket went! The point I ask, is it the luck of the draw, as Shaun says, or is someone cost saving?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lamonster

I don't have the line of communication I once had. I'm just an ordinary mortal too ;)

---

Soooo……once this new pulley is installed onto the splined shaft using whatever Loctite used, if ya gotta remove the pulley at any future date……whats the procedure?

A heavy duty pulley puller and big ass breaker bar ?? :) :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bikerchris1270

Soooo……once this new pulley is installed onto the splined shaft using whatever Loctite used, if ya gotta remove the pulley at any future date……whats the procedure?

---

Heat ........ or if the pulley is too damaged to re-use, just split it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by oldguyinTX

According to the service department at my dealer - RideNow Austin - they were able to get a large number of sprockets, based on their aggregate BRP sales. I agree with Mikey, ask your dealer to call them to ask RideNow to send your dealer a sprocket, and if they won't (but they should), you should call RideNow @ 512-459-3311 to make an appointment to put the new sprocket. Not sure where in Texas you are, but is a trip to Austin feasible? Also, BRP is full of it when they say that the installation will only take "about an hour" when in reality, it takes closer to 2 1/2 hours. BRP only pays the dealer for .6 - yep you read that right - .6 hours to get the work done. My dealer is not too happy with BRP. So see, BRP not only screws us Spyder Riders, they screw dealers as well. Heck of a way to run a business.

---

I have a 2015 RTS, but as a lay person I replaced my own sprocket (the painted white one] which I had to buy myself and only took about 50 min, start to finish. Not sure why it would take 2 1/2 hrs?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lamonster

It should set for 24 hours for best results.

---

Quick question……if the sprocket is put on the bike with locative, does that mean it stays on the lift for 24 hours? Or does the tech start the bike back it up and leave it sit in the garage for 24 hours? Or does the tech start it up back it outside and let it sit for 24 hours? Which one? Not sure many techs have 24 hours to sit on lift before moving to allow to set up, That means they can only work on 1 machine a day or have a designated lift for sprockets only. Most dealers have 1-2 spyder ATV lifts and one for SXS. If they sell sleds or jet skis then one for them. Most dealers wont have the number of lifts to leave one on it sitting for 24 hours. That also means they will only schedule 1 a week at tops.

It takes a fix set in 15 to 30 minutes but needs longer to fully cure. Cure time would also depend on how good the tech cleaned the surfaces. The more metal contact the faster the cure time due to the reaction to metal in an oxygen free state.

So if I understand this correctly, the tech will put the spyder on the the lift and remove all the plastic, remove the old sprocket and belt, clean the splines on the shaft, apply lock tite to spline and sprocket, slide sprocket on and bolt on, let it sit for 30 minutes to hour on the lift not moved so it can set. Then back off the spyder off the lift and let it sit for 24 hours to fully cure. Then reinstall the belt and all the plastic the next day “correct?” Dumb question here but will the belt be on while it sets and cures? Can’t that cause it to be a bit out of round or offset a touch with the belt tension? Or are they waiting the hour then installing the belt then backing it off. Just trying to figure out the exact steps so I know them before I ask the tech to explain the steps to me. Just doing som research first.

Why would they need the belt on to take it off the lift? Just release the brake and push it off the lift. I move mine around using a rolling engine lift with the brake still locked. Just lift the rear tire clear of the floor and push it where ever you need to.

There is ideal and real world. Real world is the locktite is applied to the shaft and sprocket and reassembled. You could ride the bike home and park it for 24 hours. I wouldn't go for a cross country ride immediately after the repair but it's not going to be a problem if you ride it a few miles. For best results either leave it there for 24 hours or trailer there and trailer back. We've had customers do both and yet to have a repeat failure.

Ahhhhhh perfect…..thanks Lamont. It’s 5 hours to my service shop. Head up early in the morning, sprocket changed by lunch, ride 5 mins back to the motel and stay overnight, ride home at lunchtime. Sounds like a plan. I’m sure it is only a matter of time until BRP list the later models as requiring the “fix”.

Pete

I just got the sprocket recall done on my F3 which was sitting at the dealer since late September, The original sprocket did fail and wasn't safe to ride. It was making a lot of noise especially when decelerating. The dealer just got the new sprocket in about a week ago and did the repair this past Saturday. Unfortunately, I still wasn't able to get it home because it snowed since and my up hill driveway is all packed snow now and I would not be able to get my spyder up the driveway. So I guess it will sit at the dealer for now.