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Trying to do my oil change. I can't for the life of me get the dang oil drain plug un-done!!! It's like the dealership used loctite on it when they put it back from the first oil change!!! Any suggestions would be appreciated since I already have the hcm module filter out!!!! It's a 2011 RS SE5, if that makes a difference!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by vampyregirl
Remember to loosen turn counterclockwise to tighten turn clockwire
Lefty-loosey, righty-tightie!!! It won't budge.... When I'm trying to loosen it, the whole oil tank is pulling towards me. They put that damned thing in waaaaaaay to tight!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by vampyregirl
ok then loosen the hose that is on the right side of the oil tank the one that has the strainer at the same time you can clean the strainer you can empty the oil tank that way after you empty the engine
One thing that i have had the best luck with is to tap the center of the drain plug with a punch and hammer. LIGHT TAP! Just to shock the plug a little.
I'll remember that for next time!! I finally got it!! Had to brace my foot against the bike and pull for all I was worth. It "popped" when it let loose!! Nothing like the smell of dirty oil in the afternoon!! :clap:
Thank you much!!
Those plugs can be a bear. The diameter of the plug face is much larger than the diameter of the wrench you will use to remove it. This gives the plug a great mechanical advantage over you. Put a vice-grip on the OD of the plug and put the other wrench where it normally goes. Turn both of them together. That should do it. The outside diameter of the plug will get buggered up, but don't worry about it at this time. Use a new sealing washer. Order Gold Plugs or another brand with regular wrench hex heads for next time. They are worth the money.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grandpot
I agree the OEM drain plugs are junk i installed dimple magnetic drain plugs on my first oil change
Just changed the oil in the F3 this weekend. It's got an Allen head on the right side and a Torx on the left!
Everything changed out, oil light goes off in a timely manner at start up. All that's left to do is put the panels back on and take 'er for a spin!!!!!
Thanks again for the suggestions!!! Hopefully next time I won't have so much trouble since everything was hand-tightened and not using pneumatic tools!!!! Grrrrrrr!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by vampyregirl
Before you take that spin let it heat up proper and recheck your oil gauge.
Cruzr Joe
Hot oil and time will create a varnish very much like loctite. Hiting the plug breaks up the varnish allowing you to remove the plug. best way to do it is to place the tool you are going to use and hiting it with the hammer...As mentioned many times by many folks here, change the plugs for the bolt head style. Best known are the Dimple (I use these, expensive but the best) and the gold much more reasonable...:thumbup:
To loosen just use one of these. It's just that easy.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/a...d=130854&stc=1
Me, too !Quote:
Originally Posted by jtoro1
:agree:
I've found my cordless impact driver does wonders for breaking bolts or nuts loose.
Must be careful and ensure the bit or socket is a perfect fit but I've even used this on the bowl screws on my buell carb.
NOTE: I did not say an impact wrench, just my cordless impact driver.
DONE MY OWN oil changes since new and never had an issue. Strange how this problem keeps creeping up recently.
I have been debating about if I want to change my oil or take it to my dealer and have them do it.... If I can find a deal on some Amsoil I will give it a go I think!
I had taken mine in for it's 600 mile checkup some time ago and hadn't taken it back for an oil change. I figured I'd do it myself this time. I had a 10 year old Jeep Liberty that I had done all but 5 oil changes on. How hard could this be on a Spyder?? Took a while, but it's done. Runs great!!! Followed the green manual to a "tee" on changing the oil, replacing it, running the bike for a couple minutes, etc. Now that I've done it, I'll have no hesitation in doing it myself again!!! :thumbup: and I think I'll get the Dimple plugs for the next oil change too!!
If any type of thread is stuck, especially a tapered thread, always try to tighten it first. The micro-striations caused when tightening mean it will be easier to break it by continuing to tighten it. Trust me, 10+ years as a pipe fitter, I've learned the tricks to budge stuck threads, and going tighter is about 50% less effort. So in reality, to break it free, you can turn it either way, with no extra risk of ruining anything. Using a proper quality wrench, or a proper socket also go a long way. Cheap tools break, and break things as they flex.
New to the Can Am crowd, but read enough on the oil drain thing to know I want those Gold plugs. In looking for them I find them but the say to use your old O rings. There are two of them and ones a different color. Where can I get just the O rings for the Gold plugs?
Buckskin
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grandpot
Drain plugs for the 998 engine that this thread is about do not have o-rings.Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckskin