Rear Elka installed on RT

I've had a good couple of days wrenching on the RT and after moving my Garmin 660, installing my Polk Audio speakers, installing my chrome handlebars and cleaning up a bunch of wiring I decided it was time to tackle the rear Elka shock that I've had sitting in the shop for weeks.

So far I have yet to have a project that didn't fight me and this was no exception. I already had the side panels off so I didn't have to deal with that but they do need to come off if you're doing the install.

On the right side you'll see a schrader valve, you'll need to let all the air out of the system before taking anything apart. Mine may be in a little different location than yours because mines preproduction but this is what you're looking for. It looks like the valve stem on your wheels.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/p...ictureid=13493

Now that all the air is out you can jack it up and take the weight off the rear. Now you want to take the bottom bolt out of the position sensor linkage.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/p...ictureid=13494


I was able to get the bottom bolt out of the shock no problem but the top bolt was a fight for me. The nut is on the right side and you can hardly see it let alone get a wrench on it. I was able to get a 15mm socket on the left side with an extension but all I could get on the right side was a open end wrench and I had to do that from the bottom up. I called in help for that one and then it wasn't that bad. It was a real fight for one guy for sure.

Here's a comparison of the stock shock and the Elka.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/p...ictureid=13492

It's too tight to get any good pictures but the next step is installing the Elka shock. If you got the shock with the remote can you'll need to fish it up and over the belt so you can zip it up to the frame. You want to make sure that this line does not rub on the belt when the swingarm moves up and down.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/p...ictureid=13495

They give you a cool little bracket that bolts to the backside of your bags. You replace the hinge screws with the ones they provide. It is a threaded nut on the backside so you can pull one screw out at a time and change them out. I would wait to snug them all the way up till you get the bracket on.

This picture is just to show what bolts you take out, the bracket is mounted under the bag on the backside.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/p...ictureid=13496

I mounted my can first and then zipped up the hose where it wanted to go. There's no right or wrong way to do this other than it need to be clear of the belt and you don't want the line chaffing on anything. You want to make sure you can get to the adjustment knob too.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/p...ictureid=13498

This is how I tied up my line.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/p...ictureid=13497

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/p...ictureid=13499

I'll report back after I put some miles on this shock and let you know what I think. One thing for sure is it is a quality part just like the front Elkas.

Thanks Lamont,

I installed the front Elkas two weeks ago and with the limited riding I can do now with the cold weather can already tell about a 998% inprove ryde difference in my RT-S. I appreciate your report and look forward to your reporting your additional "Ryde" findings as his rear unit is next on my mods horizon. :doorag:

Ditto on the front Elkas and I too have thought about the back. Approximate cost for the back, i.e., cost for the part and time to install?

Thanks.

Chris PE# 0004

I've got one on my list for install...but I might take it in and have the dealer wrestle with it.
Lamont,would the install be about the same in a production model without the pump.I'm hoping that you'll say "easier".
Chris,I paid just under,or was it over $1000.00can. including taxes, shipping.

The cost for the one I got was $945.00
http://www.kewlmetalstore.com/produc...roducts_id=606

I would say if I had it to do again I could do it in about an hour. I would make a tool to grab that nut, that was the only hard part.

Thanks guys!!!!! :thumbup:

Nice job Lamont. You will love the rear ELKA, like you do the fronts. I had the guys at Cowtown put both my front and rear ELKAs on along with a new Toyo Proxes 4 rear tire and we love the change. Big improvement for us. The only adjustment I've done on the rear shock from, the factory settings, is one click up on the high and low speed compression.

Sam

I note several are changing their front shocks (and rear) to Elka shocks. I assume these help/improve the handling and stability of the Spyder or you would not do it. Where/what are the improvements? I am learning guys, I am learning...

Same question as George...what are the benes to the Elkas, especially the fronts?

I think I'm too big for the stock shocks, even with the preload cranked down. I got 250 unladened. Put an adult pillion and the front just feels squishy. Not sure if I'm too big for the shocks or need the swaybar. I know the cheap answer is to get back down to my milspec weight of 220# :)

@George: Thanks for your service. Just entered my 20th year in the Air Force myself.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by George Lewis

I note several are changing their front shocks (and rear) to Elka shocks. I assume these help/improve the handling and stability of the Spyder or you would not do it. Where/what are the improvements? I am learning guys, I am learning...

---

@George: Thanks for your service. Just entered my 20th year in the Air Force myself.[/QUOTE]

What a great feeling with 19 plus, and now you can decide if you wish to go overseas or someplace else. I put in 29 and got out in 1981 as I did not want to make a career out of it....ha ha. The flesh peddlers wanted me to spend my thirtyith year in Korea, remote...Duh!

I will be interested in the answers we get on the shocks. I am learning more about the Spyder each day.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by George Lewis

I note several are changing their front shocks (and rear) to Elka shocks. I assume these help/improve the handling and stability of the Spyder or you would not do it. Where/what are the improvements? I am learning guys, I am learning...

---

One of the things BRP found out in 2010 from real world testing is the front shocks on the RT were a little light. I knew this the day I got my preproduction unit. One of the first things I did when I got home was to play with a set of Elka's that I had. It took some trial and error but I got them where I'm happy now and what I'm running is the setup that Elka sells for the RT. The good news is you can by just the 2011 shocks for your 2010 RT if that's what you have because they did make some changes in 2011 that addresses that issue.

On the rear I can't really say. I've never had a problem with the stock shock but there have been those that have. Somewhere in 2010 they made some design changes that fixed a top-out issue. I'm looking forward to putting some miles on my new rear Elka to see what the improvement will be. The reason there is an aftermarket for stock suspension is because there is a need.

Just got the Elka's on the front of the RT this weekend . . . . my son n law stopped by about the time I was going to give up trying to pull the front body work . . . with another set of eyes we ended up throwing them on in an hour . . . no need to remove anything other than the bolts .. . . it would have helped if I had realized that the bolt heads were 15mm and not 14mm . . . love the ride and handling. Ted at Waterworld became a dealer for Elka, ordered us a set for 'recreational' riding two up. While you still get the yawl in the corners, it is very controlled . . . Cat took it out and really is impressed with the handling . . . since we 'canyon carve' in just a normal transportation day, the money spent was well worth it. Looking forward to upgrading the RS (with the RT shocks for now, and Elka's later). Thanks Lamont for the info. I did notice that it doesn't sit up on it's toes like the RT you drove out here to Oregon. We figure that all the info you gave Elka made the differnce.

I got about a 200 mile ride in yesterday with the rear shock and it felt great. It really sucks up the bumps. It's not as noticeable of a chance as the fronts but I do like the ride. :doorag:

I was telling a friend at work about how my front end feels greasy. He had a great idea. Before running off to purchase a pair of 2011 shocks...go ride one to make sure the desired feel is there. I thought it was a pretty smart way to make sure there is a tangible difference.

George,
Since you have the 2011 and I have the 2010, your experience may not be the same as mine. However, I installed my new Elkas yesterday. AMAZING difference for me. I was skeptical that this change would be so dramatic. I was fearful that I would have better cornering, but give up the smooth ride. My results are that I have dramatically less sway in corners and I even have a much much smoother ride. I have to say that so far, this is by far the most bang for the buck that I have gotten on any modification.

Good Luck, and I saw about 20 Wingers (I have read where you were/are a Wing Rider too) in a town I was riding in today (One Spyder) I stopped to say hello and ended up taking pics for the entire group. Had a good time talking Spyder with a complete stranger.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BIG RED 1

I note several are changing their front shocks (and rear) to Elka shocks. I assume these help/improve the handling and stability of the Spyder or you would not do it. Where/what are the improvements? I am learning guys, I am learning...

---

One quick question.....Are you able to access Spring adjuster ring on Shock To fine tune spring pre load when installed on Spyder...

One more...What is length of shock eye to eye

Freebob...:doorag: