Do you have trouble loading from the rear ramp? Such as bottoming out on the way in? Have to do anything to raise the front of the trailer to do that?
Thanks:yikes:
Do you have trouble loading from the rear ramp? Such as bottoming out on the way in? Have to do anything to raise the front of the trailer to do that?
Thanks:yikes:
Most folks just have a couple of 2 x 6 boards ( 4 ft long will be enough ) .... or release the tongue and tilt the entire trailer..... Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by captcharles
So the 2x6 are laid down on the ground before the loading ramp?Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
Yep, that works too. I use the dip at the end of driveway
I have a 7x12 enclosed trailer with a deck height of 17". The rear ramp/door is 6' long and I have no trouble rolling right in the trailer while it is hitched to the motorhome.Quote:
Originally Posted by captcharles
I would put the boards 2 ft.on the ramp and 2 ft before the ramp ..... put a couple of bolts at the RAMP end of the board so it doesn't SLIP - in or off the trailer ramp ..... Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by captcharles
Do you use 3 ramps?Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
Well I had to, because I was putting my RT into my Pick-up ( No Ramp ) .... You only need two for the front tires, the rear won't be affected by the Ramp angle .... and you should have enough traction to prevent slipping. ..... Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by captcharles
I did not; just two for the front tires. The rear tire/frame had clearance.Quote:
Originally Posted by captcharles
I don't have a 7x12 but this cured the bottoming out problem with my 6x10.
What are the wood blocks for?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bensonoid
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bensonoid
Looks to me like the front wheels will climb up the rear end of those 'wood blocks' just at the right time to lift the belly of the Spyder a bit higher & stop it scraping on the top of the ramp; then as the back wheel starts to climb the ramp & in its own turn, lifts the belly clear of the top of the ramp, the front wheels will go down the other side of those blocks. :ohyea:Quote:
Originally Posted by captcharles
It's effectively reducing the angle of the step up onto the ramp and the angle of the ramp over onto the trailer bed, basically extending the length of the angled ramp so that the belly of the Spyder doesn't/can't catch on the top of the ramp/rear edge of the trailer bed due to the Spyder's low ground clearance. I reckon it's a pretty smart way of doing it too! :thumbup:
Same when I rented a 7x12 utility. Sorry, didn’t measure the ramp/gate, guess it was 4, maybe 5 foot. If on flat ground, definitely too steep & hi centered. Blocked the street temporarily & backed to the curb at the driveway, which made it almost level :thumbup: ** hi centered & trailer hitch hit pavement **Quote:
Originally Posted by happyspyder2039
ExactlyQuote:
Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
Look up tilt a hitch they work great
My trailer is 7 x 14 and loads with no bottoming. I did add an 18 inch full width flap that eases the transition from ground to ramp. It is attached with three large hinges and folds inside against the ramp.
Looks like they're not available. Several sites said no longer available. Looks like a great solution though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Littleantlers
Hopefully the boards will work, but if you do have to "release the tongue ...", please make SURE you have the wheels blocked IN BOTH DIRECTIONS and also have some bracing under the trailer to HOLD the tilt. But then you also need to be able to release the tilt (in a controlled manner), so personally, I would avoid releasing the tongue and tilting the trailer. Boards are cheaper and SO much easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
.
:agree: ..... and releasing the tongue might not be a good idea for most folks ..... Thanks .... Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve W.
Pictures?Quote:
Originally Posted by pegasus1300
I will take some in the morningQuote:
Originally Posted by captcharles
It all depends on the make and model of your trailer. I have an Aluma Executive Series trailer and I do not have to do anything to load it. The Executive Series comes with a longer gate which is a Bi-Fold gate and my Spyder RTL runs right up on it with no clearance problems. A buddy of mine has an older trailer that he has issues but instead of using and having to carry 2x6 boards he went to the local RV dealer and bought some of the RV leveling blocks which there are lots of types and styles to choose from, and he backs his truck up on them to lift the rear which in turn will lift the tongue of the trailer decreasing the angle at the rear of the trailer.
https://www.campingworld.com/maintai...veling-systems
Been there, done that. I had a Polaris Slingshot and did that to load, plus a beavertail and taller bumpers on the ramp door.Quote:
Originally Posted by campermac
Quote:
Originally Posted by captcharles
The ramp is used to soften the transition from ground to ramp as there is a pretty good-sized lip there. The ramp and the transition at the top of the ramp is gentle enough that Spyder clears the edge without any trouble.
We have a 7x10 trailer that we haul everything in. Never have an issue. It has a 4' wire mesh tailgate. But if we did have an issue, I would simply lower the hitch leg and crank it up the front of the trailer while still attached. I've done this with all kinds of trailers It will lift the back of the vehicle with no problem. Thus lowering the rear of the trailer and reducing the approach angle.
finding a suitable locations for the trailer that lowers approach angle is easier. But not always possible. Especially if what you are trying to load is not running.