Has anyone installed the ST2 engine/brake Flashing Brake Light System on a 2020 or newer Spyder RT Limited or S2S? Was it a plug-in affair or did you have to splice wires etc. Do you like the system?
Has anyone installed the ST2 engine/brake Flashing Brake Light System on a 2020 or newer Spyder RT Limited or S2S? Was it a plug-in affair or did you have to splice wires etc. Do you like the system?
ST2 Brake module install.
Not exactly. You need to find and tap three wires to install it. I bought the module but have not installed it yet on my 2022 Spyder RTL. I plan to, tho. I think it's an awesome idea. I also bought the turn signal canceller but the built in one works well enough I doubt I'll install it.
The TRICLED version of the brake light flashing system works well and is a simple plug and play. Time consuming to removes the Tupperware for the first time, but relatively easy. Works with three flashes then solid light.
The only thing that I would suggest is to run a dedicated ground wire to the modulator.
I pulled one from the fuel tank ground wire under the passenger seat.
Buy this one. no cutting/splicing/ no BS
https://www.slingmods.com/canam-spyd...ator?vehicle=1
NOT the same thing.
The TricLED/Slingmods brake "modulator" is not the same thing AT ALL. Yes, it's easier to install. But it doesn't do anything I need. The ST2 "smart brake module" actually activates the brake lights when you DECELERATE, it does NOT need you to press the brake pedal to activate the brake lights. This is the entire point of the module -- to provide a visual indication to those behind you that you are slowing down, even without pressing your brake pedal.
There may be some utility in flashing or "modulating" the brake light when you press the brake pedal, but I just don't see it. I'm far more worried about someone plowing into the back of my Spyder because I'm using engine braking and the drivers behind don't know it.
Thank you for all the input. ST2 got back to me and confirmed it will operate all three brake lights, left, right & trunk. Also, the decelerator mechanism sensitivity can be adjusted simply by adjusting its tilt. ST2 also assured me they would be glad to walk me through the "how to wire" correctly procedures. Thus I ordered a unit.
I installed mine on my '18 RTL last August and love it, except for it cancelling my cruise control too sensitively, they're sending me a diagram of how to add a diode inline to prevent this.
St2Quote:
Originally Posted by Davgill2002
I received a refund from ST2 only by having Discover cancel the charge. ST2 would not provide me with a RMA form thus I was required to pay return shipping on a defective product. Turns out the cheapest shipping available ran $115! I did not ship and instead had Discover intervene. Got my credit and 6 weeks later ST2 has not provided me a RMA to return their product.
The ST2 does not work on Spyder RTs, period! Contrary to claims, their sensitivity is not adjustable. Almost any bump in the road will cancel your cruise control no matter whether you tilt the unit all the way one way or the other. The diode fix simple remedies the cruise control issue, it still allows frequent false brake light flashing though your not decelerating at all! Lastly, the unit is mechanical not electronic or digital, thus prone to moisture etc.
I am sorry you had issues. I installed the unit on my 2016 about 4 years ago. I had one of the very first units. I am the one who came up with the diode to prevent false triggers. It does require a procedure to start it but once I figured that out it worked great. May I suggest you did not have something correct? No disrespect intended. I spent many nights testing my unit until I got the position just right. Like I said I am sorry you had trouble but they do work and they work well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Davgill2002
Some diodes are "leakier" than others and some cruise controls are more sensitive than others. A 3K resistor to ground on the CC side of the diode should help. Mounting the sensor in the middle of the Spyder will reduce road surface sensitivity. Wrapping it in some packing foam also helps. And Tiny2 pointed out the critical tuning effort to obtain desired performance.
I received my ST2 brake light module late last week and intend to install sometime soon, although we won't necessarily be riding for a while. Would either of you gents be willing to share where you chose to connect your wiring and module location placement and procedures? You can PM if you prefer.
Thanks in advance!
It was a <1 hour install. on my 21 RTL
rv6a -- this is excellent news. Do you have any photos to share? Where did you mount the module? Did you use the taillight circuit to power the module? What is the location of the brake wire you cut to install the module and diode (eg, before or after the Deutsch connector)? What diode did you use? Did you have any problem with leakage current triggering the cruise control disable? How did you adjust the brake light trigger to match your riding style (for my motorcycle I used a repeater LED near the steering stem because I couldn't see the brake light)? Inquiring minds need to know...:D
If I understand how the ST2 works I might suggest buying a Brake Free light that attaches to the back of your helmet. I have one and love it. It will brighten or flash as you decelerate.
Hey there, have you had a chance to take a test ride to see how the ST2 is working?Quote:
Originally Posted by rv6a
Hey Tiny, any chance that you have a diagram of how you wired in your ST2 w/diode? I'm going to take BertReminton's advise and add a 3K resistor as well but would like to know where you chose for your final mounting location that worked for you, if you don't mind sharing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiny2
Editing this post to share the diagram that was sent to me from ST2.
You have the large plug under the rear seat on the left side.Quote:
Originally Posted by Davgill2002
Orange is power.
Black is ground.
White is signal to brake lights.
Sebastian Fortune did a video on YouTube -
https://youtube.com/watch?v=IPyuYvkT...4jr50PwSDS13pN
You will need to add a diode into the white wire before your splice, so that the flashing doesn't back feed to the cruise control and disengage it...
Sorry for the long delay. I was on a 90-day cruise. I first installed the ST2 brake module device on my 2016 RT a long time ago. I can't tell you where I wired it because I sold the bike. I now have a 2022 S2S. Before I left on my cruise, I ordered a new ST2 module. I plan on installing it next week. The connector you want is located on the left side of the bike. Lift your passenger seat and you will see a large multi-connector on the left side of the bike. This is where you can grab the Orange wire (Power); the Black wire (Ground); & the White wire (Signal). The diode needs to be placed on the signal line going back to the bike's brake pedal. The ST2 device sends out a positive voltage spike to the brake signal line which causes the cruise control to drop out. Your schematic diagram is good.
Here comes the scary part...
You have to cut the white wire into two wires. Leave enough wire on both sides so you can make your connections. You will need a meter to measure the voltage on the two white wires you now have. The one that has 12 volts when you hit the brake pedal is the one going back to the bike's brakes. The other white wire is the line to the brake lights. Put the Anode of the diode on the white wire that goes back to the bike's brake pedal (the wire with the voltage). The diode's cathode will be attached to the signal wire coming from the ST2 module and the white wire going to the bike's rear brake lights. I don't remember for sure what diode I used. I have a bunch laying around here. More than likely it was a 1N914. You just need a 'fast-switching diode' that can work with very small signals. The tilt of the module is critical. By tilting it, you can control how sensitive to your deceleration it is.
Please note: The ST2 module requires about a 4 mph sudden drop in speed to trigger the device at its most sensitive setting.
Since I have not installed it yet on my new bike, I cannot say for sure if you will need the special starting procedure. But just in case, I found that if I put my foot on the brake and then start my bike, I cannot engage the cruise control. The ST2 module goes wonky. Additionally, it appears to need a charge before it can operate correctly. So I normally start my bike and back it out of the garage, and then shut it off waiting for my wife. When I go to start it this time I follow these steps:
1. Turn the key to the ON position. DO NOT Start It Yet **** DO NOT TOUCH THE BRAKE ****
2. After about 10 seconds, I put my foot on the Brake and hit the start button.
3. The system should be active now. When you get up to cruising speed you can turn on your cruise control. If you downshift with at least a 4 mph drop in speed, it will trigger the brake lights. It is pretty hard to do this around 30mph. I find that I have to be going about 45-50 mph to see the speed drop enough to have it light up my brake lights.
**** After you ride the bike for a while, you can shut it off normally; but when you start it back up, you need to follow the steps 1,2,3. The system will be warmed up already and will work fine. Just remember if you cannot get your cruise control to engage, then the ST2 module has not initialized correctly. Stop the engine; let all of the lights on the dash go out; then follow steps 1,2,3 to start it back up.
I do mostly long rides in the country, so I am on cruise control almost all the time. Is this thing the best device in the world - NO. But it does work! I assume it has a small spring-loaded pendulum type device inside, which when jarred, hits the 12-volt line and sends that signal out. I don't know for sure about that because I have not opened one up.
Again, sorry for the delay in answering. I hope this helps.
I installed the ST2 Brake and Brake Flasher modules today. When I get some time I'll post some pictures and commentary.
Prior to installing the ST2 equipment, I had installed the Show Chrome Form Fusion Trunk Light kit with the Plug & Play wiring harness. All of the wiring work that was done for the ST2 was made to that harness. I did not have to cut any BRP wiring. I don't know if this harness can be purchased separately, but if it can be, I highly recommend doing so. This write up covers the installation of the ST2 brake module as well as the ST2 brake strobing module.
Placement of the module is limited the flat surface under the passenger seat where it is not contacted by the underside of the seat.
I initially applied self-adhesive Velcro strips in multiple layers in order to both hold the module in place as well as provide some cushion.
Since I used the plug & play harness from Show Chrome, the wire colors did not match the BRP wire color chart, but it was very easy to locate and follow the corresponding wires for the installation. As per recommendation from Tiny2 and Bert Remington, a diode was spliced into the signal wire to eliminate the possibility of disruption of the cruise control.
It's important to leave room in the signal wire to splice in the stroke module if it is being used
After riding over a couple of days I found that the module needed to be moved and the position "tuned" to eliminate some of the false signals that it was sending to the lights. I used some strips of foam insulation that is used in shipping to change the degree of slope and buffer any lateral impacts that the module may have experienced. It's operating quite well now, but may still need more tweaking. The slope can be set too far forward, this was the reason that I added padding under the leading edge of the module.
Very special thanks to Bert Remington for exceptional tutorial help and materials. You ROCK!