I have a 2013 Spyder rt and would like to know how to load it on a triton trailer with out clipping the nose as I go up onto the ramp.
Thanks for any help
I have a 2013 Spyder rt and would like to know how to load it on a triton trailer with out clipping the nose as I go up onto the ramp.
Thanks for any help
You either have to get the nose of the trailer up so the ramp is not so steep; park it up against a hill or bank; or put up a ramp with 2x6's or 2x8's and stretch them back to lessen the transition onto the ramp! Or get a lower trailer. That's where I am right now, looking for a low 6x10 or 12 trailer!! :coffee:
Like @Mikey says, you need to change the angle of your ramp. The easiest way to do this is to add a "chunk" of wood at the base of the ramp. I use 2-3 scrap pieces of 2X4; this changes the angle just enough to avoid scraping.
--Exco
So would I need to angle the bike as I approach the ramp or straight on one I have the 2x6 underneath the gate?
Thank you
I also do not understand when you said to take the 2x6 and stretch back.
Sounds like I don’t rest the ramp on the wood?
No, use 2 x 6's long enuff to put them under the ramp with some sticking out that you would roll up on them first. The whole idea is to reduce the inverted V that the ramp and trailer bed make.
Back the trailer up to a curb and drop the ramp on it. Flattens out the angle plenty.
"underneath the gate".... that will lessen the angle. However, it will raise the gate and that defeats what you are trying to do. :sour: .... follow posts #2 & #3..... Mike :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by kjweed
Leave the trailer connected to your vehicle and use the tongue jack to raise the front of the trailer reducing the transfer angle. That’s what I do when loading my ‘21 RT into my toy hauler and works fine with no extra boards to keep up with.
How do I know how high to raise it?
Sorry very new to this.
Have somebody watch while you drive up slowly and stop you if you’re about to hit bottom. If they stop you raise it more and repeat. After about one time you’ll know just by feel or instinct how high you have to lift the front of the trailer.Quote:
Originally Posted by kjweed
If you scrape bottom slightly once in awhile it’s not the end of the world, because at some point, with only 4” of clearance, your going to scrape occasionally even on the road, say at a rough RR crossing, a bad pothole patch or pulling off the shoulder of the road and unless you hit bottom really really hard it’s not going to cause any damage other than minor scrapes that you’ll only see when you lay on the floor to change your oil.
PS I’ve assumed this is a standard height utility type trailer not a high clearance trailer, if it is high clearance my method may not work for you.
Ok. Thank you.
I have a similar problem with my Apogee Adapt-X 600 trailer and my Spyder RTL. I went to Home Depot and had them rip a 2x12x8' board into two 1' sections and a 6' remainder. When loading or unloading, I place the two 1' board under the wheels of my car and drive up on 'em, to raise the hitch and lower the back of the trailer. Then I open the loading ramp/gate and place the end on the 6' board raising the end of the ramp by an inch and a half or so. The two together straighten the ramp enough to get the Spyder on and off without bumping.
-- Joe B.
Dig a couple holes and back the trailer tires in them.
I think lifting the front of the trailer would be the easiest way to do it. BUT, if that is not feasible, then I would, with three ramps, put a jack under the center ramp; Drive the bike up 'til it reaches the lip of the trailer; then jack up the center ramp a bit to lessen the angle; & Drive onto the trailer.
Now that's an idea I never thought of.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gwolf
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adventurer
^^^^^This