Is there a way to improve the throttle response to get off the line faster?
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Is there a way to improve the throttle response to get off the line faster?
Pedal Box
I have the pedalbox, and it doesn't change anything bout Horsepower, it just opens the throttle valves waaaayy faster. It changes the machine completely, I do not scare easily, but sport++, made me change my undies...
Although I hardly change the settings, get it with the app, so you can change easily between modes, I for myself, find it an awesome upgrade.
It just works, be sure to read the manual, cause you have to match it with your machine, there are several tutorials on the net. If you need more info, just shout
Oops, saw to late, you own a Ryker, don't know if they have one for that particular machine... mine is an F3s
I googeled for you, and it seems it is available, for you Ryde,
https://www.chiptuning.com/nl/can-am.../pedalbox.html
This is the original supplier, read the maker...
I have the pedal box on my 2021 RTL and the pedal commander on my 2016 F3 Limited. They both are great eye openers for what these bikes can do off the line and added throttle response. I recently found out that they make one (pedal commander) for my 2017 mustang GT. I will be ordering it next month. Read very good reviews, similar to what I experienced from the spyder application.
I am not completely sure about this. From the research I've done. It appears that the stock setup has the throttle bodies closing from full open as you reach higher RPM. These throttle modifiers will keep the throttle bodies wide open at any speed. Theoretically, a wide open throttle body will give you more HP than one that is not. As long as the fuel injectors can keep up with demand. Which I assume they can since we've gotten no reports of running lean at high RPM with these devices.
How much HP increase is subject for debate. Probably not substantial. Still, an interesting hypothetical.
I don't have either but Martin The Vlogger did a comparison a while back.
https://youtu.be/7A1RZBXHpbI
The PedalBox will wake your Ryker or Spyder up for sure. We have one on our 900 Ryker.
https://lamonstergarage.com/search.p...ection=product
They are practically the same, and do the same thing. The pedal commander is on a bike that is about 100 pounds lighter and has the larger rear sprocket (2016 F3 Limited), so I would give it the edge off the line. The biggest difference that I see is that the pedal commander comes standard with being able to download the app and use it with your phone. In order to get that function on the pedal box, you have to go to the upgraded one. The pedal box has a slight and simple programming process to go through. It is very simple and anyone can do it. But the pedal commander is simply plug and play. I say get the one that is offered to you with the best deal. I had the commander first and was going to get it for the second bike. It was only $10 more than the pedal box. Both had free shipping, but the pedal commander dealer was charging tax. That increased the difference from $10 to $30. That made my decision for me. In short, I would give them both an "A", and say go with which ever is the cheapest, no difference in performance. Unless you are going to use the phone app, then go with the pedal commander.
This will do it for sure https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SL5JRsNM4SQ No doubt in my mind, if I owned a Ryker, this would be on it. Fast forward to 27:00 to see the results.
Pedal Box Sport+(Level 3) and HANG ON! 2018 RTL takes off like a rocket, wife prefers City mode, I usually leave it in Sport (Level 3). YMMV
Thanks everyone. I'm looking forward to changing my undies :yes:
What was your choice, pedalcommander or pedalbox, the only thing i see different is the pedalbox is waterproof, and the pedal box isn't, so needs a bit more care , mounting...wise
To get punch off the line, twist the twist grip wide open. If you’re already doing that, a Pedal Commander will buy you nothing – you need a tune.
The Pedal Commander increases (or decreases) the sensitivity of the twist grip, but does not improve throttle response.
Pedal Commander says, on their website:
“… throttle response is actually a measurement of the time taken for a change in power output”.
Look at the Pedal Commander drawing. Pedal Commander plugs in between the twist grip and the ECU. It alters the signal to the ECU. It does not change anything in the ECU. Pedal Commander provides a chart illustrating what Pedal Commander does to the twist grip signal. With Pedal Commander, to get 100% twist grip signal to the ECU, you must twist 100%. Same as without Pedal Commander. At 100% twist, you get 100% signal to the ECU in either case.
How do you get maximum power output from a Ryker? Open the throttle 100%. How do you get 100% throttle with Pedal Commander? Twist the grip 100%. How do you get 100% throttle without Pedal Commander? Twist the grip 100%. Same change in power output in the same amount of time in either case, therefore, same throttle response. By Pedal Commander’s own definition.
Look at Pedal Commander’s response chart in City mode. If you twist the grip 30%, Pedal Commander sends a 50% signal to the ECU. You get the same signal to the ECU as if you twisted the grip 50% without Pedal Commander. The throttle response in either case has to be the same, because the ECU has not been altered, the throttle body servo motor has not been altered, and the twist grip input to the ECU can be exactly duplicated in either case. By Pedal Commander’s own chart, the signal can be exactly duplicated by twisting the grip a bit more without Pedal Commander.
No question Pedal Commander changes twist grip sensitivity, but it does not and cannot charge throttle response.
I expect to get pushback from Pedal Commander owners on this. To them I simply ask, how does Pedal Commander, or any other similar device, improve throttle response without alteration to the ECU or other components? Not even Pedal Commander can explain this, because it does not happen. I spoke with a Pedal Commander representative about this.
To get more punch, you need a tune.
its a pseudo dream....................mental mind says "wow, holy cow" i got more power, just a little twist and it goes faster. mental mind, says "wow, holy cow - i have to twist this grip all the way max to giddy-up-speed. its SLOW
i'll skip the petal box and just twist the grip all the way if i want MAX power and speed......WOOHOO!!!
Cannot argue with statistics, but with the pedalbox, the spyder, feels nippier, throttle response is faster, pedalbox does not claim an increase in Horsepower, just a faster throttlebody.
Simply no need to overtwist the throttle, wakes the machine up.
For me(and many), it works...
I think the real question for this thread should be "Is there a way to get more traction off the line". I get throttle response off the line with my Ryker enough to spin the tires even in eco mode. That includes rolling starts up to about 15 mph.
In my mind that's wasted power/energy.
I've learned to ramp up exponentially to just below breaking point and it's amazing how quick these are. But more traction would be even better.
You can probably achieve this fairly easily yourself without any ECU or throttle mods/enhancements; just toss the OE Spec Kenda rear tire & fit a similar (but not necessarily identically) sized auto tire with the performance characteristics you desire and run it at an appropriate (lower) pressure suitable to the (lighter) load of a Ryker over an auto. ;) Just about any quality auto tire run at anything near the right pressure for the lighter load will almost certainly be a lot harder to get to break traction & therefore spin up than the OE spec tires are at any pressure, let alone the higher pressure their lighter construction requires just to hold the metal bits off the road surface!! :shocked:
I've found that here in South Oz in our prevailing conditions, I can spin up just about any quality auto tire fitted onto the rear of a Spyder (noting that Spyders are generally harder to make the rear tire spin on than Rykers are! ;) ) if I run 20-22psi or higher; while just about any quality auto tire will provide much better traction & basically reduce all but the most extreme efforts to make them spin when they're run at 14-16, or maybe even as high as 18 psi on the softer compound/higher traction tires... again noting that Spyders are heavier & generally harder to make the rear tires spin on than Rykers are.... :rolleyes: Altho, maybe our ambient temps here in Oz might be a tad higher on average than those experienced in most Northern States of the US, so it could be easier for me to do this here than it is for you to do over there...:dontknow:
Still, 'Better constructed & performing' auto tires run at the right pressure for the (light) load imposed by a Ryker will almost certainly give you better traction than the OE Spec Kendas & therefore very likely make it harder for you to generate wheelspin without really putting your mind to it... And they'll probably do it without any mods to your throttle or ECU either! :lecturef_smilie:
Just Sayin' :ohyea:
“Mental mind”? Woodaddict? Is there any other kind of mind?
I do not for one minute think I am getting “more power” from the Pedal XXXX, and from what I have read, nor do most others.
My ‘16 F3-T use to bog down when I gave it a big handful of throttle to get up to speed to enter the freeway. I had a tune installed, and it removed that non imaginary bogging down, along with a myriad of other little benefits.
When I bought my ‘21RT, a hard twist of the throttle created that same lag. I did not want to send my ECM off through the mail again, so I though I would try the cheaper Pedal XXXX in the first instance…….and yes, that lag is gone. It is the prime purpose of the Pedal XXXX, and the reduction of lag is what Lamont advertises as its feature.
Just out of interest, have you ever tried a Pedal XXXX, or is your conclusion simply based on your own personal experience without even trying one? There are a significant number of riders on here with pretty smart “mental minds”, who disagree with the conclusion you have drawn;)
Pete
The Pedal Commander absolutely does not make the throttle body faster.
These devices have been around since throttle-by-wire became a thing. I tested one - a Sprint Booster - on my '99 Mercedes SLK 16 years ago. The throttle bodies have a TPS - Throttle Position Sensor - that sends a signal to the ECU so that the ECU knows exactly the position of the actual throttle butterfly. I connected a data logger to the pedal signal and to the TPS signal and ran tests. The top graph is stock, the bottom graph is with the Sprint Booster. You can see a very small lag between the signal to the ECU and the TPS signal, but it is exactly the same in both cases.
If anyone wants to loan me a Ryker Pedal Commander, I'm happy to repeat the test. I am also happy to make a wager on the results, if you think Pedal Commander results are going to be any different.
As I said in my post, if anyone can explain to me HOW the Pedal Commander improves throttle response or makes the throttle body butterfly faster, I'm all ears. The Pedal Commander person with whom I spoke could not. Maybe someone else can do better than a Pedal Commander employee.
Sounds like they just ramp up the throttle quicker.
Like when you change the throttle on a motorcycle from a 180 degree to a 90 degree one.
Both open the throttle the same amount, just one does it faster and with less movement of your wrist.