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Gave my 2015 Spyder RT to my son several months ago. Didn't realize how much I would miss it. Looking to replace it. I've seen a 2014, 2015, and a 2016 that interest me, all with about the same mileage. Can someone tell me what the difference in them is other than the year and the price? :popcorn:
RT, RTS, & RTL models are the same up to MY 2018 when the big change was made to the cluster, which is still wonky 5 years and multiple firmware updates. I had a 2013, and now have a 2017. Exactly the same.
So the only difference is $$$. What I thought. Save $...get a 2014 if mileage is the same. Appreciate the confirmation.:cheers:Quote:
Originally Posted by oldguyinTX
Yes. What oldguyinTX says. Colors were the only changes from year to year. They figured how to make money by making no basic changes from year to year. Same thing with the 2010 RT through 2013 RT. 2013 was a slightly modified version to accept the "new" 1330 engine which was not ready for 2013...so they went with what they had. We all know that did not work out to good. :bowdown:
As others have said, they are the same. But I would like to add that there was a DESS error that seemed to occur more often in the 2014 RT than any other model. I had that error on my 2014 RT, but had it taken care of under warranty at the dealership. But it still would not make me shy away from one.
There is quite a difference between the 2013 & 2014. After that, it's 2018 before you see a significant change. Then 2020 you get another noticeable change. All things being equal. You'll probably find the biggest bang for the buck in the 2013. It got all kinds of bad press and has the 998. However, with the BRP 'Fixes' installed. And the 998 being no slouch (if you ride it as designed). The 2013 can be a good option. If you want the 1330. Which is probably a better powerplant for most riders. You'll have to go to at least a 2014.
Early 2014s had a couple of problems. The parking brake motor was prone to crapping out. Have a dealer check the VIN to see if it was replaced under warranty. Also, if the CB option was installed there were DESS errors caused by the CB. Not sure how that one was resolved, but it was I'm sure.
If you purchase a '15 or '16 get in line for a new front sprocket.
Boy is that an understatementQuote:
Originally Posted by ARtraveler
They learned well from automobile companies! It's been upwards of 50+ years since cars changed significantly each model year.Quote:
Originally Posted by ARtraveler
I went from a 2014 to a 2020. I love my 2020, except for the terrible cluster a BRP connect - for that reason I would prefer the older cluster design. In the end, though, I wouldn't make a decision just based on that. Perhaps there are have been some minor changes in the later years to address issues, so newer may be slightly better. I would also think re-sale is better newer, even without any real differences.
Based on my experience, I'd avoid a 2014. The 2014s had a lot of teething problems. DAMHIKT.Quote:
Originally Posted by blacklightning
Just curious if you made any progress on your Spyder.Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron14y
Several good used Spyders on this Forum.
Stay Healthy. ....:thumbup:
I would think the newest year you could afford, If they remained unchanged all those years, you would think the later ones would have most of the bugs and refinements worked out and fixed/updated by then. Just my thoughts.
I've contacted a couple close by trying to get information. Don't want to go out of the area and have to arrange shipping, etc. No response. I was in my own business for 29 years and the number one, absolute directive was that if we get a message, you return the call ASAP. Even if I am selling something and it is sold and someone then inquires, I respond and thank them for their interest. They might be interested in the next thing I am trying to sell.Quote:
Originally Posted by Little Blue
Right now, I am interested in three, both 2014 and 2015. None have responded so far. So, who knows.:sour:
Just found a beautiful 2015 close by. Good asking price. Then, I found out there is a $799.00 "dealer fee." To me, that is a bait and switch. Are there other costs involved to the dealer? I'm sure. I had a very successful business for 29 years and had these costs. I called them "overhead", and these costs were included in the selling price which also included "profit" (that dirty word to some). If I advertised something for $1.00, I didn't add another $ when someone wanted to buy it. I asked what the dealer fee covers. We'll see.:dontknow::gaah::banghead::riding:Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron14y
Just heard from the dealer and the OTD price is dependent on the ZIP code where I live (calculating the sales tax?). ?????:shocked:Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron14y
A dealer fee on a 2015 Spyder is a crock of you know what!
Sounds to me that the dealer is taking care of transfer of registration to your name and collecting the sales tax that usually has to be paid at that time. Sounds legit to me, but I'm not sure....:dontknow:.... BillQuote:
Originally Posted by Baron14y
You are correct. And I understand that. It is the other $1815.09 in BS fees (including $399.00 for a battery) that they added on top of that. I guess I won't be getting this Spyder.:mad::barf:Quote:
Originally Posted by Knizar
Sorry, Didn't know about ALL THAT extra crap, Guess its time to look elsewhere!Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron14y
Tis a shame. The Spyder was absolutely beautiful.Quote:
Originally Posted by Knizar
Custom 2017 Spyder F3 Limited - 15614 miles, might be interested in this one, posted FS on the forum yesterday.
Al in Kazoo
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ed-15614-miles
Not a single issue with my 2014 with 23,000 miles.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Baxter
Finally found one. Watched it for a week. Looked good. All of a sudden, the price went UP $1000.00. Let's see. No interest at this price, so, let's raise it $1000.00. I must have missed that class when getting my MBA. :dontknow::banghead::gaah: