My spyder is completely dead. Nothing comes on when I turn the key. I replaced the battery and still nothing.
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My spyder is completely dead. Nothing comes on when I turn the key. I replaced the battery and still nothing.
It may help to know what you are riding. But in this case, maybe not so much. How was the battery you replaced? Was it completely shot? If you are sure the new battery is good and 100% charged (it isn't all that uncommon to get a new, 'Dead' battery. Especially if it's been sitting).
Loose connections or corrosion can also give you fits.
:agree: Have it load tested!
Check the kill switch?
Battery is fully charged
So help us out here, many would love to help, what year Spyder RT do you have? (Since you posted in the RT Shop talk forum).
1. Replaced battery with fully charged battery. You've done that.
2. Checked battery voltage in Spyder. Check at battery terminals, check at battery end of cables themselves.
3. Checked all fuses in fuse boxes.
4. Checked kill switch operation, switch in Ride position.
5. Ignition key to On position, no lights, no dash, no anything?
Yew checked everything and no lights or anything
Jay13433 -- is the problem with your 2011 RT?
Please execute the following steps and report the results to us:
1. Put your ignition key in your pocket.
2. Press on the brake pedal and observe the brake light.
3. Press on the horn button and listen for sound.
Did the brake light illuminate and the horn sound?
If they didn't you have a problem in your battery-to-fuse box circuit or one of the main power fuses is open.
If they did you have a problem further into the electrical system.
PS answer the question BR and I asked -- what year and model Spyder.
Nothing come on
I said:You said:Quote:
Did the brake light illuminate and the horn sound?
If they didn't you have a problem in your battery-to-fuse box circuit or one of the main power fuses is open.
When you checked the fuses, did you check the J-series fuses?Quote:
Nothing come on
Right now sounds like you either had a pre-existing failure before you replaced the battery or the installation of the battery was incorrect. My assessment of this situation is time to tow your Spyder to the dealer and open your wallet wide.
It was dead before I changed the battery
Hey Jay, is there any reason you're avoiding answering the repeated questions about what year & model your Spyder is?? :dontknow: . It's beginning to look a little odd.... :rolleyes:
So what year & model IS your Spyder?? It might not add all that much, but then again, someone may have a similar year/model that's had a similar problem and so could help you - but unless you tell us the year & model of your Spyder, we'll never know, will we?? :banghead: . And with every new post that avoids providing those simple answers, your posts will increasingly look more suspect?!? :lecturef_smilie:
Just Sayin' ...... With my Moderator Hat on! :rolleyes:
2011 spyder rts
Here's the background https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...=1#post1638278
Mid-JulyTwo years earlier changed oil and installed RLS exhaust resulting in three P-codes https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...=1#post1517242 No resolution posted.Quote:
I took my spyder out for a ride yesterday and left the lights on all all night so the battery is dead. I put a charger and it still won't start and the sceen won't come on.
And now the Brake Light and Horn Sounding tests failed. Possible causes:
1 -- a J-series fuse is open
2 -- the old battery's failure wasn't lights on but rather a slow short (wiring or electronics) which still exists and has discharged the new battery.
3 -- the new battery isn't properly installed.
I'm thinking #2 and those types of failures are hard to isolate.
Thanks for that info Jay! :thumbup:
If BR's post doesn't get it sorted for you, I'm not sure if any of these following threads will help, but it might be worth quickly skimming/reading them - I think the last one is about an RS, but still may be helpful. There's a bunch more threads about 2011 RT's with dash or gauge problems, but these stood out in the quick search I did, so maybe.... :dontknow: . If you want/need a hand searching for more, drop me a PM. ;)
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ot-working-too
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ing-is-it-safe
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...RT-won-t-start
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...-RT-S-Heads-up!
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...rument-Cluster
Good Luck! :cheers:
I think you should tow it to a good motorcycle shop and have them troubleshoot it for you. Good luck.
I don’t know about the 11 but the 14-19 look in the fuse box. Right side bottom left looking at it is a huge square relay. That relay kills everything. My mechanic showed me a couple years ago when I had a locked up computer. Pull that relay and let bike sit for a few minutes. Turn on and it’s completely dead. Turn off, plug in relay and the system reset. It’s the largest one there. I think it’s a 40 or something like that. It’s also was the first thing he did in resetting my parking brake vbs failure. If you have 5hat check that relay. If it’s dead then bike is dead.
WmoaterThere are two exceptions required by law: brake lights and horn.Quote:
That relay kills everything.
The brake lights are RFB J4 => F2 => brake light switch. The horn is RFB J2 => F5 => horn.
That is why I use them as the most fundamental circuit test, as I did in Post #10 above.
Doesn't the 2011 have the battery under the seat with that crazy ground wire with the bolt you should not loosen? Maybe that bolt for the ground cable on the frame side is loose. That would cause no power anywhere.
So since this is 2011
1. CHeck that BOTH of the positive wires are connected to the battery.
2. Check the 60 amp fuse that goes to the front, it is under the LH side panel
3. check battery ground
4. check battery voltage under load
You are Correct Bert, I saw that. Just wanted to reset his computer the easiest way which might reset ignition, computer, screen and possibly shift into neutral if its locked in drive since he can’t see screen. I know when the 40 is pulled, that the brake sensors do not beep after turned off if the parking brake is applied. I had to pull one once and couldn’t get it into neutral it was locked in drive so it wouldn’t start. We pulled that relay and it reset to neutral. It still wouldn’t start so once we got it on the trailer we turned the key off and pulled the 40 so we could strap the wheels in neutral to not lock up transmission. Sort of like removing belt while off for easy gliding on a sled. The 40 allowed the machine to be off and not engage the brake and not beeping the entire time. So yes you are correct. Good catch! It doesn’t kill everything. I also agree with Joel. Ground wire is next. I believe there are 2 spots on the 11 but not sure of that. I know on BRP “SXS” if the ground is touching but loose the screen will blip on and off. That happens regularly but the Side x Side is a totally different beast but virtually the same motor setup. Not sure if the spyder will do that or not. Since he has no screen at all hard to tell.
This is an interesting discussion but I'm not sure the O.P. is still engaged in trying to solve this with his own resources at this point.