2015 RTL died on road - anyone else? Any fixes?

Hi
2015 RTL with 12654 trouble free miles until yesterday. Had ridden the bike just 1/2HR before taking another ride when the bike quit 2 miles from my house.
Went around corner and dash display went out and engine and fuel pump quit.
Had hazard lights and Ebrake work and that's it.
Checked the obvious Kill switch, battery connections and voltage, grounds to engine and frame, connectors and wiring for harness shorting and critter damage.
All fuses have power. I have to get a wiring diagram to diagnose further but thought I would post to see if anyone had same problem.

Thanks

Maybe have the battery tested.

I would make sure it wasn't the battery itself first thing.

I do have a battery load tester and can pull 250 amps with quick reserve return.
I'm thinking ignition switch ?.

You were riding it when it shut down? Doesn't sound like the battery to me.

Yes .
Just like you shut the key off.

We need to trace the ignition circuit; it might be a loose or faulty relay. First, double-check F2 which powers the ignition switch, ECM, etc.

Thanks for the diagram. I copied and printed it.
I did swap that relay with one from R/S fuse / relay box with ECM/ignition switch relay and still the same.
I'm in the process of removing ignition switch and is not for the faint of heart but now with the diagram I can check feed from switch to fuse block.
Thanks

Could not find a video for removing console box or ignition switch.

That battery maybe bad.

That should be pulling over 300 amps for load.

Put the load tester back on and check your volts while load testing

Take the battery out and bring it in for testing.

And dont assume the bike wont shut down if the battery is in the bike and motor running. The battery could be bad .

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Originally Posted by Bensonoid

I would make sure it wasn't the battery itself first thing.

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:agree: with 2 & 3 ..... Mike :thumbup:

I put the battery charger on and turned the key on and the instrument panel still doesn't light. When I turn the kill switch on and off the fuel pump will run, but not when the key is cycled and still no dash lights.

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Originally Posted by bikergirl

I put the battery charger on and turned the key on and the instrument panel still doesn't light. When I turn the kill switch on and off the fuel pump will run, but not when the key is cycled and still no dash lights.

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Can you use the wiring diagram to troubleshoot the ignition circuit? Sure does sound like a problem in the switch wiring or the switch itself.

Try a booster pack on the battery

Not sure if this will help, but:

Thanks Jetfixer and UtahPete for the diagrams.
I'M all done for today. Been at it since 8:00 this morning and it's now 8:00PM. Kept me up last night thinking about it.
Taking this thing apart with a sore back is not fun especially when you have to figure out what panel to take off next and how without breaking it.
Didn't get to ignition switch yet but your help maybe I won't have to.
Will give it another shot tomorrow after I dug out my power probe and will give me the voltages on the circuit's.
With the schematics you guys gave me maybe I have a shot.
Thanks again

You're very welcome. And, I appreciate the feedback.

Go to www.canammanuals.com and buy the service manual. Well worth the $25 or so. It'll have everything you need, including what terminals to test and the expected voltages.

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Originally Posted by bikergirl

Didn't get to ignition switch yet but your help maybe I won't have to.

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It's not the ignition switch. You say the fuel pump turns off and on when open/close the kill switch. The kill switch takes a terminal of the ECM to ground. That indicates the ECM is powered up and the only way that can happen is if the ignition switch feeds power to the ECM. Also, the fuel pump ground circuit is controlled by the ECM.

I think it might be relay R2, prestart relay. Check to see if it's loose. In fact, check all the relays for looseness.

The controls, circuits, and current paths are complicated on a Spyder. Just because one button or switch causes something to operate does not mean that button or switch is connected directly to the item. That's why you need to get the service manual and look at the wiring diagram!

Excellent advice. Retired from a Chevrolet dealership where I worked for 43 years specializing in transmissions and electrical diagnosis and Can Am ranks right up there with the technology of today's vehicles.
I retired for 2 reasons, I got hurt in an accident at work and don't want to work on them anymore. My wife is Bikergirl, she has been riding the Spyder so long now, I wonder if she forgot how to ride her other bike a 1987 450 Honda Rebel, which I worked on for 9 months to get it running correctly after 2 other guys had it apart... a sweet little bike according to her... but the older she gets she rides the Spyder more. We pulled the Rebel out of the garage; gave it a wash and it's ride ready till the Spyder is well again.
I'm freaking out because Spyderquest is coming up next month.

Here's our latest update - down loaded Manual, checking modules, wiring, and relays. So far, power and grounds except for the instrument cluster all look good, and the nightmare continues...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bikergirl

Here's our latest update - down loaded Manual, checking modules, wiring, and relays. So far, power and grounds except for the instrument cluster all look good, and the nightmare continues...

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With the ignition turned off do the hazard lights work? If not then that points to a problem with the cluster. If you haven't already removed the cluster do so and do a bench test to power it up. Terminal CL-9 is powered full time. Terminal CL-8 is powered from the main power relay. That relay is activated through the ECM. If it doesn't light up with power to both 8 & 9, and of course with ground connected, that indicates to me the cluster may be toast. If the cluster lights up then I think there may be a problem with the ECM. The best bet at this point is to get BUDs connected and test the modules with it. You'll have to go to a dealer to get that done unless you're fortunate to have a SL member close by who has BUDs.

Well finally found and fixed problem thanks to IdahoMtnSpyder steering me in right direction.
Did as you suggested with jumping terminals even though hazard lights worked, and dash powered up.
Then checked voltages coming from bike and found only 1.5 volts to terminal CL-8 and park switch PBS-7 on that same circuit.
Then checked voltage at fuse F7 LFB 10amp to cluster, TCM, DPS and gauges was 12.9 volts. Then checked resistance from CL-8 to B2 of fuse.
Found high resistance in that circuit. Used my magnifier on my phone and seen corrosion on terminal. I think the only way to get to the back of fuse block it is to pull the funk and front clip to pull the harness.
So instead, I used terminal cleaner and a fluid that Mercedes-Benz uses that promotes terminal contact. Rechecked and now powers up and starts.
Thank you for steering me in the right direction. With all the testing I was doing I started getting lost in the forest.
Thanks UtahPete and Jetfixer and everyone else for the help.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bikergirl

Well finally found and fixed problem thanks to IdahoMtnSpyder steering me in right direction.
Did as you suggested with jumping terminals even though hazard lights worked, and dash powered up.
Then checked voltages coming from bike and found only 1.5 volts to terminal CL-8 and park switch PBS-7 on that same circuit.
Then checked voltage at fuse F7 LFB 10amp to cluster, TCM, DPS and gauges was 12.9 volts. Then checked resistance from CL-8 to B2 of fuse.
Found high resistance in that circuit. Used my magnifier on my phone and seen corrosion on terminal. I think the only way to get to the back of fuse block it is to pull the funk and front clip to pull the harness.
So instead, I used terminal cleaner and a fluid that Mercedes-Benz uses that promotes terminal contact. Rechecked and now powers up and starts.
Thank you for steering me in the right direction. With all the testing I was doing I started getting lost in the forest.
Thanks UtahPete and Jetfixer and everyone else for the help.

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I found a corroded battery terminal to be the source of electrical gremlins on my wife's Spyder. Sorry I didn't think of that possibility earlier.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bikergirl

Well finally found and fixed problem thanks to IdahoMtnSpyder steering me in right direction.
Did as you suggested with jumping terminals even though hazard lights worked, and dash powered up.
Then checked voltages coming from bike and found only 1.5 volts to terminal CL-8 and park switch PBS-7 on that same circuit.
Then checked voltage at fuse F7 LFB 10amp to cluster, TCM, DPS and gauges was 12.9 volts. Then checked resistance from CL-8 to B2 of fuse.
Found high resistance in that circuit. Used my magnifier on my phone and seen corrosion on terminal. I think the only way to get to the back of fuse block it is to pull the funk and front clip to pull the harness.
So instead, I used terminal cleaner and a fluid that Mercedes-Benz uses that promotes terminal contact. Rechecked and now powers up and starts.
Thank you for steering me in the right direction. With all the testing I was doing I started getting lost in the forest.
Thanks UtahPete and Jetfixer and everyone else for the help.

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Thanks for letting us know you fix the issue and what the resolution was. That info goes forward into the future to help others.

Hats off to you for troubleshooting the issue and to everyone that helped out.

Great work!

Tim