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Im selling my 622 Trailer this week and wanted to confirm that there will be no compatabiity or fitment issues. Going from a 2017 F3 Limited to a 2016 RT. It has a module connected under the passenger seat and is plug and play. The plugs are the square ones. TIA
I have never worked on a RT so any tips will be appreciated
Either of the BRP trailers will be compatible, fit, & tow well behind any model Spyder as long as it's got a suitable hitch, OE or A/mkt - even tho BRP/SOME Dealers will tell you that you MUST use an OE BRP hitch, but that's just codswallop invented by the marketing guys & sold by the unknowing to the gullible! :rolleyes:
Also, the BRP/CanAm Spyder wiring looms & computers etc are substantially the same across the various models with only minor/incidental differences, so any module & wiring that worked on an F3 should work on an RT & vice versa, just so long as you connect it all back up properly! ;)
All of which means you should be good to go! :ohyea: . Just take your time removing all the extra tupperware, and it might be worthwhile taking lotsa pics as things come off so you can see how to put it all back again! :thumbup:
As I read your post, it sounds as if, because you are selling your RT622 trailer, you plan to remove from your 2016 RT the trailer harness and modules?Quote:
Originally Posted by AY4B
Removing those is fairly easy, access is entirely on the Spyders left side. You simply disconnect the two trailer connectors, remove those modules, then reconnect the two oem connectors back together. That is how it is for the Can Am accessory trailer harness / modules. If your setup is aftermarket, and spliced into the Spyders wire harness, proceed with caution.
Thats what I thought, I just wanted to do my due diagence and make sure. Everything, The Hitch, Wiring Harness, and module is OEM.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
Thanks, Bill Jimenez
I got to it today and the plug is the wrong size. Who sells the adapter plugs for a RT?
Im talking about the adapter plug that goes under the seat. The one that is on my module plugs into my F3L and is 6 prongs across. The one on the RT is 5 prongs across.
Pictures would help.
This is the 6 prong that came from my F3L.
Notice the 4 prong trailer plug behind and to the right.
The RT has a 5 prong plug. Just a tad smaller.
I found this link but it does not have a pic
.https://can-am-shop.brp.com/on-road/...e-harness.html
Sorry, I was under the impression you were removing entirely the trailer hitch and the trailer electrical harness on account of your topic title stating you sold the RT622.
By the sound of it now, you are trying to swap a F3 electrical harness onto a RT. The trailer with 4 pin will work fine with a Can Am 4 pin setup designed for the vehicle the wire harness is installed on.
By your recent comments, you are finding one Spyder had a twelve pin electrical harness while the other had a ten pin harness. In that case, you will need the correct Can Am harness and module to have a plug and play installation. The 4 pin for the trailer itself remains the same.
I did sell the trailer but am doing the conversion to his RT. The square 4 pin connection from the trailer to the Spyder remains the same. What is different is the plug that the module taps into under the seat. Ill probably have to call BRP and get the proper Y adapter and module, but first I will call around locally to dealers to see if it is something they carry. I was hoping someone on this forum knew what I was talking about and had the right harness laying around. The module I have has 6 wires coming in one side and 4 wires going out the other side. The RT has 5 to 4.Quote:
Originally Posted by PMK
Understand the goal now. The dealer should have a chart that shows which models get which electrical module.
Yes maybe someone here has what you need, if not, it may be difficult and expensive getting it new from a dealer.
Sorry I misunderstood initially, I was under the impression the trailer was gone and you were merely removing the electrical stuff, not reinstalling on another Spyder.
The splitter that fits his bike is available separately. About $40. The module and wire that goes to the trailer can be reused.
Plugs right in. The module output wire goes to a connector under the saddlebag. I’ve done F3 to RT, RT to F3, old RT to new RT, and every combination. Works. Call if you have questions. Joe
This maybe? I was quoted more than the 40.00 in the above reply though.
710006904
Could you supply a part number please?Quote:
Originally Posted by cptjam
Here is the link with prices. I ordered the one on the top row , left. for the 2010-2017 RT. It does not show one for the newer RT'sQuote:
Originally Posted by K80Shooter
https://can-am-shop.brp.com/on-road/...cessories.html
The third one over, top row, lists RT-2018. The harnesses were discussed last year. I just reviewed some old threads, particularly these. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...er+module+2018 & https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...er+module+2018 What you actually have is a 12 pin connector, not 6 pin, and your buyer has a 10 pin connector, not 5 pin. 2010 to 2017 RTs used the 10 pin connectors. 2016 & 2017 F3s used a 12 pin connector. Both RTs and F3s, 2018 on, use a 16 pin connector. You should be golden with the one you have on order.Quote:
Originally Posted by AY4B
Once I have the left side rear Tupperware off, is the wiring plug straight forward to find and unplug? Or is it buried and will need to be tracked down…..Quote:
Originally Posted by PMK
Thanks in advance for any insight.:D
I had 3 Rt and F3 all worked good with 622 trailer. On 2019 Rt I had to get a different harness it was $40 .
You dont have to remove the left side Tupperware. You raise the seat and remove the black plastic cover on the left side. The plug you are looking for is facing the front end and EZ to get to. The more difficult part is removing a couple or rear panels which isn't really that hard to do. I posted a video from Pierre that shows the whole operation. I routed my cable going from the seat area to the back lower than he did. On the video he ran it thru the upper hole that is big and EZ to use but is higher than the plastic cover. I ran it lower down where the main wires are run. It is a little harder because the hole is much smaller and a tight squeeze to get the plug thru. Its worth the extra effort because it makes for a cleaner installation.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brentc