Kenda Kanine rear tire trial!
Hello, just replaced my original Kenda rear tire on a 2020 F3 at 12,200 miles. Probably could have finished the year, but have a few trips planned! So went with the Kenda Kanine to see if they are going to hold up? No weights needed and running at 24lbs, was recommended by the shop that installed the tire. Will keep you all updated.
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Do NOT run rear Kanines at 24 psi! Try 20 psi one-up.
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Originally Posted by
BajaRon
I am not so sure the center will wear out at 24 psi. The Kanine has a stronger tread ply and I believe they will wear much more evenly. We shall see. I think 24 psi is a good place to start.
My wife has already worn out a rear Kanine at 17,000 miles. 24 psi is way too high!
We were running 23 psi for 15,000 miles and it wore terribly in the centre - I posted photos several weeks ago - I dropped it to 20 but it did not help the wear. The shoulders would have still had at least 4mm of tread while the centre was bare by the time it was replaced.
From what I have seen, based on wear patterns, they are using the same carcass with perhaps a different tread compound, if people think they grip better. I can't say because I am still running and enjoying OEM Kendas on our S.
We ride hard in the corners and fast (8 to 10 over) on the highways, which means 75 to 85 mph, at which speeds a tyre carcass could easily balloon out in the centre if it is not well designed. I don't think these are well designed in that sense.
BE CAREFUL running lower than recomended pressures in KENDA tires!!
Hey guys, word of warning!!
RUNNING LOWER THAN RECOMMENDED PRESSURES IN SPYDER/RYKER SPEC KENDA TIRES MAY NOT BE SAFE!! :lecturef_smilie:
It's pretty safe in car tires that have been built to carry much heavier loads because they are made strongly enough to handle it; but the Spyder/Ryker spec Kendas run sidewall & tread thread plies that are about 1/3rd thinner (& therefore weaker!) than the thread plies in most car tires, AND the steel belts in the tires use wires that are thinner/weaker too; PLUS the 'rubber' itself is thinner, more pliable, & less sturdy than the 'rubber' normally used in a car tire!! :shocked:
All of which adds up to the Kenda Tires that are touted as being spec'ced for Spyders/Rykers ACTUALLY NEEDING to run at pressures that are fairly close to those recommended on the tire placard/in the manual or you risk a catastrophic failure!! :banghead:
Sadly, that means that the wide & pliable rear tire WILL wear out in the centre of the tire tread more quickly than on the edges, simply because as the revs increase the sidewall plies & the tread plies/belts aren't strong enough to stop the tread from 'bagging' or 'throwing out' in the middle of the tread due to the centrifugal forces. This means that if you're travelling any faster than about 20 mph then you're onky running on the 2 or so inch wide strip in the middle; but because the tire is so lightly constructed, that's gonna happen regardless of the pressure you run it at! In fact, running it at just 'a little' lower pressure than that recommended may even increase the throw out & therefore the wear in the centre strip; while running it at anything much more than 10-15% less than the recommended pressure is likely to allow the sidewalls to flex even more, causing over-heating in the carcass as you ride, and eventually destroying the tire's internal construction - and you really don't want THAT to occur while you're ryding at speed!! :yikes:
So if you are running Kenda tires on your Spyder or Ryker, I'd STRONGLY SUGGEST that you ALWAYS run pressures that are at or close too those recommended for the tire! Because of their lightweight construction, they REALLY NEED that much air in them to allow them to work properly & carry the load, and that 'centre of tread wear' is simply another unavoidable consequence of the tire's construction! :gaah: . That's why so many of us run stronger & heavier car tires, where the lower pressures we suggest are appropriate for the load but aren't likely to be a concern due to thor heavier tire's stronger & more robust construction! :thumbup:
Still, it's your Spyder/Ryker, your tires, so you can do what you like - I'm just saying that running lower than recommended pressures in a lightly constructed Kenda tire is NOT a great idea, and could potentially cause a catastrophic failure in a tire built that lightly! :rolleyes:
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Use a temp gun to work out what is happening with your tyre pressures
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Peter Aawen
Hey guys, word of warning!!
RUNNING LOWER THAN RECOMMENDED PRESSURES IN SPYDER/RYKER SPEC KENDA TIRES MAY NOT BE SAFE!! :lecturef_smilie:
Hi Peter.
I'm sure your warning is well intentioned, but it looks a bit over the top.
I've done over 3,000 miles at 20 psi in the back tyre without problems, some of it in temperatures over 100F, and much of it at 75 and 85 mph (110 to 135 kph). Let's bring some science into this.
Here is a rundown of the temps on the tread and sidewalls - what do you think?
Front tyre:
And here is the rear tyre:
The outer tread areas are hotter because they are doing most of the work at these pressures. If the tyre is running critically flat the sidewall temps will go up. They have not in this case.
The rear tyre temps will always be higher while driving because there is more power transmitted through them than in the front, which are just experiencing rolling resistance most of the time.
I've used an IR temp gun before to establish tyre pressures on a trailer, unladen and loaded. It works. They use tyre temps across the tread in racing to help sort out handling and suspension parameters.
Seriously, I think you should delete your comment or at least take out the ridiculously bold type because your comments are ill-advised and uninformed.