Big cast aluminum thing

I am building a hydraulic hand brake assist for my 2010 RT. The master cylinder is mounted and turned out to be a bit of work but a very neat installation. I can provide pics and info if anyone is interested.
I am now at removing the large aluminum casting to which the footpeg, floorboard, and brake pedal are mounted. I have removed all of the bolts. It is loose. I cannot remove it. There is something behind the brake slave cylinder that is restricting the removal. The next logical thing for me to do is to crawl under and see if I can determine the restriction.
I am somewhat phisically handicapped, but I can do this. I just thought that if someone on here is experienced with this, I could save some time and discomfort.
Any ideas ?

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Originally Posted by 12tree

I am building a hydraulic hand brake assist for my 2010 RT. The master cylinder is mounted and turned out to be a bit of work but a very neat installation. I can provide pics and info if anyone is interested.
I am now at removing the large aluminum casting to which the footpeg, floorboard, and brake pedal are mounted. I have removed all of the bolts. It is loose. I cannot remove it. There is something behind the brake slave cylinder that is restricting the removal. The next logical thing for me to do is to crawl under and see if I can determine the restriction.
I am somewhat phisically handicapped, but I can do this. I just thought that if someone on here is experienced with this, I could save some time and discomfort.
Any ideas ?

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Thanks for sharing ..... I can't move around as well I used to either ../... I have learned how to use a small or medium ( depending ) size mirror..... really save the back and knee's ..... Question have you re-moved all the parts that might obstruct getting it off ??? ............Mike :thumbup:

The casting of the side plate gos around the brake cylinder. Side plate is what your peg and passenger floorboards connect to. I will see if I can find you a video. of the casting.

http://www.lamonstergarage.com/rt-ch...ckage-install/ Ok fixed link 5/1/2020

Don't crawl under stuff. Use mirrors and flash lights.

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Originally Posted by CopperSpyder

The casting of the side plate gos around the brake cylinder. Side plate is what your peg and passenger floorboards connect to. I will see if I can find you a video. of the casting.

https://www.lamonstergarage.com/rt-c...ckage-install/

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Hmmmmmm, no video there that I can see.

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Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder

Hmmmmmm, no video there that I can see.

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I couldn't see anything either

Ok I fixed the link in post #3 and here are some photos of the one I took off my 2012 RTL when I added chrome floorboards.



You can see the back side of the support casting that gos around the master cylinder. see the master cylinder in the last photo that the casting gos around. when you take the casting off you have to make sure not to pull the boot and pin out of the master cylinder, if you do you will have to end up taking it to someone with a BUDs system to reset your brakes. It not an easy job.

Thanks to all.
GWolf, I have jack stands.
C

Thanks to all.
GWolf, I do have jack stands.

CopperSpyder, I have already removed the pushrod that goes from the brake pedal and sticks into the master cylinder boot. Does this mean that the brakes will have to be reset with a Buds System ? Do dealers have this ?
It appears that the master cylinder needs to be removed to remove the casting. I don't suppose that there is any way to remove the master cylinder without having to disconnect the brake lines and fluid lines.
Thanks,12tree

When you say push rod the little one? There is a big one that you see in my last photo that has a rubber boot on it, That is the one you have to be careful not to pull out when you remove the plate. If that bigger rod comes out brake fluid will leak all over and fill the boot.

Yes dealers have buds systems if you need to have them reset your brakes. If the big pin pulls out of the master cylinder all the fluid will come out and you get air in the ABS, now you need buds to re set.

So if you don't mind me asking? Why mess with the brake cylinder? there are ways to add a hand brake without removing the cylinder. Have you tried doing a search for hand brakes on a Spyder RT? There are some options out there without messing with the master cylinder.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...F&&FORM=VDRVRV

No need to reinvent the wheel.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...rake&p=1232376

Copper Spyder,
I really appreciate the info. I seriously had no intentions of messin with the master cylinder. I was planning to mount my slave cylinder to the backside of the aluminum casting. I was also going to modify the brake lever to accept the pushrod clevis of the new slave cylinder. It seemed to me that if it was not too difficult to remove the cast plate, it would be easier to do this fabricating on the workbench. Now I realize that will be easier to do the fitting with skinned knuckles than to remove the cast plate. I also have a new design (in my head) that is simpler and won't require as much activity behind the casting.
I am designing my own because I have not yet seen a homemade that I like (and I'm cheap).
Thanks again.
12tree

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Originally Posted by 12tree

I am designing my own because I have not yet seen a homemade that I like (and I'm cheap).

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I take it price is concern with the one ISCI has.

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Originally Posted by 12tree

Copper Spyder,
I really appreciate the info. I seriously had no intentions of messin with the master cylinder. I was planning to mount my slave cylinder to the backside of the aluminum casting. I was also going to modify the brake lever to accept the pushrod clevis of the new slave cylinder. It seemed to me that if it was not too difficult to remove the cast plate, it would be easier to do this fabricating on the workbench. Now I realize that will be easier to do the fitting with skinned knuckles than to remove the cast plate. I also have a new design (in my head) that is simpler and won't require as much activity behind the casting.
I am designing my own because I have not yet seen a homemade that I like (and I'm cheap).
Thanks again.
12tree

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Yes it will be easier to work from under, just get it up high on 3 jack stands then take the muffler and side panels off. Good luck with your project let us know how your doing. :thumbup:

I like people like you. Just because someone else has done it one way, doesnt mean there isnt another, possibly better way to do it. This is also my philosophy that I use daily and also at General Electric where I build large generators for power plants. There is always a better way.