Hi all I might have asked this before . As anyone used a oil pump / suction tube in filler to save getting right under bike and undoing drain plugs TWO ! + no room to put container under
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Hi all I might have asked this before . As anyone used a oil pump / suction tube in filler to save getting right under bike and undoing drain plugs TWO ! + no room to put container under
Yes some members have done it this way ........... and there was lots of comments about the amount of debris that might not get sucked out ..... one of the reasons to change the oil is to get that debris out of the oil ..... some said if you suck it out right after stopping the engine , most of the debris will be suspended. ..... maybe / could be ....... your call ..... Mike ....... PS, I use the drain plugs, they have magnets on them and will hold metal particlesQuote:
Originally Posted by Nico75
I know everyone is looking for an easier way to do just about everything. For me, draining the oil is really the only right way to do it. It's really the only way to know that you've gotten as much contaminants out as possible. I suppose sucking the oil out might suffice. I'm just not thrilled with the 'might suffice' part.
I have to agree with Ron. What could be easier than gravity?Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaRon
Someone posted not to long ago that they measured both ways and if I remember correctly just sucking it out you were leaving over a quart in the engine/transmission that would not be changed,
If you take an empty 2 gallon or 2.5 gallon oil bottle, such as the picture, the flat style, screw the cap back on the pour spout, and then cut a large hole in one side of it, you can slide them under a Spyder without even jacking it up. I have been using them for years to drain oil from several different kinds of motorcycles, without jacking them up. After the oil is drained, you can unscrew the cap and carefully pour the used oil into a 5 gallon oil bucket to take in to the oil reclaim sites. If you can't get your hands in there to unscrew the plug. you can always finish unscrewing it with an open end wrench of a set of channel locks. Just let the plug fall into the drain pan. You can get it out when the oil stops dripping. If you put the front wheels up on even a set of 6 inch ramps, there is plenty of room to unscrew the plugs by hand. It is not nearly as much trouble as setting up a suction device and then having to pull the plugs also.
Cut out about where the paper sticker is on the side of the oil bottle and you got a free drain pan, that is only about 3 inches tall at most.
A two gallon bottle will hold all the oil that should be in any Spyder, with freeboard to spare.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/25...g?v=1571439590
This seems to come up every couple of weeks. You won't get all the old oil out.
See the post dated 4-12.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...hlight=sucking
Mercedes Dealers have been using the Suck Method for years. Me personally, I use the drain plugs
You have EXPEDIENCE and you have QUALITY. It's great when they both produce the same results. But it doesn't happen often.Quote:
Originally Posted by KC61
Read The Fine Manual.
I never did figure out how to use jack stands if the my scissor jacks (3 maybe 4) are in way. And to keep Ryker level. So I bought some 2x6 and 2x8 boards and built some wheel supports. I screwed the 1st three in stack together. Four boards were plenty high. 5 boards OK/not necessary, and I had to raise the jack up off of the floor. I think it was when I had 5 boards stacked it gave me a total of 13" from floor to frame instead of 5" with tires on the floor. Of coarse after 1st 3 boards are being used I rotated around to each wheel adding the last 2 boards. CAUTION> If you decide to go this route make sure the trans lock is on and ABSOLUTELY USE a couple of rods to lock front wheels (see last pic.) I feel this is much safer with the actual wheels blocked up and it gives you more room to work. By the way each board is about 14 & 3/8" long (72" divided x 5 pcs)
Nice pics and good idea!
Rhino 12,000 # ramps are about $50 at most auto part houses.
For leveling, lift the final drive with a floor jack.
Since factory 5W40 oil is rated by BRP for only up to 104 F, anyone else running 10W50 oil for higher ambient?
The Mercedes dealer is not doing oil changes on a Spyder nor would they have any idea how. VERY different engines.Quote:
Originally Posted by KC61
Again, you cannot change oil on a dry sump engine by sucking oil out the dipstick tube. It simply does not work.
Hi All,
I have been using a MityVac vacuum pump to suck oil from dipstick tube to change oil in all my vehicles for over a decade, and never a problem. Those vehicles include 3 Mercedes with V8, 1 Audi with V8, 1 Nissan with V6, 2 Mercedes with V6. But now I can't do that to the BMWs because they eliminate the dipstick on newer engines. On Yamaha Waverunners, using vacuum pump is the only way to change the oil, Yes those TR-1 engines are dry sump just like the Spyders. I have not tried to change oil on my 2013 Spyder RT yet, will see.
Cheers and ryde safe.
Not all dry sump engines are built the same way, and not all the oil tanks on dry sump engines are in the same places.Quote:
Originally Posted by trong
You can change part of the oil in the Spyder with a vacuum, but if you want to change all of the oil, you will have to pull the drain plugs.