Plastic encapsulated nuts

I need to remove the frunk to replace the LH headlight bulb (UK model)
There are 2 bolts underneath that hold the bottom of the frunk to the chassis, they screw into plastic encapsulated nuts The bolts are not stainless just plain steel, one of the bolts is rusted into the nut, now the nut is just turning in its plastic holder, how am I supposed to get this bolt undone as there is no way of holding the nut. They do the same nasty trick on the inside of the front fender supports.
I dont think derusting agents will help as you can't hold the nut with anything
Anyone else had this problem

Alex

Yes. Split the plastic encapsulated nut. Remove steel nut. Replace with ss. Replace trapper.

Why are you removing the frunk to replace a headlight bulb? Remove the mirrors, and side screws under the mirrors that hold on headlight frame piece. You also need to remove the side panels, (the ones that pop off). Then remove the big nut that holds the headlight adjusting knob so when you go to pull the headlight out, the cable comes with it. I think the black plastic covers on each top cornet of the frunk pop off. Make sure the headlight doesn't fall out when removing the 4 bolts for each headlight housing and carefully with the top bolts as they can fall down into the bowels of the bike never to be seen again.

This is the headlight frame that needs to be removed.

Flamewinger,

I beleave the European models have separate high and low beams, and place the low beams in the spot where American models have for running/fog lights.
Having put running lights in our 2014 RT I did remove the frunk to make it easier.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PW2013STL

Flamewinger,

I beleave the European models have separate high and low beams, and place the low beams in the spot where American models have for running/fog lights.
Having put running lights in our 2014 RT I did remove the frunk to make it easier.

---

That is true for our Aussie & Kiwi Spec Spyders too!! Hi-beam where your North American Hi-Lo headlights are, while lo-beam is where your running/fog lights go! :thumbup: None of this 'shutter switching' stuff for us....:ohyea: But it does make fitting LED headlights cost a bit more, AS WELL as making it pretty much necessary to remove the Frunk to change the lo-beam globes! :gaah:

Not sure how you're supposed to split the rusted nut when you can't get to it, it's up inside the plastic. I ran into the same issue when replacing the left side hard bag on mine. Both the top nuts were seizes with no way to get to them. Ended up having to drill them out and replace with something different.

On a RT, the right fog light/low beam is very easy. Use that to practice on. The left one has the air intake snorkel slowing you down, but the frunk does it have to come off. Use a long flat tip screwdriver to release the cover. Remove it out the top. Unscrew the bulb, then disconnect the wire. Connect new bulb, install, and replace the cover. I use a length of wood dowel to pry the intake out of the way. It helps to trim the lower tab a couple of mm.
If you can’t get at the lower nuts, you might have to drill it out and replace.

Hate to say it, but you may be able to drill the head off the bolt or screw then when you get to where you can get your hands on that nut, have your way with it!!!Good Luck!!!!

On uk model low beam is in the frunk only high beam is in the top, l/ h low bulb gone air duct is across back of bulb cover. Typical BRP Cock up

If only you could turn the bike upsidedown

Managed it now, remove bottom plastic plate you can see the nut, squashed plastic outer and screwed bolt in, wd40 unscrew till it starts tighten repeat operation about 50 times and it s out replaced with stainless steel bolt. So easy with frunk off, but for bolt problem, frunk off in less than an hour