I have tried the park f6 tool and a crow bar. That funny nut not moving. Is there anything else I can use? What am I doing wrong ughhhhhh
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I have tried the park f6 tool and a crow bar. That funny nut not moving. Is there anything else I can use? What am I doing wrong ughhhhhh
We found a wrecking bar fits perfectly.
Are you using a cheater bar? If anything, go to Home Depot and buy a 3' piece of metal plumbing pipe and use it to lengthen the wrench. Make sure the bearings need to be replaced. After I did mine I found the OEM ones were fine.
A 5-sided freakin' nut?? Why in the name of all sense would anyone do that except to force the owner to either purchase a special wrench or to force him/her to have an authorized shop do the work?
look againQuote:
Originally Posted by kep-up
There is no 5 sided nut.
Is it a reverse thread maybe? :dontknow:Quote:
Originally Posted by NVERLAST1
It's a normal right hand thread. As Cptjam suggested, a wrecking bar or something similar that can be wedged between two opposing slots will work.Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahPete
Like this?
Yes. Put a large wrench on it and turn.Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahPete
Can you explain how to 'put a large wrench' on the wrecking bar? I'm having trouble visualizing this technique. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grandpot
More like a big A__ crescent wrench slimmed down to grip the flat width of the pry bar that is stuck into the slot of the regular threaded nut.... if you do this more than a few times, grind a custom fit piece of flat stock about 1/4 inch thick to fit...
And, how does this grip the nut?Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroPilot
Okay, so the picture above shows the Park Tool FR-6 in place.Quote:
Originally Posted by Flamewinger
Now, I'm understanding the issue better.
Why not use a breaker bar with the right sized socket on it? Or, as mentioned, slip some steel pipe over the socket wrench handle to provide additional leverage.
I still don't understand how you would use a wrecking bar to turn this nut...
:bbq::bbq:
The straight end of the bar goes in two opposite slots in the nut. Get something to use to apply torque to the bar. I don't know how else to explain it.Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahPete
Don't teach cursive in school now, and didn't teach countin' waaay back when I was larnin'.Quote:
Originally Posted by jcthorne
....first the pry bar trick is for those of us too cheap ( I mean frugal;)) to get the right tool....then when the Park tool is out of the way or not available,,Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahPete
just hold the flats of the pry bar in the slots of the retaining nut like GranPot says... helps if you hold your mouth right.. and use that big Crescent wrench
to twist whilst you hold down to keep the pry par ends engaged in the slots... Well on second thought probably you should just go buy the right tool and
the proper socket along with a 24" breaker bar and get after it:thumbup: but like others said, don't change it if you dont have to...
We have put over 40 K each (76, 44, 46, 40) on four different bikes, and always feel and spin the bearings when we change tires, and havent changed a bearing yet...I do have a set on the shelf waiting:)
NOW I get it. You use the pry bar INSTEAD OF the freewheel tool. That makes sense. As far as the OP goes, he DOES have the freewheel removal tool and just needs more leverage on its nut in order to break free the freewheel bearing retainer nut.Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroPilot
Would you care to share the model number of those bearings.Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroPilot
Thanks
Use the short arm of the wrecking bar. See post 12. Not the end he has a wrench on: the other end! Fits perfectly. Regular thread. I stand the wheel up, nut side on right, insert bar, push down.