Enclosed Trailering of Spyder RT/F3T

I've read through the numerous posting but still foggy as to what to consider when it comes to purchasing a trailer for hauling two spyders for extended distances. Basically the wife has her limits as to how far she can ride in one day and past a certain mileage it time to consider a trailer for the destination. Would like to pack both into a enclosed trailer and be assured they are not bouncing around in there and reasonably easy to load/unload once at the destination.

Who is doing this and what are your comments on the matter please? :chat:

thanks and everyone please have a wonderful 2019.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by h100250

I've read through the numerous posting but still foggy as to what to consider when it comes to purchasing a trailer for hauling two spyders for extended distances. Basically the wife has her limits as to how far she can ride in one day and past a certain mileage it time to consider a trailer for the destination. Would like to pack both into a enclosed trailer and be assured they are not bouncing around in there and reasonably easy to load/unload once at the destination.

Who is doing this and what are your comments on the matter please? :chat:

thanks and everyone please have a wonderful 2019.

---

Happy New Year to you also ……. There are lots of trailer choices and I'm sure many folks will help with that …..so I'll address something that is very important ( imho ) but isn't likely to be talked about ….. Securing the Spyder/s in the trailer - What will really work the Best ( High end professional car haulers use this method to secure ) is placing a Heavy Duty Ratchet Strap over one or more tires ( in line with the tread ) and securing it to the floor of the trailer. Doing it this way a) prevents damage to any parts of the Spyder … b) prevents the paint from being scratched … I highly recommend screwing 2x4's to the floor on either side of the where the front tires will be. This is the easiest way to make your Spyder go exactly where you want it to go, and not move sideways while travelling. Example - they do this is in all car washing machines to prevent the veh. from wandering as it's moved along. …. You can view procedure in an Album in my Bio page …. good luck ….. Mike :thumbup:

https://www.i39supply.com/enclosed_trailers.html
7X14' extended height, single axle V-nose about $4,000 at my local dealer.
RT pulls in forward 6" short of the v-nose front. My F3 Limited backs up the center of the ramp and when the front tire are about to enter the trailer I pitch the wheels to off set the RT and F3 tails.
1. Lots of room to walk around both rides and gear storage.
2. About 800 lbs of tongue weight when loaded and tracks very nice when towing.
3. Full size pick up mirrors work well for 7' width.
4. make sure any trailer has RADIAL tires as cheaper tires disappear in short order.
5. This brand has an extended tail flap and my RT easily clears the ramp angles even with a skid plate.
Good luck
Dennis

I would certainly not recommend a single axle trailer for hauling two Spyders. I have a 7x14 enclosed trailer duel axle. We haul the RT and a 700 Kodiak ATV at the same time. I do run radial trailer tires and they do squat quite a bit with both machines loaded. I believe your asking for problems IMO






I

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by duke50

I do run radial trailer tires and they do squat quite a bit with both machines loaded. I believe your asking for problems IMO

---

Sounds more like an issue of load range of tires, not the number of axels. A standard 7x14 enclosed trailer w/single 5000# to 7200# axel with an "E" load range 16" tire would hardly even flex w/two spyders loaded. Every tire on the ground reduces fuel mileage for one. Each axel along with wheels, tires, springs, brakes, etc. adds a lot of weight to the trailer.


h100250 - What are you going to pull the trailer with? What is the purpose and duration of your trips? Lots of other considerations besides just carrying spyders.

Regards,

Don

I haven't hauled more than one Spyder in a 7x14, but my method of E-track attached to the floor under each Spyder wheel with ratchet straps over the tires have worked well for securing the bike. You can find all the necessary components on Amazon and there are some E-track strap and chocks that attach to the track designed for this purpose.

:agree:

My enclosed trailer came with 15"wheels. The best tires available are 8 ply D rating for a 15" wheel. Bigger wheels not an option.
To get 16" wheels you would probably need an open trailer.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dondje

Sounds more like an issue of load range of tires, not the number of axels. A standard 7x14 enclosed trailer w/single 5000# to 7200# axel with an "E" load range 16" tire would hardly even flex w/two spyders loaded. Every tire on the ground reduces fuel mileage for one. Each axel along with wheels, tires, springs, brakes, etc. adds a lot of weight to the trailer.


h100250 - What are you going to pull the trailer with? What is the purpose and duration of your trips? Lots of other considerations besides just carrying spyders.

Regards,

Don

---

This is solid and dead on info.
If you're only going a few hundred miles per year what is the biggest job you need a trailer for. When you factor in that having one cycle ALL the way forward in front of the trailer axle puts that full load on the tow vehicle. Then having my second cycle balanced about directly over the trailer axle makes the TRUE trailer load for Two Spyder around 1,500 pounds. My radial tires show no signs of over loaded. The trailer tracks perfect at interstate speeds with one or two spyders. And most tow vehicles / TRUCKS have no problem with plus 1,000 lbs tongue weight.
The only reason I would upgrade to a two axle is if I needed it to perform a bigger hauling need like an automobile?
My last single axle #3500 trailer delivered 50,000 miles of service on just two sets of RADIAL tires and often times it was overloaded for business needs. When I bought my new trailer I got 1/2 of the original purchase price for my used trailer.
Dennis

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by duke50

My enclosed trailer came with 15"wheels. The best tires available are 8 ply D rating for a 15" wheel. Bigger wheels not an option.
To get 16" wheels you would probably need an open trailer.

---

If you are getting excessive bulging with (4) load range D tires and just (2) Spyders and trailer as a load, then I suggest to you that you have an issue with air pressure and/or quality of tires. “D” 15” tires typically run at about 60psi cold max. What are you running?
In addition to load rating, air pressure figures into the mix. Air pressure needs to be adjusted to the load condition.
Just like we run an extremely low psi on the Spyder because there is little weight, the air pressure on the trailer needs to be adjusted to the load – low when empty and higher as the load increases. There needs to be a correct contact patch with the road and a minimal sidewall flex to lower heat buildup and maintain sidewall integrity. Under extreme conditions, it is actually safer to bump the pressure over max psi than to have too much sidewall bulging. There is a margin of safety built into the max psi number and the tire will run cooler - even getting a lower hot psi than running with less cold psi and more sidewall flex.

Regards,

Don

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dondje

If you are getting excessive bulging with (4) load range D tires and just (2) Spyders and trailer as a load, then I suggest to you that you have an issue with air pressure and/or quality of tires. “D” 15” tires typically run at about 60psi cold max. What are you running?
In addition to load rating, air pressure figures into the mix. Air pressure needs to be adjusted to the load condition.
Just like we run an extremely low psi on the Spyder because there is little weight, the air pressure on the trailer needs to be adjusted to the load – low when empty and higher as the load increases. There needs to be a correct contact patch with the road and a minimal sidewall flex to lower heat buildup and maintain sidewall integrity. Under extreme conditions, it is actually safer to bump the pressure over max psi than to have too much sidewall bulging. There is a margin of safety built into the max psi number and the tire will run cooler - even getting a lower hot psi than running with less cold psi and more sidewall flex.

Regards,

Don

---

I'm not so sure about the tire PSI thing ….. from what I've read about trailer tires ( which seem to un-like auto tires ) is when the side wall states 60, 70, 80 or 90 psi ….that is what they should be run at no matter what weight you are carrying...…………. jmho …. Mike :thumbup:

This is such a wonderful thread about what the OP should consider for a trailer to tow his Spyders. Gosh, I wonder how much air he should put in the trailer's tires?

Tow vehicle is a 2018 Tundra which has the 4.30 gearing plenty for what I'm doing! When our destinations exceed over 600 miles in a day that is a bit much for the wife to deal with so to keep her happy the objective is to get there with a smile still intact and enjoy things. The old adage here 'Happy Wife' I think you know where I'm going with that! ;)

Good Point BlueKnight911 on strapping over the tires, I'll keep that in mind for the trailer I choose and thanks for tip. :f_spider:

I simply use "Spyder Clamps" and love them. Nothing easier, quicker, and more stable. Unfortunately they are very hard to come by. Yes, they are expensive.

On the subject of trailers, I would never consider a single axel trailer. I have had several tires go flat or ruined by road debris and was always able to continue driving on the remaining three (at a reduced speed) to where I could replace or repair. Never stranded day or night on the Freeway. Have you ever had to change a tire at night on the freeway? Think about that.

The tire pressure stamped on the side of the tire is the pressure to be used at Max Load. Max Gross weight and Max payload will also appear somewhere on the trailer. (Federal Law) If you have an accident and cause harm or physical damage to property if over these weights your insurance will be null and void. Something everyone buying or using a trailer should consider.

Jack

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911

I'm not so sure about the tire PSI thing ….. from what I've read about trailer tires ( which seem to un-like auto tires ) is when the side wall states 60, 70, 80 or 90 psi ….that is what they should be run at no matter what weight you are carrying...…………. jmho …. Mike :thumbup:

---

Mike…

I recall that thinking back in the bias ply days. The charts I see now for radials adjust psi to maintain a correct contact patch for tread wear and heat, and a low enough psi to not have the harshest of rides at low load.
I have (8) trailers and a tow dolly, the last purchased 15 years ago – car/hay hauler, horse, enclosed & open utility, and boat. My daughter has shown horses and competed in horse events for many years. So I put a lot of miles on the horse trailers especially, and try to run them as safe as possible for obvious reasons.

Regards,

Don

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dondje

Mike…

I recall that thinking back in the bias ply days. The charts I see now for radials adjust psi to maintain a correct contact patch for tread wear and heat, and a low enough psi to not have the harshest of rides at low load.
I have (8) trailers and a tow dolly, the last purchased 15 years ago – car/hay hauler, horse, enclosed & open utility, and boat. My daughter has shown horses and competed in horse events for many years. So I put a lot of miles on the horse trailers especially, and try to run them as safe as possible for obvious reasons.

Regards,

Don

---

My info probably isn't as up-to-date as yours is ….. so I'll defer to any better info ….. I wasn't trying to mis-lead anyone especially "WA5VHU " …… but I think his remark was intended to start a fight …. so I didn't comment any further :lecturef_smilie::roflblack:...….. Mike :thumbup:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WA5VHU

This is such a wonderful thread about what the OP should consider for a trailer to tow his Spyders. Gosh, I wonder how much air he should put in the trailer's tires?

---

Enough. He should put in enough.

And I thought the OP had asked about what SIZE of trailer he needed to look for to haul TWO Spyders, why all the bickering about tire size,PSI,strapping down etc. and just answer his question or leave it alone if you don't know for crying out loud.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by easysuper

And I thought the OP had asked about what SIZE of trailer he needed to look for to haul TWO Spyders, why all the bickering about tire size,PSI,strapping down etc. and just answer his question or leave it alone if you don't know for crying out loud.

---

Exactly ! ! !

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dennis in Lodi

https://www.i39supply.com/enclosed_trailers.html
7X14' extended height, single axle V-nose about $4,000 at my local dealer.
RT pulls in forward 6" short of the v-nose front. My F3 Limited backs up the center of the ramp and when the front tire are about to enter the trailer I pitch the wheels to off set the RT and F3 tails.
1. Lots of room to walk around both rides and gear storage.
2. About 800 lbs of tongue weight when loaded and tracks very nice when towing.
3. Full size pick up mirrors work well for 7' width.
4. make sure any trailer has RADIAL tires as cheaper tires disappear in short order.
5. This brand has an extended tail flap and my RT easily clears the ramp angles even with a skid plate.
Good luck
Dennis

---

:clap::2thumbs:
Thanks Dennis, I think you answered the OP's question wonderfully! And I've been to their website (mere hours from me).

This is what I borrowed from my good friend.