If you are considering - BLEEDING the brakes

With the assistance of my son I just finished this chore ..... I followed the advice given by some of the folks here .It went pretty smoothly and I didn't get any Bubbles to deal with ..... I started by re-moving the front wheels ( so much easier this way )... I cleaned the reservoirs - removed the caps , noting which way the arrows were pointing, on the rear reservoir I was able to extract most of the fluid with a Kitchen BASTER .... The front one wasn't possible because of the float inside ..... the rear Resv. is for the front brakes the front is for the rear ( thanks BRP for that logic :roflblack: ) ..... Left front first, then did the open valve .. pump and hold ...close valve ... about 8 times ...then added some fluid to prevent bubbles ...repeated this until the fluid became much clearer ( that means you've completed an exchange for that line with NEW fluid ..... then did the same on the right front brake etc.... then did the rear ..... I had been procrastinating about this job because I'm so used to doing everything by myself - alone :banghead: .... But my son was willing ..... I had 41,000 miles on this fluid and the rear resv. wasn't much dis-colored, the front was more so but not BLACK like some have reported .... there is now a better pedal feel than before but not hugh ....... Until I tried a full-blown PANIC type stop ....:yikes::yikes::yikes: .... I almost hit the windshield with my puss :roflblack: ...... I'll have to remember that, emergency stopping will be majorly effected .......... good luck if you try it ..... PS I only used about 10oz for the job ......Mike :thumbup:.....PPS I won't need a BUDS reset..PPPS, I did not do what " PMK " does with His brakes ..( see post #7 )( His bleed & flush is the BEST way it can be done :thumbup: ).....Because of what I've read here the 5% ( or less) that didn't get flushed because I didn't do the ABS is my decision based on time and effort to accomplish that ..... I'm not worried about the very slight difference ..... jmho .....Mike :thumbup:

With help it took you about how long? In hours not beers please, as I do not drink :cheers:



ps:not implying anything, just trying to avoid a "bout 1/2 a case answer":p

When Thanksgiving comes, remember which baster is for the Turkey and which one you used for the brakes. :shocked: Thanks for the info Mike.

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Originally Posted by Bfromla

With help it took you about how long? In hours not beers please, as I do not drink :cheers:



ps:not implying anything, just trying to avoid a "bout 1/2 a case answer":p

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35 to 40 mins....... I do have TWO scissor jacks that I've adapted to " Using with a power drill ", also can use a drill for wheel re-moval and re-placement .... This is a time saver..... Mike :thumbup:

Have the same mileage , more or less , clean fluid but hardly use the brakes anyway. Just pulled the front calipers and checked the pads... still good . Did do the rears at 33,000 and they had meat left on them. Now that I see you pulled it off I'm inspired to do the full flush...:bowdown: Now the clutch is another story...:banghead: easy to do but gets a lot of use...

You are so timely,it's uncanny. I am doing the front brakes pads in the morning+ bleeding. Thanks Mike for the confidence boost.

Our 14 RTS, I had done a flush and bleed at the recommended two year interval. The oem fluid was really black that came out. With new fluid and vacuum bleed, followed by final pump bleed the pedal has better feel and the brakes worked more directly.

Ours is due again, actually slighly past due for the two year interval, good chance it may get done this weekend along with the oil change.

One thing I did not see mentioned was bleeding the ABS control module. Not the BUDS format, but rather there is a bleeder fitting on the ABS module that is supposed to be bled also.

Pretty certain I flushed the entire system, left frt, right frt, rear, then flushed ABS module, left frt, right front, rear. These were done via vacuum bleeder. Then did pump and release a couple times at each bleeder fitting for a final to remove any possible air, that was done as ABS, left frt, right frt, rear. Then top off the reservoirs.

I had setup and planned to degas the brake fluid prior to use, but found my brake fluid of choice had no micro bubbles when tested. Micro bubbles can be within the fluid but not seen and often create a less than ideal pedal feel. Best to degas the fluid if possible.

What brand of fluid was used? Did you have. to remove the parking brake to get to the valve on rear?

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Originally Posted by happyspyder2039

What brand of fluid was used? Did you have. to remove the parking brake to get to the valve on rear?

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I think it was Prestone ? …. But brand doesn't matter as long as it's DOT 4 ( for Brembo brake system ) ….. I didn't have to remove the parking brake …. If you don't have a 14 or newer the above info may need to be adjusted to fit your year Spyder ….. Mike :ohyea:

No pumping for me. I use a automotive mighty vac. Works great and takes lest than 30 minutes.

The way you did this job is fine but there a several schools of thought on the subject of brake bleeding for maintainance purposes.I am relating what I have been told at brake service seminars which I went to during my 30 years of repair shop ownership.Modern cars have ABS control valves that cycle back and forth and they create some metallic dust,mostly copper.This dust or sludge can discolor the fluid and usually finds its way to an area where there is low fluid turbulence and doesn't cause much trouble.Changing the fluid is great but if you disturb this sludge you may cause more problems than you had to begin with.Another safer way is to do small but more frequent fluid changes.What you do is get a new clean turkey baster and the correct brake fluid for your vehicle whatever it may be.Take the master cylinder cap off and suck as much fluid out slowly and carefully as you can from the frt and rear chambers.If there is a float blocking your way try to slip past it even if you have to put a skinny tube along side the float.Then pour fresh fluid back in to the safe line or other mark for fluid level that they may have.Do not use the baster to refill,it is contaminated from the old fluid.Close it up and drive,as you use the brakes the new fluid will be diluted by the old fluid.If you do this once a year you will have nice clean fluid and it keeps moisture content low so you dont get corrosion on any internal surfaces.

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Originally Posted by spyder01

The way you did this job is fine but there a several schools of thought on the subject of brake bleeding for maintainance purposes.I am relating what I have been told at brake service seminars which I went to during my 30 years of repair shop ownership.Modern cars have ABS control valves that cycle back and forth and they create some metallic dust,mostly copper.This dust or sludge can discolor the fluid and usually finds its way to an area where there is low fluid turbulence and doesn't cause much trouble.Changing the fluid is great but if you disturb this sludge you may cause more problems than you had to begin with.Another safer way is to do small but more frequent fluid changes.What you do is get a new clean turkey baster and the correct brake fluid for your vehicle whatever it may be.Take the master cylinder cap off and suck as much fluid out slowly and carefully as you can from the frt and rear chambers.If there is a float blocking your way try to slip past it even if you have to put a skinny tube along side the float.Then pour fresh fluid back in to the safe line or other mark for fluid level that they may have.Do not use the baster to refill,it is contaminated from the old fluid.Close it up and drive,as you use the brakes the new fluid will be diluted by the old fluid.If you do this once a year you will have nice clean fluid and it keeps moisture content low so you dont get corrosion on any internal surfaces.

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Service interval per the manuals is fluid flush and bleed each 24 months. Years ago now, I posted about accomplishing the flush and bleed. Very easy to accomplish on the Spyder. I flushed all 4 bleeders using the vacuum bleeder. Did the vacuum flush twice per bleeder. Once flushed and initially bled, accomplished a final bleed via pumping tne pedal and releasing the fluid. Beleive I did this twice per bleeder to ensure no entrapped air.

Regarding the fluid, I used high quality DOT4 from Pentisone and degassed the fluid before using.

The fluid that was removed, it had been ridden for 23 months since new from the factory and came out black, not even close to golden clear. The photos may be here, but certainly are on Finless Bobs FB group.

Tried using a kitchen Baster w no luck. Fluid would just run back in. This is so much easier with vacuum pump.(borrowed from autozone)Sucked most of the fluid out of both reservoirs and refilled with new.

I have a one-way valve for the vacuum bleeder, lets fluid out but no air in. I love easy. Oh, and aren't all master cylinders front bowl = rear and rear bowl = front brakes?

If you're a DIY'er?

Here's a great little tool that works flawlessly and allows it to be a one person job.

Magnet & check valve version.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1