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I just finished changing the oil in my 2012 RS SM5. I changed the oil tank drain to a magnetic type and changed th crankcase to a valve that lets me attach a hose to the valve and then opening it up. The valve is a spring loaded ball valve and is very sturdy. I'll still have to remove the panels, but now I don't have to jack it up or use ramps to do an oil change. Here it is:
I just did my first oil change on my 2010 rs se5 yesterday. I didn't jack it up but I did cus the hell out if the previous owner after bending 2 Allen wrenches trying to take out the drain plugs.
I like the idea of the valve.. and may look at that for my next oil change. I already decided to swap out those Allen drain plugs.
Plus after reading a bunch of threads. I'm gonna use the full synthetic instead of the dealer suggested semi.
Phil
Bakersfield
Nice, i used to use those on my cars back in the day. Never leaked, made changes MUCH cleaner with the hose to the pan.
I used a valve like that on my ATV and though it was out of harms way. :banghead: Somehow something hit it and it leaked. I have the same Valve installed on my Riding mower and never had a problem. My 2. :thumbup:
Congrats...:clap: next one will be a breeze. Looks like a nice set up...:thumbup: it may just be me but I don't see a crush washer on the valve you installed. May be it doesn't need one or I just can't see it....
Thanks for your post. I had not seen an EZ oil change plug that you used on your spyder before I read your post. I'm going to look into it before I change the oil again on my 2009 RS.
I have used a Fumoto oil drain valve on my Chevy Duramax for the past 10 years. I haven’t replaced my Spyders drain valves with these. I like the Goldplugs.
There is an O ring on the valve body and the directions saw to turn 1/8 after seating by hand, I had to turn it a little more to get it in the right spot. nothing hangs out below the plastic si I;m not real concerned about it getting knocked off, I'm trying to find a plastic or nylon pug to go in it to keep the dirrt out.ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Chupaca
It takes a little fiddlin to get it in right and I had to trim the bottom plastic panel to get it to bolt back on, but I'm convinced it will be much easier to change oil. I'm also going to put one on my Ram 3500. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by drhunt204
You're right its a PIA to get the Allen head drain bolt out of the crankcase, I used Castrol 4 5W40 full synthetic, got a good deal for 6qts. on Amazon. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Philrs